FWS933FS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Was so easy the video link made it even easier. Will with no doubt return for any other problems for my appliances if needed.

Used a metal cooking spoon to pry open the lid, held it in place with a chain (mentioned in the tools required) and used needlenose pliers to remove the clamp on the old hose assmbly. Transferd that clamp to the new hose assembly and replace the (1) screw holding it in place. Closed the lid of the washer, and now it is like the problm had never existed. (Very easy fix, 1 of 10 on difficulty scale).

My guy got a beer and followed the advice from John from Covino CA. Thank you John, the part about pulling the pen sure made my guys repair a piece of cake! He replaced the timer and put the panel back on and I was doing a load of laundry immediately. My advice is follow John's advice!

The drive block spline was loose in the Agitator, for the now block to fit tight enough to stay in place while reassembly of the Agitator, ( keep falling out) the old block had to be driven out. Had to design a wire tool to hold the block in place until the Agitator could be fitted over the shaft and seated tight on the shaft drive, then pulled the wire out. Wasn't the most easy task to do and sure took more than 5 min. to install.

Very simple, unplug washer for safety, remove 2 Phillips screws form bottom of front panel, slide panel down to slip the ears out of their slots. set panel off to side, remove the electrical plug on the pump, unscrew the two hold down Phillips screws, raise the pump up and slid a heavy absorbent towel under the pump, loosen the two clamps, slide the hoses off, remove the sloppy wet towel, install the new pump, and screw it down, push the electrical connection on, slip the hoses on , clamp them in place, install the front cover by aligning the slot and ears up, use a screw driver or something the raise the panel up in place then install the last 2 screws plug it in your done.

One day the washer would spill water out on the floor then it would be fine for a week and do it again.Finally it broke,i ordered the new drain pump and installed it in just a few minutes,Hose clamps were a pain,it works just fine now,I would say replace the clamps while you are doing this ,it would make it much easier .Hope this helps !

watched the video on website, printed instructions for feedback.

sucked out remaining water with shop vac. took off lower front panel, two screws. took off back panel, six screws. diconnected drain hose from pump,some addittional water drained out, sucked up with shop vac. disconnected tub drain from pump, more water, shop vac. unplugged two wires from back of pump, removed two screws holding pump, removed pump, put in new pump, reversed procedure. Done!

released hold down clips on top and removed two screws at the bottom of the front panel and firmly pushed down on the panel to release it exposing the motor drive assembly and idler tension pulley i released tension on the drive belt removed the pulley from the assembly replaced it with the new pulley including the pressure washer which keeps the pulley stable realigned the belt and replaced the front cover and closed the top. done.

Took front off and put the new belt on. Then put the front back on. At my Age 70 yrs did good and saved $124.00 Which I paid that 9 months ago.

Good

I used a flat-head screw driver to lift the main lid up off the washer to get to the washer lid safety switch..Unplug the plug from the electrical outlet. Removed the 4 wires from the switch, and removed 2 screws to remove the old switch..Then install the new safety switch in reverse order.

Checked drive belt by removing two screws on the BOTTOM of the front panel. Would spin dry but not agitate. Motor is two directional. Spin one way, agitate the other way. Same belt, so not the belt. Removed the agitator and the drive was turning but not the agitaor. It APPEARED that the agitator drive block was part of the agitator. IT IS NOT. Tap out the drive block,(Part # PSii52574)by threading a long bolt with the same threads as the screw that held the agitator to the drive assembly. Gently tap and the drive block will drop out. Replace the Agitator drive block. Worked like new for $21.32 + SH. The old agitator drive block was broken in pieces thus not allowing the agitator drive to turn the agitator back and forth. Did not need the Agitator, agitator screw or agitator spacer. Easy fix. No experience necessary. Cliff

Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cover and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.

on front of machine,,,removed 2 screws at bottom corners. open top cover, using putty knife to release spring clips between front panel & top cover, lift & support top cover.note; tape hinged lid of machine to hold closed.the remove front panel of washer using a downward motion.re move spring clamp on water pump ,w/pliers, by sliding clamp upwards along drain hose. with a twisting motion,remove hose from pump.thread old hose out through back of machine.reverse reassembly,using new drain hose.note; suggest using an automotive radiator hose clamp on pump/hose connection instead of spring clamp.most spring type clamps will lose their tension with repeated plier action.