ATF6700FE2 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

With breakdown maual, I diassembled the door and reinstalled the glass and rehung the door and closed it. Turned on the machine and the bottom of the glass does not meet the rubber seal on the washer opening.

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

I removed the front access cover and the rear cover. It was also necessary to remove the water level sensor (attached to the tub drain hose) to access one of the shocks. Not having a 1/2" deep socket, I used a 2" piece of 1/2" copper pipe to depress the locking tab on the shock attachment pins--worked great. Pulled the pins out with pliers. Putting the pins back in after replacing the shocks was easiest to do using 'channel-lock' pliers to grab the bracket and the pin head and squeeze in the pin. The only problem was that my copper pipe piece fell into the drain hose when removing one of the pins! Had to take the drain hose loose to fish it out.

The video was most helpful, and the left shock replacement went as shown. The sucker punch was getting to the right shock - much harder.
First notice video has washer on a stand. How nice to have had it up on a table. LOL As it was I tilted the machine back with a 6 inch block under the front. Still a bear to get to the shock, but w/ patience, doable even though you are flat out on the floor.
The old shocks were so bad that the pistons fell out once it was removed.
It takes some strength to get the pins through the new shocks, and as I have a weak left hand I had to resort to using a C-clamp to help. If I could have gotten my right hand in there I may not have needed it. Right hand did have to hold the clamp as it had to just catch the side of the pin hole since the pin is pointed and sticks out past the mounting bracket when seated.
I also ordered a spring but they both were still good.

The instructions that come with parts say to pull pins out with pliers. not much room to do that. I used hammers and punches where I had access and prybars nail puller an hammer to offset where the water outlet was in the way. I used a short handle hammer to install three of the pins. The third I used a prybar and spacer blocks.

Replaced drain pump using this walk through. Different models, but pretty straight forward.

The parts came with instructions They stated to remove the front panel. This only gets to one side for a difficult repair. I removed the back panel then it was a snap. Easiest with two people.

I just pushed the washer on its side on a price of wood. I put a pan to catch the drain water.It was then as easy as detaching two boots and two bolts that hold the drain motor on.Do it in reverse and you got it.Oh first don't forget to unplug the electrical wires ect.

removed front panel and used deep socket to remove pins that hold shocks. front left shock took most of the time because of hoses and a unit in the back that needed to be released to be able to remove the pin on the bottom. the right shock was a piece of cake to replace. used a hammer to pull the pins into place (i did not use it to tap on them ) . lots of bloddy fingers from sharp edges.

I replaced both shocks, as both shocks were broken! Keep in mind that Parts select packages them in pairs. I order 2 packages or 4 shocks, guess I have another pair for ~ 5 years from now. These are located under the front bottom panel, so no need to isolate water lines or even pull this sucker away from the wall. Tight clearances are the only factor from making this really easy. Use some Vaseline to assist inserting the new plastic pins.

Remove top of washer, remove door lock assembly,install new assembly replace top.

As others have mentioned, it was pretty straight forward although a bit finicky to get into the tight spots to press out the pins. The little piece of 1x4 block helped press the pins back in. For the right side shock, I had to undo the large rubber hose at the bottom of the drum and also had to remove the sheet metal shield in the back to allow clearance for the pin to come out. There's only 2 screws holding it in so again, not too hard to do.

Removed front panel, used socket to compress lock tab on plastic pins holding shocks. Still taks a little effort to get them out. The one behind a plastic drain canister is a proble as there doesn't seem to be a good method for moving that canister. I think that's why the spare pin is provided.

Sadly, my case was one of the lower percentage where the problem is in the rear bearing area. The shocks were, the top support springs were good but the rear of the washer drum was shot. Opted to replace with new washer rather than go through the much longer repair with the almost $300 in parts.

First I removed the two screws that hold the part in place. I then pulled the part out about 3 inches and disconnected the three wires from the part and put the new one in

replaced the two shocks with the new ones by removing the pins that held the old ones in place.