FWT865RHQ0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Let's see...removed lower panel-used tools to unscrew the unit---one piece-nice to replace---EASY to replace! Removed hose---placed hose on new unit; screwed all back to bottom of washer-replaced lower panel...Voila! Made sure unit was balanced...did a load of whites---Awesome WASHER NOW!!!

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

Removed spring retainer straps from top of springs. Propped up tub with blocks and a wedge. Lifted out each spring and replaced. Re-attached spring retainer straps. Removed pins from shock absorbers (old/broken ones). These break due to moving washer w/out installing original foam blocks and support screws or due to age and fatigue. Pins have a retainer that must be depressed as you pull or push them out. may need to spin back and forth with pliers as you pull them. Bottom right pin won't come out w/out a hassle. Cut it in pieces with dykes and used spare pushed in from the FRONT (not the rear, as it was originally installed). Found leak was not fixed by getting the drum back up to proper height. Found bolt on tub had broken the bottom of the soap dispenser "tray". This is a 50.00 part. Made a patch from the bottom. Roughed up plastic and used silicone adhesive. After it had adhered filled from top with more silicone. Allowed 24 hrs to dry. Washer is as good as new.

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

Replaced both the water inlet valve and the tank pressure switch to eliminate any possible cause. The repair was easy, and now the washer works fine.

Took door lock switch out and fished out broken part. Reinstalled switch and installed new striker. Problem solved. Ordered extra striker just in case.

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

Very basic replacement- 2 screws in and out. The part did not come with screws to be sure to save them if you remove the broken part ahead of time to make the process smoother.

Remove top of washer, remove door lock assembly,install new assembly replace top.

Remove screws take off striker .Put striker back on with screws back on

Tighten screws. Took 5 minutes

As others have mentioned, it was pretty straight forward although a bit finicky to get into the tight spots to press out the pins. The little piece of 1x4 block helped press the pins back in. For the right side shock, I had to undo the large rubber hose at the bottom of the drum and also had to remove the sheet metal shield in the back to allow clearance for the pin to come out. There's only 2 screws holding it in so again, not too hard to do.

Removed front panel, used socket to compress lock tab on plastic pins holding shocks. Still taks a little effort to get them out. The one behind a plastic drain canister is a proble as there doesn't seem to be a good method for moving that canister. I think that's why the spare pin is provided.

Sadly, my case was one of the lower percentage where the problem is in the rear bearing area. The shocks were, the top support springs were good but the rear of the washer drum was shot. Opted to replace with new washer rather than go through the much longer repair with the almost $300 in parts.

I removed the front access cover and the rear cover. It was also necessary to remove the water level sensor (attached to the tub drain hose) to access one of the shocks. Not having a 1/2" deep socket, I used a 2" piece of 1/2" copper pipe to depress the locking tab on the shock attachment pins--worked great. Pulled the pins out with pliers. Putting the pins back in after replacing the shocks was easiest to do using 'channel-lock' pliers to grab the bracket and the pin head and squeeze in the pin. The only problem was that my copper pipe piece fell into the drain hose when removing one of the pins! Had to take the drain hose loose to fish it out.

The parts came with instructions They stated to remove the front panel. This only gets to one side for a difficult repair. I removed the back panel then it was a snap. Easiest with two people.