CW7000W Crosley Washer - Instructions

Washer was making noise especially when spinning. I took the washer apart to clean it, That is what it really needed. Also adjusted the water level to prevent overflows which caused soap and water to get underneath into the drive belt area as well. During inspection noticed a nick in the drive belt, Although this was not really causing immediate problem wanted to repalce it to prevent problems. Ordered the belt; it came in two days with no special postage. To install, just leaned the washer over on its front on a slight incline. Took old belt off and put new on by turning the big pulley. It is spring tensioned, so no tools. This may be the easiest part repacement I ever did. Took longer to write this paragraph than to repalce the belt.

I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.

First I unplugged the machine, then turned the water supply off in order to disconnect the hoses at the back of the machine. Next I pulled the top up and leaned it back so I could access the water valve at the rear of the machine (You might have to use a screw driver to pry the top off the pins which hold it down in front...). I then unscrewed the the valve and disconnected the wiring and, in order, re-connected to the new valve. Now reverse and turn on the water and yes, the new valve fixed the hot water problem. We can now do the "whites".

Always check the basics first!

Mistakenly replaced the water valve (even though it was buzzing idicating it had power and showed 110V across terminals). Assumed the water lines were working. Turned out to be a clogged cold water line (safety valve clogged). Replaced both lines for good measure, machine working fine.

I removed four screws to remove a plate to get access to the pump. Then I removed 3 screws to remove the pump. I then put the new pump in place and put the 3 screws back in the pump. Then I put the plate back on and put the 4 screws back in. Then I put the belt on and put the washing machine back in place and connected the water lines and drain line and plugged the washing machine back in and then tested the washing machine to make sure it worked. Job completed.

Disconnect electricity....remove front panel by gently prying up lid.... Remove two small screws at corners of front panel. You may need small nutdriver here or very small hands, you can easily swivel tub out of the way....once front panel is off water pump is at the bottom right... It is only connected by two squeeze clamps and 3 nuts... This is obviously where the adjustable wrench and nutdriver come in very handy... Otherwise this job will be a bit longer....be prepared for residual water to pour out...you will need towels or a bucket....replace old with new one by reversing the process...at this point tilt the entire washer on it's backside or at least at a 45 degree angle to access the bottom... Swivel the motor away to slack up the belt...remove belt and replace in reverse order of diassembling.... Should take no more than 15 minutes.... Good luck!!!!!

The Repair went well . I had the hose on in about 30 seconds . The best part about this ordeal was the ease of finding the part on your website , and the speed of the delivery . I had my part in about 2 days , put it on and back to the fun part of clothes washing . I would recomend this company to everyone. Thanks, Rick K.

Once the washer was unplugged, i removed the two screws on the back pannel, disconnected the three wires, rubber water line, and two screws holding it to the control panel. Quite simply reversed the process with the replacement part i ordered, which arrived overnight, and the problem was solved.

Replace the motor in 25 minutes, my repair guy said it was not worth the time , I got this motor for less than $150. And save my self over $600.00, this was incredible.

Problem fix after replace Snubber ring, I also replace suspension spring and driver belt due to the fact I'm already taking it a part

first I thought there is a problem with with hoses.problems like filter or hoses blocked.after I opened the hoses they were fine .Water was going out with power .Then I opened the valve connected to the hoses . I checked these hoses withe help of a 12 volt battery . the valve was not opening so I came to the conclusion that this part is broke.is not easy to change this part.Small place and hard to unlock the hose inside .They could design this much easier with just using longer hose.But I think then nobody will call service dept.

1. Pulled top off (liquid softener dispenser section)
2. Put 2 socket extension and a 13 mm socket together with socket wrench (tool).
3. Insert tool with 13mm socket end into old agitator and unscrew bolt.
4. Remove tool and then remove old agitator.
5. Turn old agitator upside down to remove bolt.
6. Insert new agitator where old agitator was in washer.
7. Insert bolt.
8. Insert tool with 13mm socket end into old agitator and screw in bolt.
9. Pop top back on.

Hardest part was finding extensions because one wouldn't reach.

Researched "trouble shooting guide" Parts Select Website--

2 possible part failures - (1)--water fill valve inop-per Parts Select Web - 74 percent change of this unit failing.
(2)--pressure line fractured - 24 percent chance of this unit failing......

Ordered both parts from Parts Select -

Replaced water fill valve (possible solenoid failure--(although a little difficult to get at valve replacemnt was easy - total porcess took a little less than an hour).

Needless to say - problem solved with valve replacement, this machine should be "good" for at least another 5 years.

Thanks for your kind help and most important - the easy to use data...........

Spence Merrell
Dayton, Nevada

Leaned washer forward, removed clamp and old hose, replaced with new hose, reinstalling clamp.

Removed entire cabinet from base, removed drive belt, removed suspension springs, removed tub and transmission together.
Removed 6 screws from brake housing to access snubber. Didn't have the special tool to compress the spring for reassembly, but used 3 longer screws to pull the brake housing back down...worked fine. Reinstalled transmission / tub and replaced all 6 springs. Reassembled cabinet. Unit spins great now...like new.