CW20P8WS Crosley Washer - Instructions

remmoved the screws on the back that hold the panel on. removed the two hoses attched to the pump. removed three screws and pulled the pump out. spun the pulley and noticed no movement inside. looked closer at the pulley to notice it was broken. ordered new pulley online. received quickly. new part fit exacttly right. put three screws back in. hooked two hoses back up. put belt on pulley. plugged in and worked great.

Removed the inner basket and outer tub to replace the gasket and rubber seal. just had to remove about a dozen screws to get it out.

Tipped the machine up to replace the belt.
The noise didn't go away at first. I decided to spray all the pulleys with some silicone spray, that did the trick.

I took out the agitator first, then I took out the inner tub, next I took out the outer tub, and last I took out the transmission assembly. After replacing the snubber I put the transmission assembly back on, then the new outer tub and next the inner tub. Last I put the agitator back on.

Pop the top of the washer and use the nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the frontpanel on. Use the nutdriver for two more screws holding the plastic motor cover on. Use nutdriver for the two BIG screws holding the motorplate to the washer frame. After this, I literally beat/chiped/sawed the old motor geat off. Once that was done, I put the new one on; had to use a hammer to knock it all the way on (try not to damage the clips). Reassemble everything. Flip washer over and place bet around two smaller gears. Rotate main tub gear to feed belt on. Make sure you use the nutdriver to loosen/tighten the motor positioner screws in the slots if things aren't working here.
The only really hard thing was taking the old motor gear off.

Back of this washer did not remove, so we had to go in through the top--more restricting space. As you remove the old electrical metal contacts (two each of white and red), pay close attention to where they connect properly. Best to mark them so as not to confuse how to place new contacts. Also, we disconnected a white plastic hose on opposite side of top which determines load size and amount of water, so be sure to look for this.

The lid switch is on the right side top of the washer under the lid. I took a putty knife and found the clips that hold the top of the washer and pushed them to release it. I then lifted it up to fully see the lid switch. I unplugged the washer from the wall socket and took out the 2 screws that holds the lid switch in. Then unplugged the lid switch from its electrical connection and put the new one in its place. Washer is working great so far.

Disconnect Power. Disconnect supply hoses. Open top by releasing top retainer clips with a thin blade or putty knife. Remove 2 sheet metal screws retaining front cover. Remove front cover. Lay a blanket on the floor and lay the machine over on its side leaving access to the front where the panel was just removed. Take belt off. Remove pump hose at bottom of drum. Prop up drum so it is centered in its normal position and not laying to one side. Do this near the lid end. Remove all centering springs - carefully. Drum and transmission assy will now come out through the front opening. Flip drum assy upside down with transmission up. Loosen the screws (do not remove completely - WARNING OF 200 LBS SPRING LOAD!) that clamp the snubber ring to the transmission. Remove the old snubber ring and replace with new. Be sure it is completely under the flange all the way around. Tighten the retaining ring screws. Reassemble all parts in reverse order. Done. Be sure to level the machine per owners manual instructions.

1. Remove 1 screw holding each of 2 Hinges - use T15 driver. 2. Push tub to one side to get access to each screw from underside. 3. remove & replace broken Hinge Pin from Lid with T15 driver. 4. Drive broken pin out of the Hinge with a punch & hammer. 5. Install new Hinge Pin to Lid. 6. Add a little Vaseline to Hinge Pin & slide Hinge Pin into Hinge. 7. Line up Hinges to holes & re-install both Hinges with Lid. Have somebody help hold the Lid in a slight angle will make re-installation easier.

Replacing a belt on a washing machine is a pretty easy process, depending slightly on how easy it is to access the belt. On our Maytag, the belt can be accessed directly underneith the washing machine. So, I lifted the front of the machine and put a few blocks of scrap wood under the legs to hold up the front of the machine. Once that was done, there was nothing else that needed to be removed to access the pullies that the belt had to go around. The motor itself is generally adjustable to allow the belt to be changed. So, I first wrapped the belt around the largest one that spins the washin machine tub, and then wrapped it around the one that spins the water pump. Finally, I loosened the bolt on the motor to allow it to move, wrapped the belt around the motor, pulled the motor back to tighten up the belt, and tightened the bolt that holds the motor in place. It's a pretty straight forward repair that narly anyone could do thmselves.

Unhooked the macine pulled out for easy access .removed drive belt rear cover plate ,vaccumed remaining water out thru drain hose with wet and dry vac. Removed hose clamps and hoses .removed the three hex screws holding the pump to the base plate. The removed the old pump , Installed the new pump hoses access plate and belt . Hooked the machine up . Worked perfect.











the

I removed the cover on the back of the machine, detatched the 2 hoses and removed the 3 screws holding in the Vertical Style Pump - with pulley. These screws are 10 mm nut-driver. The cover if I remember correctly was a standard rather than metric so make sure you have both available.

Screwed new part in, re-attached hoses and replaced cover. The last step requires strength to hold the machine up and re-configure the belt. This is best accomplished by looping it onto the tub and the pump first, the using the tub pulley to maneuver the belt onto the motor.

Only discouragement was that it took 8 days to receive the part as the first shipment was not the correct part at the fault of the distrutor.

first i removed the front panel unclamped the hoses unscrewed the 3 screws that hold it in pulled it out, opened the new one and actually dropped it in and it fell into place with the holes lining up inserted the screws and hose clamps and reinstalled the belt which fell off when the old pump was removed, put the front back on and gave it a test then let the wife do a load of wash it worked like new

after doing some research I found out that a loose or slipping water pump belt could cause the water pump to not pump out the water correctly. Under the washer is the belt. All you do is have someone lift the front of the washer up enough that you can reach under and remove the belt. Then replace the belt back like you took it off.

pulled the machine out, tilted it backward to expose the bottom. pulled off the old belt. got the new belt started on the three pulleys. pulled the belt to spin it , and...............done !!

Piece of cake. Raise up the front of the machine. the belt slips of easy by turning the main drive wheel. put the belt on the two small one and then rotate the big wheel as you slip the belt into the grove. good idea to first clean the wheels of any old belt material that may be worn off. Piece of cake!