LTF2140ES1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

The replacement of the Shock Absorber Kit was hampered on the right side by a metal box that was mounted just a little shorter than the bottom plastic pin. the deadblow hammer with the dowel worked with all the pins including the impeded pin and the top right pin which had to be removed at an angle. The replacement did not repair the washer - it is the tub bearing which went in a previous washer of a similar model about 4 years ago.

Watched a u tube video and did it myself and I'm a 58 year old woman who has never worked on a washer before!

This repair was pretty simple. Unplug washer from electrical outlet and remove hoses. This is a good time to replace the hoses. Removed two screws at the back of the washer to remove the top of the washer. This exposed the faulty valve assembly. Disconnect the three connections. There are two screws holding this part in place. The top one is easy to remove, the bottom one is a little more difficult due to access. Remove plastic retainer plate on back of washer. Remove faulty valve assembly. There are two rubber grommets/gaskets that will need to be removed from the faulty part and installed on the new part. Slide new assembly into place. Secure with the two screws. Replace retainer plate. Reattach power connections. Reattach hoses and finally Reinstall top of washer. Total time was right around 30 minutes.

pulled the retaining ring then unscrewed 2 screws removed the bad switch and unplugged the old wires then hooked them back to the new switch...this was the second switch in approximately 2 years...

I started by removing the two screws at the back of the washer and taking the top off of the washing machine. Than I removed the two screws securing the door lok and switch assembly. I disconected the two or three electrical connections and install the new one in the reverse order.

Removed front panel and unplugged wire connector to drain pump. Loosened two hose clamps and removed hoses the unbolted drain pump from washer frame. Simple removal and even simplier installation of new drain pump.

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

With breakdown maual, I diassembled the door and reinstalled the glass and rehung the door and closed it. Turned on the machine and the bottom of the glass does not meet the rubber seal on the washer opening.

Took door lock switch out and fished out broken part. Reinstalled switch and installed new striker. Problem solved. Ordered extra striker just in case.

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

removed the two screws that were attached to the old door and put the new door on.

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

The video was most helpful, and the left shock replacement went as shown. The sucker punch was getting to the right shock - much harder.
First notice video has washer on a stand. How nice to have had it up on a table. LOL As it was I tilted the machine back with a 6 inch block under the front. Still a bear to get to the shock, but w/ patience, doable even though you are flat out on the floor.
The old shocks were so bad that the pistons fell out once it was removed.
It takes some strength to get the pins through the new shocks, and as I have a weak left hand I had to resort to using a C-clamp to help. If I could have gotten my right hand in there I may not have needed it. Right hand did have to hold the clamp as it had to just catch the side of the pin hole since the pin is pointed and sticks out past the mounting bracket when seated.
I also ordered a spring but they both were still good.

The instructions that come with parts say to pull pins out with pliers. not much room to do that. I used hammers and punches where I had access and prybars nail puller an hammer to offset where the water outlet was in the way. I used a short handle hammer to install three of the pins. The third I used a prybar and spacer blocks.