BTF2140ES0 Crosley Washer - Instructions

New part installed as per repair video - no problems.

I started by removing the two screws at the back of the washer and taking the top off of the washing machine. Than I removed the two screws securing the door lok and switch assembly. I disconected the two or three electrical connections and install the new one in the reverse order.

The replacement of the Shock Absorber Kit was hampered on the right side by a metal box that was mounted just a little shorter than the bottom plastic pin. the deadblow hammer with the dowel worked with all the pins including the impeded pin and the top right pin which had to be removed at an angle. The replacement did not repair the washer - it is the tub bearing which went in a previous washer of a similar model about 4 years ago.

The part ordering and arrival was very easy and fast. Problem with the directions on removing the damaged drum vane. They were not clear directions. Once I figured out what needed to be done it went easy

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

Took door lock switch out and fished out broken part. Reinstalled switch and installed new striker. Problem solved. Ordered extra striker just in case.

removed the two screws that were attached to the old door and put the new door on.

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

With breakdown maual, I diassembled the door and reinstalled the glass and rehung the door and closed it. Turned on the machine and the bottom of the glass does not meet the rubber seal on the washer opening.

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

Replaced drain pump using this walk through. Different models, but pretty straight forward.

The parts came with instructions They stated to remove the front panel. This only gets to one side for a difficult repair. I removed the back panel then it was a snap. Easiest with two people.

I removed the front access cover and the rear cover. It was also necessary to remove the water level sensor (attached to the tub drain hose) to access one of the shocks. Not having a 1/2" deep socket, I used a 2" piece of 1/2" copper pipe to depress the locking tab on the shock attachment pins--worked great. Pulled the pins out with pliers. Putting the pins back in after replacing the shocks was easiest to do using 'channel-lock' pliers to grab the bracket and the pin head and squeeze in the pin. The only problem was that my copper pipe piece fell into the drain hose when removing one of the pins! Had to take the drain hose loose to fish it out.

Remove front panel to expose shocks. It took some time to remove the old shocks, both were broken. The pins were somewhat difficult to reach and remove, especially the one on right for it was shoved up against the electric wiring box. We ended up putting that pin in backwards for the new shock because it was impossible to reach from rear. Putting the new shocks was easy it was removing the old ones that took most of the time. The washing machine is working perfectly now.