FFT6287C-80 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

The repair would have gone much easier if I did not have a stack dryer on top of the washer. Had to roll out the total unit and work with the dryer partly on top. Only needed minimal work and tools after that.

First I removed the hot and cold water supply lines to the machine. Then I removed the two screws at the top of the back panel, and pulled the entire top of the machine off which was a little tricky to figure out. There are two tension-like clips in the front of the machine holding the top on. (I had thought the back panel would come off so I was surprised when it became clear that the top of the machine would come off.) Then I unscrewed the two screws that hold the water inlet valve. I had to remove the green grounding wire that was clipped on the frame. The water inlet valve then lifted out easily. There were two clips to slide off, and a hose going into the tub that also had to come off which I did by loosening a little clamp on the end of the hose- saved the clamp for the new valve! Re-attaching everything was a snap. Tested the hot water before re-setting the top of the machine back together and it worked!

Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.

I had a repair man fix it- it went very well

Took off back of washer. Control panel and top. Disconnected hot and cold water inlet hose. Pulled offwire leads. Unscrewed valve from washer. installed new valve. Reconnected wire leads. connected hoses. put top back on. put back of washer and control panel back on. Reconnected water. Done. Nothing too difficult. just a little time consuming. Space was an small issue in the laundry room.

Quick google search brought me to this site, part was very easy to locate and purchase. The part was delivered within 5 days and 2 screws, 2 wires, 2 hoses, and 15 minutes later it was a done deal.

removed all parts from trans shaft and replaced seal although had some difficulty removeing the agitator assembly due to age and mineral deposits but a little wd40 and tapping with a hammer helped

The part was fine,except for one problem. The screw holes in the part were too small for the sheet metal screws. After several minutes of trying to get the screws to turn, I got a small round file and enlarged the holes until the screws fit. Luckily for me, I've had to do things like that before. Otherwise, the installation was straightforward. And the washer no longer leaks!

First unplug power cord and removed water hoses, then removed rear panel of machine. Shop-vac old debries out of machine Remove small spring holding belt tensioner pulley assembly. Remove hex key from motor shaft that connects to the pump. Use pliers to spin clamps out of way so you can then remove the (4) four bolts that hold pump to bottom of the motor, no need to remove other pump bolts. I used a straight screwdriver to pry the pump loose from the motor shaft to slip the old belt out of the machine. Put new belt on and reversed process for reassembly. :Note: Shop vac up water that leaks out of pump when you remove the 4 bolts, also wipe down pump so you can check for leaks after tightening pump back onto motor.

I used this website to look at the parts breakdown the only way water can get into the machine is thru the solenoid valve. Ordered valve.Followed the video on how to replace valve.I pulled apart the old valve. The plastic seat was cracked,letting water seep into the machine.

Watched the handy-dandy video, removed the defective part, waited for delivery, installed the new part and was back washing another load (minus the wet floor) in less than 10 minutes! Just one catch, I am a 56yo female with nominal hand strength, so technically, I had to recruit the help of a (stronger) person to tighten-up those self-tapping screws. I didn't feel so weak when I noticed that he had some difficulty as well. LOL! Ladies, don't be shy asking for help-I even tried the power drill with no success. Excellent video! Aside from the self-tapping screws, my grand-daughter could have managed this repair!

For the washer/Dryer combo, replacing water valve was easy, first you need to remove washer front panel and top lid, make sure that washer electrical is unplugged, turn off gas, turn off water valves.remove 1-screw holding water valve. reaching from top and using pliers remove retention clip holding hose. remove old water valve, there are two electrical connections for cold and hot water valves, make sure you mark them, remove them from old water valve. insert new water valve, connect hose and make sure that retaining clip is connected correctly.connect electrical wires. screw water valve into place from rear of washer. connect water hoses. before connecting panel and lid, turn on water valves and observe if there is any water leaks.

I turned off water valves. I then unplugged the AC. I took the 4 screws out on the back end of the top cover of the washer. I removed the two water lines from the water inlet vales and the two electrical connectors. I then removed the two screws holding the water valve assembly and it came out easy. Installed new water valve assembly mounted with two screws , then put the electrical connection and water lines back on new water valve assembly. I turned the incoming water vales on and installed the top cover with the four back screws and was done.

I removed the back cover after disconnecting the electric and shutting off the water. I then proceeded to disconnect the water lines and then removed the water inlet valve by removing the two screws holding it in place. Then I used pliers to remove the hose leading to the washer. After that I did everything in reverse and was back in business. The video was very helpful and it made me feel comfortable with the procedure. I now know a little more about washers. Thanks for the excellent information.

It took longer to remove and then replace the back of the washer than to replace the water inlet valve. The video made it look easy and it was!. For the next perso: remember that if the water valve springs a leak and the washer has water in it, turn the dial to spin and the water will leave the drum. No need to siphon out the water.