WA5800AWW2 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Removed two screws that held top of washer in place. removed top of washer. Removed two screws that held water inlet alve in place. Removed clamp and outlet hose from old inlet valve.












































































Removed two screws hold wash machine cover in place. Removed cover. Unscrewed cold and hot water supply lines from old inlet valve. Removed two screws holding inlet valve in place. Removed clamp and hose from inlet outlet hose. Replaced inew inlet in reverse order.

Shut off water to washer....unplug power cord...pulled washer from wall out into room....removed 2 water supply hoses....removed 2 top retaining clip screws on rear top of cabinet.....lifted rear end of top panel up approx 5 inches......propped up with small pieces of cut up 2X4 lumber.....did not disconnect any wiring related to the control panel...remove 2 screws holding valve to cabinet back panel......lift valve up and out of cabinet by the tub fiil hose.....disconnect 2 wire plugs, mark these upper, lower or hot /cold......disconnect the tub fill hose....remove the back panel-to-valve bracket off the old valve and install on the new valve and reverse this procedure!!! The new valve flows water better and faster, the wash is done quicker!!

First I removed the hot and cold water supply lines to the machine. Then I removed the two screws at the top of the back panel, and pulled the entire top of the machine off which was a little tricky to figure out. There are two tension-like clips in the front of the machine holding the top on. (I had thought the back panel would come off so I was surprised when it became clear that the top of the machine would come off.) Then I unscrewed the two screws that hold the water inlet valve. I had to remove the green grounding wire that was clipped on the frame. The water inlet valve then lifted out easily. There were two clips to slide off, and a hose going into the tub that also had to come off which I did by loosening a little clamp on the end of the hose- saved the clamp for the new valve! Re-attaching everything was a snap. Tested the hot water before re-setting the top of the machine back together and it worked!

Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.

The repair would have gone much easier if I did not have a stack dryer on top of the washer. Had to roll out the total unit and work with the dryer partly on top. Only needed minimal work and tools after that.

Unplug washer. Remove supply lines. Remove two screws in back and remove clips holding top of washer. Front of washer top is held by two clips. Release top from clips and slide top towards the front. Remove two screws holding the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Lift unit out and remove clamp and hose. Install new unit in reverse of removal.

Removed screws at back securing top panel (4).

Removed screws holding water inlet valve to back of machine (2)

Removed water hoses to bucket

Removed squeeze clamp securing water distribution hose from inlet valve

Reversed method with new valve.

Very fast...~25 min
Works fine so far!

did the repair from the video that you had supplied for me. Thank you so much for making this one repair that was so easy and for your great customer service.

I used this website to look at the parts breakdown the only way water can get into the machine is thru the solenoid valve. Ordered valve.Followed the video on how to replace valve.I pulled apart the old valve. The plastic seat was cracked,letting water seep into the machine.

released hold down clips on top and removed two screws at the bottom of the front panel and firmly pushed down on the panel to release it exposing the motor drive assembly and idler tension pulley i released tension on the drive belt removed the pulley from the assembly replaced it with the new pulley including the pressure washer which keeps the pulley stable realigned the belt and replaced the front cover and closed the top. done.

Changed the belt started working like new.

Hard to reach around the motor and gear box to attach the belt and pulley not much room. Harder to put the front pannel back on than take off

Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cover and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.

Quick google search brought me to this site, part was very easy to locate and purchase. The part was delivered within 5 days and 2 screws, 2 wires, 2 hoses, and 15 minutes later it was a done deal.

lifed the lid .remove oud hose and replaced with new hose