CW7000W Crosley Washer - Instructions

Took off the back plate. Looked to see where it was leaking. Squeezed the clamps on top and bottom to remove from hose and pull hose out.

Disconnected the power plug. Turned off the hot & cold hose water supply. Put down old bath towel. Disconneced hoses from machine inlet valve. Opened entire top for access to electrical connections & fill hose. Replaced inlet valve, new wire connectors. Replaced the hot & cold water hoses.

This was my first washing machine repair.

My husband did the repair quickly and problem solved. The only difficulty was that the water valve was in a tight spot. Overall, if you are mechanically inclined and have the right tools this is do it yourself project.

Pop the top of the washer and use the nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the frontpanel on. Use the nutdriver for two more screws holding the plastic motor cover on. Use nutdriver for the two BIG screws holding the motorplate to the washer frame. After this, I literally beat/chiped/sawed the old motor geat off. Once that was done, I put the new one on; had to use a hammer to knock it all the way on (try not to damage the clips). Reassemble everything. Flip washer over and place bet around two smaller gears. Rotate main tub gear to feed belt on. Make sure you use the nutdriver to loosen/tighten the motor positioner screws in the slots if things aren't working here.
The only really hard thing was taking the old motor gear off.

Back of this washer did not remove, so we had to go in through the top--more restricting space. As you remove the old electrical metal contacts (two each of white and red), pay close attention to where they connect properly. Best to mark them so as not to confuse how to place new contacts. Also, we disconnected a white plastic hose on opposite side of top which determines load size and amount of water, so be sure to look for this.

As described in video; however, the video does not match the model I repaired. Most stuff is the same. Hardest thing to do was installing the new springs on the back of the tub (2 of them).

I took out the agitator first, then I took out the inner tub, next I took out the outer tub, and last I took out the transmission assembly. After replacing the snubber I put the transmission assembly back on, then the new outer tub and next the inner tub. Last I put the agitator back on.

Disconnect Power. Disconnect supply hoses. Open top by releasing top retainer clips with a thin blade or putty knife. Remove 2 sheet metal screws retaining front cover. Remove front cover. Lay a blanket on the floor and lay the machine over on its side leaving access to the front where the panel was just removed. Take belt off. Remove pump hose at bottom of drum. Prop up drum so it is centered in its normal position and not laying to one side. Do this near the lid end. Remove all centering springs - carefully. Drum and transmission assy will now come out through the front opening. Flip drum assy upside down with transmission up. Loosen the screws (do not remove completely - WARNING OF 200 LBS SPRING LOAD!) that clamp the snubber ring to the transmission. Remove the old snubber ring and replace with new. Be sure it is completely under the flange all the way around. Tighten the retaining ring screws. Reassemble all parts in reverse order. Done. Be sure to level the machine per owners manual instructions.

The existing plastic valve is different in size and shape from the replacement part. The existing plastic valve is mounted to a metal mounting braket with bunch of screws. New replacement part has no mounting braket and can't be mounted to the old mounting braket. The old mounting bracket had 2 screws which are used to mount it to the washing machine body. The new valve has only 1 mounting hole which correspondes to a different mounting hole on the body of the washing machine. The new braket is designed to mount directly to the body of the machine. I removed one of the many screws on the old valve /mount braket and used it to mount the new valve directly to the body of the machine.

I first changed the belt which helped but it still sounded like it was going to take off through the roof.....I did the pulley and bearing kit in hopes that it would do some good....it went really smoothly with no issues however it did not solve the problem....so it is working and I am going to just ride it out until it quits....thanks

My husband took out the 2 screws in the front panel and loosen the 3 nuts from the pump.

The parts was easily removed and the entire job tooked 30 mins.

Disconnected both power and hot and cold input water lines. Laid the washer on its front side for access to the bottom. Removed the small access panel from the back of the machine to remove the metal screws holding the pump in place. Removed the single drive belt. New pump installed easily, replaced the belt and access panel. Reconnected the power and water hoses and everything worked fine.

I took off the back cover and it was a fairly simple repair, it just took a little time to fit the piece properly as there is little room to move tools and hands. Great diagrams on the website to ensure properly ordering. Fast shipping.

I moved the washer out from the wall. unplugged washer, turned off water. Took off rear plate exposing pump. Disconnected hoses, using dry/wet vac to catch water. Took out three screws holding pump to base of washer and removed pump, belt slipped right off. Set new pump in place and put in screws. Connected hoses, put rear plate back on. Tilted washer back and installed belt on pulleys and motor. Turned on water, plugged in washer, started to wash clothes. Washer works fine and QUIET. I have yet to find the model number on my Maytag washer. I ordered the pump by sight (good pics).

The PartSelect video was excellent and very helpful. This replacement took extra time because the washer was located in a tight space and moving/lack of access to the rear of the washer created several issues. Tips based on my experience:
1) I used a MasterLock ratchet tie-down to secure the lid when raising the hinged top of the washer (I wasn't able to lean and support this against a wall as demonstrated in the install video).
2) The fill hose that connects to the water valve was difficult to remove and I needed two large-jaw adjustable pliers to do this. A small amount of Dawn dishwasher detergent applied to the inside of the hose made re-assembly quick and easy. 3) A set-screw holds the valve in place. Easy to remove but because I couldn't get in back of the washer, I had to measure from the bottom of the valve to line-up the screw with the hole in the valve assembly to mount the new unit (this wouldn't be a problem if you could see where the screw goes but I couldn't get in back of the washer for this simple final step). Very pleased with finished result - just needed some extra time and additional tools.