FWS235RBS3 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Took off back of washer. Control panel and top. Disconnected hot and cold water inlet hose. Pulled offwire leads. Unscrewed valve from washer. installed new valve. Reconnected wire leads. connected hoses. put top back on. put back of washer and control panel back on. Reconnected water. Done. Nothing too difficult. just a little time consuming. Space was an small issue in the laundry room.

Quick google search brought me to this site, part was very easy to locate and purchase. The part was delivered within 5 days and 2 screws, 2 wires, 2 hoses, and 15 minutes later it was a done deal.

Changed the belt started working like new.

Straight-forward: remove hose wire-clamps, unplug electric/ground, unbolt bottom pump bracket (two studs), reset new pump outlet to match factory configuration (easy, but watch to not roll/pinch o-ring seal), reinstall in reverse order (wire-clamps are toughest part - clamping tools, as noted, are helpful). Also, clean hoses, esp. if old, and it helps to use some kind of vinyl guard (like Amorall) on them for lube and preservation. Leak-test. Plan for some water leakage during removal - sopping/vac'ing out the drum, catching hose drainage in a shallow pan or with a towel will help.

The original inlet valve comes in from the rear and the replacement inlet valve mounts horizontally and this will not allow the use of the valve mounting plate and I needed to make a new plate so the supply hose could mount. After making the new plate and having the supply hose attach vertically, the system appears to be functioning properly. Having to make a new mounting plate was an unexpected adventure!

Took off the front panel and changed the belt. Putting on the front panel took longer then changing the belt.

Hard to reach around the motor and gear box to attach the belt and pulley not much room. Harder to put the front pannel back on than take off

I used this website to look at the parts breakdown the only way water can get into the machine is thru the solenoid valve. Ordered valve.Followed the video on how to replace valve.I pulled apart the old valve. The plastic seat was cracked,letting water seep into the machine.

Put the front up on a 4 X4 block. Removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Slid the front panel down and off. With pliers squeezed the spring clamp and removed the hose, slid the hose out of the machine. Slid in the new hose into the hole in the back, put the spring clamp on the hose, slid the pump end of the hose onto the pump and using pliers put the spring clamp back on. Put the front panel back on and the screws, removed the block. Tested the washer.

This repair couldn't have been easier. I went to the website, looked up my part and ordered it - this all took longer than the repair! I followed the super easy video on the site walking me through the replacement step by step. I probably would have taken less time, but I made the mistake of propping the top of the washing machine up too high, which popped a suction hose that prevents the tub from overfilling, which unfortunately, I didn't realize. 10 minutes, I started to do a small test load. Luckily, our laundry is right off of the kitchen, so after 5 minutes of filling, I stopped eating dinner to ask my wife how long it took to fill. At that, we could hear the water running on to the laundry room floor. Another trip to the internet and sure enough, attaching that hose fixed her right up. Thanks Partselect! Couldn't have made my life easier - much to the chagrin of my wife who was searching feverishly through the paper for a replacement!

Have you spouse take the washer apart and fix it. He did it in no time.I was able to order the parts and have them shipped. They where here in no time Thank you PartsSelect.com

I removed the back cover after disconnecting the electric and shutting off the water. I then proceeded to disconnect the water lines and then removed the water inlet valve by removing the two screws holding it in place. Then I used pliers to remove the hose leading to the washer. After that I did everything in reverse and was back in business. The video was very helpful and it made me feel comfortable with the procedure. I now know a little more about washers. Thanks for the excellent information.

The part was fine,except for one problem. The screw holes in the part were too small for the sheet metal screws. After several minutes of trying to get the screws to turn, I got a small round file and enlarged the holes until the screws fit. Luckily for me, I've had to do things like that before. Otherwise, the installation was straightforward. And the washer no longer leaks!

Checked drive belt by removing two screws on the BOTTOM of the front panel. Would spin dry but not agitate. Motor is two directional. Spin one way, agitate the other way. Same belt, so not the belt. Removed the agitator and the drive was turning but not the agitaor. It APPEARED that the agitator drive block was part of the agitator. IT IS NOT. Tap out the drive block,(Part # PSii52574)by threading a long bolt with the same threads as the screw that held the agitator to the drive assembly. Gently tap and the drive block will drop out. Replace the Agitator drive block. Worked like new for $21.32 + SH. The old agitator drive block was broken in pieces thus not allowing the agitator drive to turn the agitator back and forth. Did not need the Agitator, agitator screw or agitator spacer. Easy fix. No experience necessary. Cliff

Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cover and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.