LW1000W Amana Washer - Instructions

I removed the 4 bolts that hold the drive motor in place, then tipped the motor on it's side and removed the 3 allen screws that hold the pump in place. Then just reversed the process.

remove front panel. unplug motor. remove 4 screws and take motor,pump,idler and belt assembly out. remove pump from bottom of motor. 3 screws held pump and drove off with hammer. replace idler and install belt before new pump. install pump. reinstall assembly. works good now.

Unpluged washer, turned off water supply, removed front covers, removed spring on right side to allow drum to lean over, removed the 2 hoses from pump, removed motor (4 bolts), removed 3 screws holding pump. Installed a new belt and replaced the pump. I replaced the hoses on the pump, replaced the spring, and turned on the water, plugged in the washer, turned it on and hoped for the best. Worked fine, no leaks or problems.

Unhooked the idler pully spring, removed the 2 hoses from the pump outlets, unhooked the idler pulley srring to slaken the drive belt tension, removed 4 bolts from the motor mount to drop the motor, and slipped the drive belt off the transmission pulley.

Removed 3 torx screws that secure the pump. The pump was stuck to the motor motor shaft from corrosion and had to knock the pump off with a hammer. Reassembly was a breeze.

The most serious problem I had was a black widow spider lurking under the transmission pulley. Never did get it!

First I unscrewed the bottom of the front panel.
Then I realized the front panel pulls off from the top.
(manuals are helpful only if read!) I took the tub hose off at the tub and used my wet vac to remove all the excess water. (no towel needed) Using the appropriate size torx head bit, an extension and a small socket wrench to undo the screws holding the pump. I had to push and pull the bottom of the tub slightly to get proper room for the small socket wrench. pull the pump down and off. take the hoses off and place them on the new pump. reverse the process. tighten the clamps and replace the front cover.

Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.

I removed the front lower panel. I disconnected the springs holding the motor to the chassis. I removed the belt off the pump pulley. Pay attention to the way the belt runs from the pulley and through the pump. This will aid in placing the pump back on so the belt runs correctly. Disconnected the wires, removed the capacitor bracket so I could take the motor/pump unit out after I removed the 4 bolts holding the motor/pump unit. Removed the 3 torx screws holding the pump to the motor. Matched the new pump to the old to make sure the new one was correct.

Installed in reverse order.

I seemed to have a more difficult time changing the pump out than others who had left their instructions on line prior to me.
What I has to do is remove the 4 bolts that secured the motor & mount to the frame. I then unplugged the wire harness from the motor leads.
I removed the belt tensioning spring & removed the belt.
I then removed the motor, motor mount and pump assembly. Turned it upside down & removed the pump. When installing the new pump you will need to remember how the belt was routed. A local parts house actually gave me a xeroxed schematic that showed me how to route it. A real life saver.
After that I turned the assembly right side up, bolted the mount into place, installed the new belt onto the large flywheel, attached the belt tension spring, plugged in the wiring harness and ran a rinse cycle. No leaks. Good as new.
Yes. It took a little longer than expected. But it was alot cheaper than having a service man do it.

We noticed that water was on the ground of the laundry room. We initially thought that the washer was leaking. Realized that the washer was going on the spin cycle without draining the water which caused the water the slosh over the edges and then leak on the floor. Well, I had to remove all the wet clothes and suck the water out with a shop vaccuum-this actually took most of the time. After taking the front of the washer off, we noticed the water pump was stripped out. After removing the pump, we then noticed one of our kid's socks jammed in the pump. How the sock got there is still a mistery. We found the replacement part on PartSelect and ordering was easy and fast. Thanks. We're washing clothes again.

Wow! My husband and I researched the problem online and ordered the part after reading from others how to take the machine apart. We are very unhandy, so we felt quite an accomplishment fixing the drain hose with rubber elbow ourselves! Thank you for the diagrams that so clearly showed the part we needed to order.

replaced belt that was wore out. decided to replace pump while I had washer apart.

I was at work but a friend of ours and my husband did the repair. But what I was impressed about is how fast we got the part. thanks a lot

remove front cover disconnect water supply remove hose clamp,take drain line replace with new hose reconnect water supply replace front cover job complete.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

My Amana washing machine burned up a second belt in about three weeks. Prior to that, the spin cycle was very loud. Online research revealed the problem was most likely the hub bearing. I ordered a new bearing, belt and hub and seal kit. The repair is a difficult one as the parts have been on the tranmission shaft many years with the mounting corrosion and mineral build up. I was able to pull the agitator off with no problem. The drive bell would have been easier to pull had I used a gear puller but did not own one. I use two crow bars to lift it off the shaft and I knew I'd be replacing it anyway so was not concerned about damaging it although I didn't. The most difficult part to remove was the large hex nut. I didn't want to purchase the tool to remove it so I used an open end adjustable wrench adn a hammer to remove it. However it took many hours of soaking the nut in sprayed on WD-40 to loosen it. For a while I thought it wasn't going to budge. Oh and btw, the nut comes off counterclockwise on this model. This is important. Other makes of washers have left handed threads, requiring clockwise removal, but this one does not. The hub assembly was pulled using the crow bar method. Again, it was going to be replaced anyway. The lint filter was cleaned and reused. The remainder of the dissassembly went OK using the directions in the repair manual. http://www.scribd.com/doc/8677902/Amana-Top-Load-Washer-Service-Manual. Reassembly went fine using the repair manual accept that the new drive bell was much more difficult to drive onto the shaft than I thought it would be. I eventually got it on using my shop vac rigid tube to go around it and hammering on a block of wood placed on top of it. I also used this shop vac tube to seat the seal that goes on the shaft just before the drive bell. It was the perfect tool for it as I wasn't going to purchase the special tool suggested in the repair manual. I'd already purchased $185 in parts. The kits come with grease but not the anti seizure compound or the industrial sealant needed. The anti seisure compound can be purchased from an auto parts store. It's not expensive. The industrial sealant is expensive. After researching what it was and why it was needed, I took a chance on silicone sealant. I'm not suggesting it is a good substitute but my washer has not leaked after 5 loads. Plus the sealant is really a backup to the main seal that goes on the transmission shaft before the hub assembly. But I'm pleased overall with the parts and accompanying directions and the washer is working great, spinning quietly. This is not an easy repair. It takes patience and a place to work on it. Frankly, with other things to do as well as go to work, it took me four days to complete, mostly due to the difficulty in removing the large hex nut. It might be worth investing in the removal tool if you're unsuccessful using home tools. Good luck.