LTF6000ES1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

New part installed as per repair video - no problems.

Screwed the new part back into place.

well i took the dryer off the top took, the 6 screws out that keep the top then took the soap tray out super easy then there was like 5 screws that keep the controls of the washer because the control board is behind it then just did on wire plug at a time the wires are long enuff thank god you do have to move some light things just some clear things but is so super easy the thing that the knob goes on is kind hard to get off but I just pushed it out from the back and thats it done less than 15 min and i took the dryer off the top and put it back on alone super easy anyone could do it cakes and pies

I ordered pump so I would have it on hand. I didn’t want the washer in pieces waiting on parts. New pump came in 2-3 days with standard shipping. Found a video online for this model. Removed top. Removed control panel and set on front edge of frame. Removed door seal spring. Removed front panel and separated seal from drum. Pump located at bottom left. Removed pump screws. Got a shallow pan from kitchen to catch water. Removed hoses and trap. Not much water. Took trap boot and pump to sink for cleaning and found a bra wire had made it past the screen and was rubbing on pump impeller. That was the noise. Cleaned and reinstalled old pump. Has been running for 2 months without a problem. Easily returned the new pump! Highly recommend this company and site. Will come here for my repair jobs first. Hope I remembered all the steps correctly since it has been over 2 months.

Watched the video on website and followed what they said. Worked great.

the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

Took door lock switch out and fished out broken part. Reinstalled switch and installed new striker. Problem solved. Ordered extra striker just in case.

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

Followed the video instructions to the letter. so easy. Door works great and will certainly come back if and when I need any parts.

With breakdown maual, I diassembled the door and reinstalled the glass and rehung the door and closed it. Turned on the machine and the bottom of the glass does not meet the rubber seal on the washer opening.

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

I removed the front access cover and the rear cover. It was also necessary to remove the water level sensor (attached to the tub drain hose) to access one of the shocks. Not having a 1/2" deep socket, I used a 2" piece of 1/2" copper pipe to depress the locking tab on the shock attachment pins--worked great. Pulled the pins out with pliers. Putting the pins back in after replacing the shocks was easiest to do using 'channel-lock' pliers to grab the bracket and the pin head and squeeze in the pin. The only problem was that my copper pipe piece fell into the drain hose when removing one of the pins! Had to take the drain hose loose to fish it out.

I just pushed the washer on its side on a price of wood. I put a pan to catch the drain water.It was then as easy as detaching two boots and two bolts that hold the drain motor on.Do it in reverse and you got it.Oh first don't forget to unplug the electrical wires ect.