FWX433RBT5 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

i took the hose of and stuck the water hose in it and saw a lin hole leak. i order a new hose and recived it very fast (1 day) took 15 min to put it on the pump and to put the machine back togther

Fairly easy repair to replace the discharge pump assembly. Remove the access door, pump shield, disconnected the hoses, remove the hoses, and the pump housing screws. Orientation of the water pump had to be changed to match original, easily done by rotating the pump hosing. Installed in reverse order and job was complete

Part came in, fast delivery. Took 10 minutes to install. Real easy works great.
Thanks PartSelect.

This is the third time it has been replaced. They last about 2-3 years. Made sure pump was full of water before starting etc so we didn't start with a "dry" pump.

The actual repair and parts ordering went just fine.

Scotty

Replacing the pump assembly only involved:
1. Unplugging the washing machine!
2. Removing 2 screws to take off the washing machine's lower front panel.
3. Removing 2 bolts to take off the cover over the remote pump assembly.
4. Changing out the pumps required:
A. Unscrewing the 2 screws that secure the assembly harness to the washing machine's base.
B. Unclasping the 2 tubes using curved jaw pliers.
C. Disconnecting the electrical connectors by hand.
D. Removing 2 bolts from the assembly harness and the pump assembly.
5. Reverse steps 1 - 4 to install the new pump.

disconneted power removed two screws removed led the front clamp removed quiet hose remplace for new

Remove old pump, only a scrwedriver needed.
Save myself @ $100

Pulled out the machine. Disconnected water lines. Removed four screws attaching the top brackets. In rear of top panel. Slid top panel forward and clear of valve. Removed two wire harnesses. Removed two screws holding valve to the back panel. Pulled valve down and out. Removed outlet side line spring clamp with channel lock pliers and pulled hose off old valve. Installed outlet side hose and spring clamp onto new valve. Placed valve up into place and installed two screws. Installed two wiring harnesses. Replaced top lid. Replaced lid bracket screws. Re-attached water hoses and pushed the machine back into place.

Removed two screws that held top of washer in place. removed top of washer. Removed two screws that held water inlet alve in place. Removed clamp and outlet hose from old inlet valve.












































































Removed two screws hold wash machine cover in place. Removed cover. Unscrewed cold and hot water supply lines from old inlet valve. Removed two screws holding inlet valve in place. Removed clamp and hose from inlet outlet hose. Replaced inew inlet in reverse order.

my husband did the work he can fix anything.i watched he explained what he was doing and how he was getting it done.it did"nt take long at all.the biggest problem was setting the belt tensioner . its running great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Lift washer lid by jerking the lid up and open. Remove front panel by removing 2 screws at front bottom and guiding tabs out of slots. Locate tabs on tub cover and gently pry loose with a flat blade screwdriver or putty knife. Remove tub cover and inspect seal area for damage or debris. Replace new tub cover on tub and align and fasten each tab. Ensure that lid is securely fastened to tub by pressing top of cover down and visually inspecting that each tab is engaged with tub hooks. Replace front panel. Use anti-seize grease when replacing the 2 front panel screws. Use a small amount of petroleum jelly on the top lid spring clips before closing washer top. (The last 2 tips will help any future opening of the washer.)

First I removed the hot and cold water supply lines to the machine. Then I removed the two screws at the top of the back panel, and pulled the entire top of the machine off which was a little tricky to figure out. There are two tension-like clips in the front of the machine holding the top on. (I had thought the back panel would come off so I was surprised when it became clear that the top of the machine would come off.) Then I unscrewed the two screws that hold the water inlet valve. I had to remove the green grounding wire that was clipped on the frame. The water inlet valve then lifted out easily. There were two clips to slide off, and a hose going into the tub that also had to come off which I did by loosening a little clamp on the end of the hose- saved the clamp for the new valve! Re-attaching everything was a snap. Tested the hot water before re-setting the top of the machine back together and it worked!

The repair would have gone much easier if I did not have a stack dryer on top of the washer. Had to roll out the total unit and work with the dryer partly on top. Only needed minimal work and tools after that.

Shut off water to washer....unplug power cord...pulled washer from wall out into room....removed 2 water supply hoses....removed 2 top retaining clip screws on rear top of cabinet.....lifted rear end of top panel up approx 5 inches......propped up with small pieces of cut up 2X4 lumber.....did not disconnect any wiring related to the control panel...remove 2 screws holding valve to cabinet back panel......lift valve up and out of cabinet by the tub fiil hose.....disconnect 2 wire plugs, mark these upper, lower or hot /cold......disconnect the tub fill hose....remove the back panel-to-valve bracket off the old valve and install on the new valve and reverse this procedure!!! The new valve flows water better and faster, the wash is done quicker!!

Unplug washer. Remove supply lines. Remove two screws in back and remove clips holding top of washer. Front of washer top is held by two clips. Release top from clips and slide top towards the front. Remove two screws holding the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Lift unit out and remove clamp and hose. Install new unit in reverse of removal.