BLTF2940ES3 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

Took door lock switch out and fished out broken part. Reinstalled switch and installed new striker. Problem solved. Ordered extra striker just in case.

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

love parts select have used them several times for parts great company

Very basic replacement- 2 screws in and out. The part did not come with screws to be sure to save them if you remove the broken part ahead of time to make the process smoother.

Remove top of washer, remove door lock assembly,install new assembly replace top.

Remove screws take off striker .Put striker back on with screws back on

Tighten screws. Took 5 minutes

replaced the two shocks with the new ones by removing the pins that held the old ones in place.

Removed old shock abs. (both sides). The one side, I had to remove the speed control board to access the lower nut on the one shock. Install was fairly easy however, it did not fix the washer. Apparently there was something else (either a switch, the control board or the motor) needs replaced too.

My shocks on the washer were broken, in part because of age, the other is broken spider drum inside the barrel. Was very easy to do the shocks. Unhook water connections and power. Move washer away from the wall. Remove the back cover from the washer. On the left side, you have to remove two screws from the electronics control box so you can gently move it out of the way. Then grab the plastic pin with some pliers and pull while depressing the locking lug on the end of the pin (Very important to depress the lock or you will have to buy new pins) Remove both pins for each shock. I used some high pressure grease on the pins when I put it all back together. Was a quick fix. Unfortunately had to take it all back apart as this was only a small part of my issue with having the stainless drum being broken inside.

First I removed the two screws that hold the part in place. I then pulled the part out about 3 inches and disconnected the three wires from the part and put the new one in

I removed the front access cover and the rear cover. It was also necessary to remove the water level sensor (attached to the tub drain hose) to access one of the shocks. Not having a 1/2" deep socket, I used a 2" piece of 1/2" copper pipe to depress the locking tab on the shock attachment pins--worked great. Pulled the pins out with pliers. Putting the pins back in after replacing the shocks was easiest to do using 'channel-lock' pliers to grab the bracket and the pin head and squeeze in the pin. The only problem was that my copper pipe piece fell into the drain hose when removing one of the pins! Had to take the drain hose loose to fish it out.

Replaced drain pump using this walk through. Different models, but pretty straight forward.