GLTR1670FS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

There were only two screws that held the door strike/catch in place. I had to fish out the broken plastic piece with a pair of hemostats. The only difficult part about changing the new piece was that I had to find someone with the correct screwdriver to use since it was not a standara screwdriver. Luckily I live next door to a mechanic and borrowed his. The two screws came off easilty and I was able to replace it in 2 minutes. I was thrilled that the part that I ordered arrived the next day.

The leveling legs on my Frigidaire stackable washer & dryer were broken. They are made of plastic and while moving the unit one of the legs had broke off. I ordered two replacements from PartSelect and received them within a few days. The old legs were removed by screwing them out and then the new ones were installed. Pretty easy installation for DIY. The new legs work great.

It was very easy. I simply unscrewed the 2 screws set the new latch into place and replaced the screws.

Removed old knob and tension band from shaft. Pushed new knob into place

Thank you for this web site! A friend suggested the problem being the drain pump, but I was not convinced as the washer would still drain on certain cycles. I took the chance and ordered the part after reading like stories on this website. For the repair: don't forget to lay towels down or have a shop vac ready to collect the water in the lines! The clamps were somewhat difficult to manage as the space is tight, but I did get them off with a medium size adjustable wrench. Getting them back on was a bit more difficult; I gave up on one and put a new o clamp on. It's metal, so I'm sure I would have been better off using the plastic-coated factory clamps.

I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

With the help of PartSelect's diagnosting tool it was easy to find the right part. The part arrived very fast and the installation was "child's play" by following PartSelect's video. I must have saved > $100. Thank You very much. -Anna-

Removed the back and lower panel in the front of machine. Turned it on its side to replace spring, not tools required. Then stood it up and replaced both shocks by removing plastic pins that hold them in place, no tools required. The only time you need tools is to remove the metal panels to get to the parts. Now it makes no noise and runs like a new washer. Paid $140 for the parts, a new machine would have cost over a thousand and would be one of those digital nightmares that don't last as long. This machine is 18 years old.

I watched the videos and replaced the shocks and suspension springs. This worked to stop the unit bouncing completely and cut the banging noise in half. Further diagnosis revealed a damaged drum and outer shell. The repair itself was very simple and didn't require special tools or skills. There is a tricky shock absorber locking pin on the right shock bottom position. There is a control box of some sort that prevents the complete removal of the pin without breaking it. On install, I simply pushed the pin through from the front. Ultimately, I ended up replacing the unit. However, I found the site to be extremely helpful. Great service.

Simple install, remove the two screws holding the pump motor.
Loosen the two hose clamps that hold the hoses in place.
Pull out old pump motor.
Place new pump into place, and install mounting screws and tighten.
Slip drain hoses onto new pump and reinstall clamps.
Check for leaks.
Done.

It was very good. They should have mentioned about the wire and spring to remove the rubber strip though. Found out about that in comments! Otherwise, very good!

the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.

The hardest part was moving the stacked washer/dryer from the alcove. I found the instruction videos from this site accurate and helpful.

After disconnecting the water/gas/electrical connections:
Shock Absorbers:
-Remove front service panel
-Squeeze lock tab on shock absorber pins and gently tap out of sockets
(inserting a small screw driver kept tab depressed when starting)
(lower left is pretty easy due to clear access)
(right side is more difficult)
-Optional: remove drain boot on lower right to improve access
(squeeze spring clamp and wiggle off of connection then work boot off of nipple)
(I did this step but in the end discovered it was not necessary, as I ended up taking the back panel off of the washer to replace the belt)
-Position new shock absorber in mounting brackets
-Manually extend shock absorbers to line up with pin holes
-Tap pins into place
(For lower right, the pin was captured by the circuit board enclosure. I was able to remove it but ended up removing the two mounting screws for the enclosure to reinstall the lower shock absorber pin)
-Reinstall drain boot & spring clamp
-Replace front service panel

Drive belt:
-Remove back panel of washer (multiple phillips head screws around perimeter)
-Remove old belt by pulling toward you and rotating drum
-Position new belt on motor pulley
-Position new belt on drum pulley
-Zip tie new belt to drum pulley to keep it engaged as you rotate the drum
(new belt will likely be much tighter than old belt)
-With belt installed on both pulleys, clip zip tie
-Rotate drum multiple times to ensure belt is centered and tracking properly
(if needed, the belt can be manipulated in/out while rotating drum to ensure engagement on drive (motor) pulley)
-Replace back panel
-Put unit back in service

Watched the video on website and followed what they said. Worked great.

I started by removing the two screws at the back of the washer and taking the top off of the washing machine. Than I removed the two screws securing the door lok and switch assembly. I disconected the two or three electrical connections and install the new one in the reverse order.