KWS839AS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

my husband did the work he can fix anything.i watched he explained what he was doing and how he was getting it done.it did"nt take long at all.the biggest problem was setting the belt tensioner . its running great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pulled out the machine. Disconnected water lines. Removed four screws attaching the top brackets. In rear of top panel. Slid top panel forward and clear of valve. Removed two wire harnesses. Removed two screws holding valve to the back panel. Pulled valve down and out. Removed outlet side line spring clamp with channel lock pliers and pulled hose off old valve. Installed outlet side hose and spring clamp onto new valve. Placed valve up into place and installed two screws. Installed two wiring harnesses. Replaced top lid. Replaced lid bracket screws. Re-attached water hoses and pushed the machine back into place.

Unplug washer. Remove supply lines. Remove two screws in back and remove clips holding top of washer. Front of washer top is held by two clips. Release top from clips and slide top towards the front. Remove two screws holding the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Lift unit out and remove clamp and hose. Install new unit in reverse of removal.

First I removed the hot and cold water supply lines to the machine. Then I removed the two screws at the top of the back panel, and pulled the entire top of the machine off which was a little tricky to figure out. There are two tension-like clips in the front of the machine holding the top on. (I had thought the back panel would come off so I was surprised when it became clear that the top of the machine would come off.) Then I unscrewed the two screws that hold the water inlet valve. I had to remove the green grounding wire that was clipped on the frame. The water inlet valve then lifted out easily. There were two clips to slide off, and a hose going into the tub that also had to come off which I did by loosening a little clamp on the end of the hose- saved the clamp for the new valve! Re-attaching everything was a snap. Tested the hot water before re-setting the top of the machine back together and it worked!

Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.

Removed screws at back securing top panel (4).

Removed screws holding water inlet valve to back of machine (2)

Removed water hoses to bucket

Removed squeeze clamp securing water distribution hose from inlet valve

Reversed method with new valve.

Very fast...~25 min
Works fine so far!

Shut off water to washer....unplug power cord...pulled washer from wall out into room....removed 2 water supply hoses....removed 2 top retaining clip screws on rear top of cabinet.....lifted rear end of top panel up approx 5 inches......propped up with small pieces of cut up 2X4 lumber.....did not disconnect any wiring related to the control panel...remove 2 screws holding valve to cabinet back panel......lift valve up and out of cabinet by the tub fiil hose.....disconnect 2 wire plugs, mark these upper, lower or hot /cold......disconnect the tub fill hose....remove the back panel-to-valve bracket off the old valve and install on the new valve and reverse this procedure!!! The new valve flows water better and faster, the wash is done quicker!!

The repair would have gone much easier if I did not have a stack dryer on top of the washer. Had to roll out the total unit and work with the dryer partly on top. Only needed minimal work and tools after that.

replaced it with the new one

Pulled off back panel and found that the Drain pump had some how came loose, so I found screws and tried but still wouldn't work check pump for blockage couldn't find and but could hear the pump hum so figured the pump went bad. the hardest part was getting the squeeze type clamps off or it would have been a 30 minute job. I orederd new part and it came fed ex next day and put in and changed the bellows clamp to worm gear and made it a lot easier going in. Started washer and ran just like it was supposed to.

For the washer/Dryer combo, replacing water valve was easy, first you need to remove washer front panel and top lid, make sure that washer electrical is unplugged, turn off gas, turn off water valves.remove 1-screw holding water valve. reaching from top and using pliers remove retention clip holding hose. remove old water valve, there are two electrical connections for cold and hot water valves, make sure you mark them, remove them from old water valve. insert new water valve, connect hose and make sure that retaining clip is connected correctly.connect electrical wires. screw water valve into place from rear of washer. connect water hoses. before connecting panel and lid, turn on water valves and observe if there is any water leaks.

I met her in the basement lonely and needing a fix i went down on my knees and started to take off her worn out belt slowly down past her pulley and off her soon to be hot transmision. i gently held her pulleys as i wrapped her new belt around them. putting her chasies back together and plugging her in i pushed her button and off she went shakening and rallting once again.

The part was fine,except for one problem. The screw holes in the part were too small for the sheet metal screws. After several minutes of trying to get the screws to turn, I got a small round file and enlarged the holes until the screws fit. Luckily for me, I've had to do things like that before. Otherwise, the installation was straightforward. And the washer no longer leaks!

This is a front loader and the video I saw was a top loader. I removed the oval shaped centerpiece off the back to reach the pump. I also removed the filter and cleaned it, I used screw type hoseclamp in place of the tension spring for easier assembly due to the cramped space. This helped the drain problem as did cleaning the filter. The no spin problem persisted and I ordered the door lock part. This part fixed the no spin problem.

Firs things first - get as much water out of the basin as possible using a siphon or a container and a sponge. Have towels ready for inevitable spillage. Dispose of water in a toilet. Remove the front panel of the washer. The pump is attached with 2 screws/nuts. Remove the pump and place in an empty bucket. Then remove the hose clamps from the washer inside the bucket to catch any water left in the hoses. Attach the new pump to the washer. Then attach the hoses to the new pump. Replacement is very fast and easy - total time from setup to testing, to cleanup 1.5 hours.