LA450AXH3 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

I used a flat-head screw driver to lift the main lid up off the washer to get to the washer lid safety switch..Unplug the plug from the electrical outlet. Removed the 4 wires from the switch, and removed 2 screws to remove the old switch..Then install the new safety switch in reverse order.

Watched the handy-dandy video, removed the defective part, waited for delivery, installed the new part and was back washing another load (minus the wet floor) in less than 10 minutes! Just one catch, I am a 56yo female with nominal hand strength, so technically, I had to recruit the help of a (stronger) person to tighten-up those self-tapping screws. I didn't feel so weak when I noticed that he had some difficulty as well. LOL! Ladies, don't be shy asking for help-I even tried the power drill with no success. Excellent video! Aside from the self-tapping screws, my grand-daughter could have managed this repair!

The drive block spline was loose in the Agitator, for the now block to fit tight enough to stay in place while reassembly of the Agitator, ( keep falling out) the old block had to be driven out. Had to design a wire tool to hold the block in place until the Agitator could be fitted over the shaft and seated tight on the shaft drive, then pulled the wire out. Wasn't the most easy task to do and sure took more than 5 min. to install.

lifed the lid .remove oud hose and replaced with new hose

Used a metal cooking spoon to pry open the lid, held it in place with a chain (mentioned in the tools required) and used needlenose pliers to remove the clamp on the old hose assmbly. Transferd that clamp to the new hose assembly and replace the (1) screw holding it in place. Closed the lid of the washer, and now it is like the problm had never existed. (Very easy fix, 1 of 10 on difficulty scale).

UNPLUG APPLIANCE....very simple installation. Raise THE top and the switch is in the corner. Unplug the wiring harness and remove the 2 screws that hold the lid lock on. Reverse the procedure and replace the lid lock.

removed front cover pushed in tensioner by hand walked belt off pulleys tilted belt removed lock ring pulled tensioner off noticed right rear lower tub brace broke at spot weods drilled out spot welds nut and bolted rear brace put springs back on base and installed belt works like new and saved myself from replacing lower washer tub frame so 70.00 and she up and running again

The longest part was cleaning and taking the washer apart , the screws were rusted to the bottom of the washer front,had to spray and pound on screws to get them out.after cleaning dirt and rust in the washer I greased the idle pulley.Putting on the belt was a snap.I also had to repair a leg screw that keeps the washer level, Washer runs like a new washer. very Pleased with the results. Its like having an old washer restored to new. it looks and sounds like a new washer.It took less then 5 mins to change the lid strike.

The original inlet valve comes in from the rear and the replacement inlet valve mounts horizontally and this will not allow the use of the valve mounting plate and I needed to make a new plate so the supply hose could mount. After making the new plate and having the supply hose attach vertically, the system appears to be functioning properly. Having to make a new mounting plate was an unexpected adventure!

remove everything per your installation sheets which were right on ,everything when great. thank you .The only thing i had a problem with was ordering your bolts. The order list was not clear on how many bolts you get when you order. It did not say per screw I order 1, thinking it was the set of 5 but it was 1. ps460201 also bolts #ps3655064 i order 1 but there two Please let everyone know that .Again thank you great instruction Gary

Removal was relatively simple, and pretty self explanitory as per the instuctions on the website, except for having to actually take sandpaper to the agitator shaft to remove the rust build up from many years of use.After getting the rust off, made it easier to remove the seal housing. Removed and cleaned the seal area and replace with the new seals. Everything went pretty well. Put in the new belt tensioner pulley and replace the covers. Ran the machine at medium load cycle. No leaks, no noise from the pulley. Runs like a new machine. The lady was really pleased with the results.

For the washer/Dryer combo, replacing water valve was easy, first you need to remove washer front panel and top lid, make sure that washer electrical is unplugged, turn off gas, turn off water valves.remove 1-screw holding water valve. reaching from top and using pliers remove retention clip holding hose. remove old water valve, there are two electrical connections for cold and hot water valves, make sure you mark them, remove them from old water valve. insert new water valve, connect hose and make sure that retaining clip is connected correctly.connect electrical wires. screw water valve into place from rear of washer. connect water hoses. before connecting panel and lid, turn on water valves and observe if there is any water leaks.

Took off back of washer. Control panel and top. Disconnected hot and cold water inlet hose. Pulled offwire leads. Unscrewed valve from washer. installed new valve. Reconnected wire leads. connected hoses. put top back on. put back of washer and control panel back on. Reconnected water. Done. Nothing too difficult. just a little time consuming. Space was an small issue in the laundry room.

my husband took off all the parts and put the new ones on in about 45 min only to find that the motor was burned out and the motor is discontinued but all the other parts are available!!!!!!!

It was easy. No problem getting the to v-belt.