FWY833KCS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

released hold down clips on top and removed two screws at the bottom of the front panel and firmly pushed down on the panel to release it exposing the motor drive assembly and idler tension pulley i released tension on the drive belt removed the pulley from the assembly replaced it with the new pulley including the pressure washer which keeps the pulley stable realigned the belt and replaced the front cover and closed the top. done.

Good

I used a flat-head screw driver to lift the main lid up off the washer to get to the washer lid safety switch..Unplug the plug from the electrical outlet. Removed the 4 wires from the switch, and removed 2 screws to remove the old switch..Then install the new safety switch in reverse order.

Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cover and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.

Had to take the front and back panel off the washer. A couple of clamps and electrical plug in came off and then the motor. Put the new motor on plugged it back in and put on the clamps put the panels back on and was able to wash a load of clothes. It is now quiet and spins the clothes out as if it was brand new.

Pulled off back panel and found that the Drain pump had some how came loose, so I found screws and tried but still wouldn't work check pump for blockage couldn't find and but could hear the pump hum so figured the pump went bad. the hardest part was getting the squeeze type clamps off or it would have been a 30 minute job. I orederd new part and it came fed ex next day and put in and changed the bellows clamp to worm gear and made it a lot easier going in. Started washer and ran just like it was supposed to.

Old part cracked

This is complicated repair. It requires removing the dryer unit to get access to the water valve. The repair requires 2 people. One to help stabilize the dryer in the removal process and also to hold the dryer on top of the washer once it has been taken loose. The other person does the actual repair. None of the online techs had a clue on how to do this repair. So this was a learn as you go event. First completely disconnect the unit and move it so you have access clear around the unit, as you will need to be able to get on all 4 sides. Now as you face the unit remove the angled cover panel between the dryer and washer. Behind the cover panel is another panel for rigidity, remove it. Slide your hand down the inside of dryer cover panel on the left side. This will also require a flashlight to see what you're doing. Find the 3 hex headed screws that hold the left side on on the washer. DONOT CONFUSE THESE WITH THE SCREWS ON THE OUTSIDE THAT ARE EASY TO GET TO!! There is one at the rear, then one at the center, and one right up against the edge of the front. The one at the front is almost impossible to get at. Remove the front one FIRST. ALSO LOCATE THE 2 EXTRA HOLES BY THE FRONT SCREW BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE SCREW. Cause when you get ready for the reinstall those 2 holes are an issue. If you wait to remove the front last, the dryer unit is no longer stable and it will BITE you. Now go to the right side and repeat the process. Make sure your helper has a good grip on the dryer! Remove the 2 external screws at the rear where they hold the L bracket on, one on each side. Now the 2 of you pick up the dryer and sit it on the washer. There is just enough slack in the lines, wires to accomplish this without having to disconnect any of them. Replace the water valve, this part is a no brainer. Now for the reassembly. Sit dryer back in its proper place on the washer, have your helper hold it securely. Line up the holes. Install BUT DONOT TIGHTEN the rear and center screw on each side. Now attempt to install the front screws. Make sure you get them in their correct holes, the 2 spare holes are not threaded and larger all they do is grab your screw and make you fight to get it back, which can be done. Attach the 2 external screws on the rear. Tighten all the screws now. Reinstall the structure panel on the front, and then the cover panel. Hook up unit and you're done

This is a front loader and the video I saw was a top loader. I removed the oval shaped centerpiece off the back to reach the pump. I also removed the filter and cleaned it, I used screw type hoseclamp in place of the tension spring for easier assembly due to the cramped space. This helped the drain problem as did cleaning the filter. The no spin problem persisted and I ordered the door lock part. This part fixed the no spin problem.

Firs things first - get as much water out of the basin as possible using a siphon or a container and a sponge. Have towels ready for inevitable spillage. Dispose of water in a toilet. Remove the front panel of the washer. The pump is attached with 2 screws/nuts. Remove the pump and place in an empty bucket. Then remove the hose clamps from the washer inside the bucket to catch any water left in the hoses. Attach the new pump to the washer. Then attach the hoses to the new pump. Replacement is very fast and easy - total time from setup to testing, to cleanup 1.5 hours.

The swap out difficulty is in getting to the part as a beginner handy man this was a challenge. You may need a second person to make things easy. Another to screw the part from the outside while you hold the part from the inside. However, the real problem was so simple I could kick myself. The COLD WATER PRESSURE WAS TOO STRONG. I simply turned down the cold water pressure some and the washer goes through all it's cycles. I really hope this helps someone else out there before they go buying parts or even a new machine. I did hours of internet research and I didn't come across this simple answer. I changed an electric water valve and a temperature switch before realizing it.

This appliance is being used in a third world country with no parts access. I discovered Partselect and easily found the schematic with parts listed. Needed parts were easily identified ordered online and received within 4 days in the US and in time to take on my day later flight outbound. The process was seamless and expeditious. Thank you Partselect!

remove everything per your installation sheets which were right on ,everything when great. thank you .The only thing i had a problem with was ordering your bolts. The order list was not clear on how many bolts you get when you order. It did not say per screw I order 1, thinking it was the set of 5 but it was 1. ps460201 also bolts #ps3655064 i order 1 but there two Please let everyone know that .Again thank you great instruction Gary

replaced it with the new one

Removal was relatively simple, and pretty self explanitory as per the instuctions on the website, except for having to actually take sandpaper to the agitator shaft to remove the rust build up from many years of use.After getting the rust off, made it easier to remove the seal housing. Removed and cleaned the seal area and replace with the new seals. Everything went pretty well. Put in the new belt tensioner pulley and replace the covers. Ran the machine at medium load cycle. No leaks, no noise from the pulley. Runs like a new machine. The lady was really pleased with the results.