CTW100FW1 Crosley Washer - Instructions

One day the washer would spill water out on the floor then it would be fine for a week and do it again.Finally it broke,i ordered the new drain pump and installed it in just a few minutes,Hose clamps were a pain,it works just fine now,I would say replace the clamps while you are doing this ,it would make it much easier .Hope this helps !

lifted up top panel unscrewed two phillips screws at bottom of front panel, lifted up and out and removed the panel exposing motor and belt .pushed in belt tensioner and removed belt.Then I slid the new belt under the tub pulley and rotated it until belt was on both the tub pulley and motor pulley,released belt tensioner and the job was over,

removed and replaced pump

before you buy any parts do this first..turn on your washing machine,then push and hold start and pause at the same time.An error code will come up,look in your book and see what that code represents. Mine came up 47.that error for my machine was the door switch.

My wife done the repair while I was out of town. She never tries to won't on anything in fear that she will mess it up.But she said she had it fixed in ten minutes. Just take the hoses off the pump, unplug, and unbolt where mounted. Then reverse to put on new one. Partselect is always very prompt to sent my parts and I have never had an issue with anything. I will buy all my parts from them from now on.

Following the easy instructions on PartSelect's website, I first removed the screws from the bottom, front of the washer. Then, using the putty knife, I unhooked the clips holding the washer top to the front and pulled off the front. I pushed in the belt wheel and removed the old belt, which was being held on by one strand. Then, I put on the new belt, put the front back on, replaced the screws and then pushed the washer lid back down over the clips. It worked perfectly and took less than 15 minutes and cost me next to nothing. Thanks for a great site!

removed front cover pushed in tensioner by hand walked belt off pulleys tilted belt removed lock ring pulled tensioner off noticed right rear lower tub brace broke at spot weods drilled out spot welds nut and bolted rear brace put springs back on base and installed belt works like new and saved myself from replacing lower washer tub frame so 70.00 and she up and running again

Just pushed the knob on to the metal on-off control,

Was so easy the video link made it even easier. Will with no doubt return for any other problems for my appliances if needed.

piece of cake once i could get to it.

Used a metal cooking spoon to pry open the lid, held it in place with a chain (mentioned in the tools required) and used needlenose pliers to remove the clamp on the old hose assmbly. Transferd that clamp to the new hose assembly and replace the (1) screw holding it in place. Closed the lid of the washer, and now it is like the problm had never existed. (Very easy fix, 1 of 10 on difficulty scale).

lifed the lid .remove oud hose and replaced with new hose

Had to take the front and back panel off the washer. A couple of clamps and electrical plug in came off and then the motor. Put the new motor on plugged it back in and put on the clamps put the panels back on and was able to wash a load of clothes. It is now quiet and spins the clothes out as if it was brand new.

Checked drive belt by removing two screws on the BOTTOM of the front panel. Would spin dry but not agitate. Motor is two directional. Spin one way, agitate the other way. Same belt, so not the belt. Removed the agitator and the drive was turning but not the agitaor. It APPEARED that the agitator drive block was part of the agitator. IT IS NOT. Tap out the drive block,(Part # PSii52574)by threading a long bolt with the same threads as the screw that held the agitator to the drive assembly. Gently tap and the drive block will drop out. Replace the Agitator drive block. Worked like new for $21.32 + SH. The old agitator drive block was broken in pieces thus not allowing the agitator drive to turn the agitator back and forth. Did not need the Agitator, agitator screw or agitator spacer. Easy fix. No experience necessary. Cliff

Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cover and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.