41739012891 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Easiest repair I've ever done. Spun off the remainder of the old broken know assembly, and spun on the new part. It fit perfectly.

I removed the 2 screws holding the broken door catch in place, and attached the new door catch with them. The repair could not have been easier, and now the door works great.

Also, I ordered the part, and it arrived via FedEx the next day. That greatly exceeded my expectations!

The repair was easy, easy, easy. The part arrived within 2 days after I ordered it. I used pliers to remove the broken knob and replaced it with the new knob. It takes about 30 seconds to fix.

received new part from Partselect within 48 hours! Very simple replacement by unscrewing remainder of old knob counterclockwise. The screwed in new knob in clockwise direction. That was all.

2 screws out then 2 screws in.

unscrew old knob off and screw on new

I removed 2 screws from the the top back of top. Removed the cover. Removed the 2 screws holding the door lock assembly.Removed the door lock assembly, disconnected the 3 wiring harnesses. Connected the wiring harnesses to the new door lock switch assembly. Installed the new unit in the door lock, reinstalled the top.Done.

I was having issues with the door catch. It looked worn, so I ordered the $10 (plus $13 shipping) part. Replaced the part, same issues. Figured out the hard plastic door catch was just not designed large enough to keep the door (a.k.a. lid) closed. My brilliant brother suggested I just put a piece of masking tape on the tip of the door catch to enlarge it. Guess what? It resolved the problem. I could have saved $23 and used masking tape that was left in the garage by the previous owner of my house.

no problemO top loader. open top, disco two electrical plugs and a small hose, then remove two screws that hold valve in place and remove. Re install in reverse order. Thanks for your support Eliot in Alaska!

The door catch on the washer broke, and I had to epoxy the broken catch to finish my laundry. I looked for the part online, and PartSelect not only had the part but had a photo of it as well. I was very impressed with how quickly the part arrived, and within 15 minutes the repair was complete. Thanks for having the photos and getting the part to us so quickly.

Thank you for this web site! A friend suggested the problem being the drain pump, but I was not convinced as the washer would still drain on certain cycles. I took the chance and ordered the part after reading like stories on this website. For the repair: don't forget to lay towels down or have a shop vac ready to collect the water in the lines! The clamps were somewhat difficult to manage as the space is tight, but I did get them off with a medium size adjustable wrench. Getting them back on was a bit more difficult; I gave up on one and put a new o clamp on. It's metal, so I'm sure I would have been better off using the plastic-coated factory clamps.

I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

Watched a u tube video and did it myself and I'm a 58 year old woman who has never worked on a washer before!

Watched the video on website and followed what they said. Worked great.

The hardest part was moving the stacked washer/dryer from the alcove. I found the instruction videos from this site accurate and helpful.

After disconnecting the water/gas/electrical connections:
Shock Absorbers:
-Remove front service panel
-Squeeze lock tab on shock absorber pins and gently tap out of sockets
(inserting a small screw driver kept tab depressed when starting)
(lower left is pretty easy due to clear access)
(right side is more difficult)
-Optional: remove drain boot on lower right to improve access
(squeeze spring clamp and wiggle off of connection then work boot off of nipple)
(I did this step but in the end discovered it was not necessary, as I ended up taking the back panel off of the washer to replace the belt)
-Position new shock absorber in mounting brackets
-Manually extend shock absorbers to line up with pin holes
-Tap pins into place
(For lower right, the pin was captured by the circuit board enclosure. I was able to remove it but ended up removing the two mounting screws for the enclosure to reinstall the lower shock absorber pin)
-Reinstall drain boot & spring clamp
-Replace front service panel

Drive belt:
-Remove back panel of washer (multiple phillips head screws around perimeter)
-Remove old belt by pulling toward you and rotating drum
-Position new belt on motor pulley
-Position new belt on drum pulley
-Zip tie new belt to drum pulley to keep it engaged as you rotate the drum
(new belt will likely be much tighter than old belt)
-With belt installed on both pulleys, clip zip tie
-Rotate drum multiple times to ensure belt is centered and tracking properly
(if needed, the belt can be manipulated in/out while rotating drum to ensure engagement on drive (motor) pulley)
-Replace back panel
-Put unit back in service