CAW9244DW0 Crosley Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Joseph from BAKER, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006384, W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Loose pulley
Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.
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- Customer:
- Angelo from PORTLAND, ME
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
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- Customer:
- Chet from CLEARWATER, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006384, W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
heavy loads did not spin dry properly
I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.
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- Customer:
- TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
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- Customer:
- George from OCALA, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10780045
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
washer was shaking bad
Replaced the suspension rods not an easy task but very rewarding to hear it running quiet again when spinning.
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- Customer:
- Mary from GROVER HILL, OH
- Parts Used:
- WPW10683603
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Water would not stop running over filled the washer
Unplugged the washer turned off the water disconnected the water lines then took the cover off and disconnected the wires and took 2 screws out and took the old part out and put the new 1 in
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- Customer:
- Charles from SEALY, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10404050
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Washer gets stuck on Rinse and not complete the cycle.
Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.
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- Customer:
- JERRY W. from CARROLLTON, GA
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
making noise when starting spin cycle
Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.
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- Customer:
- Michael from GEORGETOWN, KY
- Parts Used:
- W10780045
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Washer struts were wore out
Removed the old and replaced with new
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- Customer:
- Bernard from ARIZONA CITY, AZ
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Gear stripped on main spline
Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.
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- Customer:
- Clinton from OKLAHOMA CITY, OK
- Parts Used:
- WPW10131112, WP3949550, W10772621
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Agitator was not turning. Dogears were worn out
First need to remove cap on Agitator. Inside there is a washplate bolt. Remove bolt. Old Agitator will slide up. Pull washer off stem. Clean grooved stem very well. Use some sort of lubricant on stem. Slide new Agitator on to stem. Part will be very snug as metal and plastic do not mix well. (Lubricant needed) Use board to lay flat on top. Gently tap with mallet until fully seated. Install new bolt. Run test wash. (Helps clean wash tub from any foreign substances.)
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- Customer:
- Lucas from ARKANSAS CITY, KS
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Making a loud noise for a while then stopped spinning
Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.
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- Customer:
- Maxwell from RINGWOOD, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006355
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Washer -Maytag Centennial- would NOT agitate. It would run through all cycles as indicated by the lights and even spin at the end, but never agitated. It also did not appeared to go into "sensing" mode at the start. Took a long time to move from "sensing" light to "wash" light. Did not hear or see a
There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair:
>Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain.
>Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom.
Better than than just laying front of washer on floor.
>Used a drop light to help see bottom.
>Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut
heads.
>Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a
Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical
connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed
back down.
Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read.
this part has been a problem with these washers.
>Put Pulley Cover back on.
>Reset washer upright.
>Reconnected water and power.
>Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse"
light on and pushed "start" button.
>Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin"
light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle
- "sensing" and in "wash".
.
Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.
I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.
>Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain.
>Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom.
Better than than just laying front of washer on floor.
>Used a drop light to help see bottom.
>Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut
heads.
>Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a
Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical
connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed
back down.
Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read.
this part has been a problem with these washers.
>Put Pulley Cover back on.
>Reset washer upright.
>Reconnected water and power.
>Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse"
light on and pushed "start" button.
>Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin"
light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle
- "sensing" and in "wash".
.
Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.
I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.
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- Customer:
- Kim from MOUNT UNION, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006355
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
washer would not spin on wash cycle
My daughter is the handy one in the family. She followed Steve's video installation steps and in an hour i was washing clothes.
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- Customer:
- James from MAHWAH, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006384
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Burning smell, ASSUMED it was the belt
Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!
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