ATF6500FG0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Easy fix for a verry poor designed door catch. Almost purposeful on the manafactures behalf to make it out of cheap plastic Remove 2 screws replace install 2 screws

It was very good. They should have mentioned about the wire and spring to remove the rubber strip though. Found out about that in comments! Otherwise, very good!

well i took the dryer off the top took, the 6 screws out that keep the top then took the soap tray out super easy then there was like 5 screws that keep the controls of the washer because the control board is behind it then just did on wire plug at a time the wires are long enuff thank god you do have to move some light things just some clear things but is so super easy the thing that the knob goes on is kind hard to get off but I just pushed it out from the back and thats it done less than 15 min and i took the dryer off the top and put it back on alone super easy anyone could do it cakes and pies

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

Took door lock switch out and fished out broken part. Reinstalled switch and installed new striker. Problem solved. Ordered extra striker just in case.

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

With breakdown maual, I diassembled the door and reinstalled the glass and rehung the door and closed it. Turned on the machine and the bottom of the glass does not meet the rubber seal on the washer opening.

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

Remove front panel to expose shocks. It took some time to remove the old shocks, both were broken. The pins were somewhat difficult to reach and remove, especially the one on right for it was shoved up against the electric wiring box. We ended up putting that pin in backwards for the new shock because it was impossible to reach from rear. Putting the new shocks was easy it was removing the old ones that took most of the time. The washing machine is working perfectly now.

I just pushed the washer on its side on a price of wood. I put a pan to catch the drain water.It was then as easy as detaching two boots and two bolts that hold the drain motor on.Do it in reverse and you got it.Oh first don't forget to unplug the electrical wires ect.

removed front panel and used deep socket to remove pins that hold shocks. front left shock took most of the time because of hoses and a unit in the back that needed to be released to be able to remove the pin on the bottom. the right shock was a piece of cake to replace. used a hammer to pull the pins into place (i did not use it to tap on them ) . lots of bloddy fingers from sharp edges.

I replaced both shocks, as both shocks were broken! Keep in mind that Parts select packages them in pairs. I order 2 packages or 4 shocks, guess I have another pair for ~ 5 years from now. These are located under the front bottom panel, so no need to isolate water lines or even pull this sucker away from the wall. Tight clearances are the only factor from making this really easy. Use some Vaseline to assist inserting the new plastic pins.

The video was most helpful, and the left shock replacement went as shown. The sucker punch was getting to the right shock - much harder.
First notice video has washer on a stand. How nice to have had it up on a table. LOL As it was I tilted the machine back with a 6 inch block under the front. Still a bear to get to the shock, but w/ patience, doable even though you are flat out on the floor.
The old shocks were so bad that the pistons fell out once it was removed.
It takes some strength to get the pins through the new shocks, and as I have a weak left hand I had to resort to using a C-clamp to help. If I could have gotten my right hand in there I may not have needed it. Right hand did have to hold the clamp as it had to just catch the side of the pin hole since the pin is pointed and sticks out past the mounting bracket when seated.
I also ordered a spring but they both were still good.

The instructions that come with parts say to pull pins out with pliers. not much room to do that. I used hammers and punches where I had access and prybars nail puller an hammer to offset where the water outlet was in the way. I used a short handle hammer to install three of the pins. The third I used a prybar and spacer blocks.