LW6001W2-PLW6001W2B Amana Washer - Instructions

We did not have instructions on how to remove broken agitator. Looking online, we found easy instructions but found it difficult to remove the agitator even though it was supposed to be an easy task.
Our particular model was supposed to "pop" off with little resistance. Not so!
It took some stong muscle and will power to remove the part but putting the new agitator on was simple.

remove front cover disconnect water supply remove hose clamp,take drain line replace with new hose reconnect water supply replace front cover job complete.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Since the agitator and bell housing seperated as once piece from the drive shaft I didn't have to remove them and the schematic showed how the agitator snapped on to the bell housing and the parts I needed for the fix. The new seal went on with no problem, I just used some of the supplied grease on the tight spots. The hardest part was attaching the bell housing. It came to within an inch of the top of the shaft with no problem with a rubber hammer. But the top screw shroud broke when I tried to hammer it the rest of the way using a wood dowel and a block of wood. I couldn't even get the threads of the supplied screw to even touch the drive shaft. So I bought a longer (1 inch) cap screw from the hardware store and added a washer and suplied ring. After torqing it to 5 ft-lbs instead of the 10-20 the plastic beneath the screw was looking kind of thin and stressed and I was afraid of it breaking through or the screw snapping off in the shaft, so I left it alone and used some silicone caulk to seal in the plug that goes in on top of the screw since the side of the shroud broke off. I slipped on the agitator and am testing a load now as we speak. If I get ten more years out of the washer it will definitely be worth the $100 in parts and shipping !

As described by your information. Also watched your videos about repair. Your web site is amazing and we WILL use it in the future. We have a perfectly running washing machine once again. Thank You!!

Unplug the electrical cord. Remove the front cover with two screws at the bottom. Unhook the front two springs on the tub that secure it to the floor of the machine. Tilt the tub back as far as possible. Remove the electrical connector to the motor at the motor with the plastic tab release. Remove the four screws that attach the motor mount to the floor of the washer. Unhook the two hoses that attach to the pump on the motor bottom. Catch the water in a towel or in a flat tray. Unloop the belt from around the pulley on the bottom of the washer tub shaft and remove the motor, pump and belt as a unit. Remove the brake pads by removing the single bolt atop each one and pull it out of the machine. This will take the longest amount of time. You will have trouble getting the new pads in position, especially the one at the back. You many need to gently spread the brake disks to allow the pads to enter using a padded screw driver. Lightly lubricate the new brake pads before installing with silicone grease and replace the bolt and grommet with the new ones provided on each. Using a torx screwdriver, remove the pump from the motor and discard the worn belt. Remove the idler pulley using snap ring pliers and replace with a new one. Install the new belt and idler. Replace the pump with a new one, or reuse the old one if it seems in good repair and is not too old (mine was 15 years old--I replaced it). Remount the motor, pulley and belt on the machine and secure with 4 bolts--loop the belt around the main pulley on tub shaft. Reattach the hoses to the pump. Reconnect the electrical supply to the motor. Rehook the two spring to the front of the tub. Plug the washer back into the wall outlet. Pour in a couple of gallons of water into the tub before starting to ensure that the pump does not operate in a dry condition. Start and test operation. Be Happy. Wash hands and have a cold one.

Disconnected wire harness. Loosened belt by slipping off main pulley. Removed motor/pump assembly (easy so far). Had some difficulty separating pump off motor shaft. Shaft had rusted into the plastic pump socket. Cleaned shaft with sandpaper. Reassembly with new belt and pump was easy.

My neighbor did the repair for me and I believe the instructions sent were the reason he had no trouble installing it.

First thing I did was to read the great information from other customers. John from Milton's post titled "frayed v belt" was excellent; so was Joseph from Goldsboro NC under the Pump part posts. I would add the following info which wasn't readily available. The Torx/starbit size mentioned in the posts referenced is a T25 the Amana lw8203w2 I have. I bought a t25 size torx wrench at my local hardware store for $2. I got everything together --the belt took some arm strength for an amateur like me to get on. Also, would recommend gloves as some of the edges are sharp down there. Everything appeared okay and when I started the spin cycle it started then cut off. I thought maybe besides the fan belt there was electronics faulty. However, I found an amana repair guide for my model online at scribd and under the troubleshooting section, it described the cutout of the spin cycle and if the new fan belt is too tight, it will bind and the spin cycle will cut out. So I opened up the front again and worked the belt for several turns to "stretch it" and voila, it worked perfectly.

Although the Maytag website no longer had a repair manual in their database, I was able to locate one fairly easily online. After removing the motor/washer pump, it was easy to remove the 3 screws holding the washer pump to the motor. Unfortunately, it turned out the motor hub shaft had corroded and removing the pump needed some ... persuasion. Patience and a rubber mallet eventually separated the water pump from the motor. Re-installing went quickly and, so far, no leaks and the washing machine has not started walking across the floor.

Removed the tension spring from the belt retention belt, removed the belt from the large pulley in the back of the washer, removed the 4 bolts holding in the motor and washer pump, removed wiring harness, disconnected the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump and pulled out the motor and the washer pump. Turned the motor over and using the Torx driver (#20) removed the 3 bolts holding on the pump. Gently wiggled and pried the washer pump off of the motor, replaced the pump and tightened down the Torx bolts carefully so the pump didn't crack or break it is just plastic, but had to be sure the pump was seated tightly so the pump would fit back into place and also so it wouldn't leak, after making sure it was tightly attached I reversed the process to put it back together.

After pulling front lower panel off, disconnected idler pulley spring and left side tub stabilizer spring to allow room to get motor out the front. Took belt off transmision pulley, unbolted 4 motor mount bolts, dropped the motor/pump assembly down and disconnected the electrical plug (motor). Took motor/pump assembly out, flipped it over, unbolted 3 pump bolts to remove old pump, which came right off. Then reversed the whole process. Pretty straightforward, just time.

The hardest part was removing the tub from washer by myself. I simply removed the bolts holding the sides to the bottom of the unit and lifted it straight off. Be careful when you remove the springs from the drum so they don't spring back and puncture the drain line. Thank you RTV gasket maker. Once the drum was free from the base, i tilted the drum back exposing the pump housing. I used a pair of pliers to remove both drain lines then removed the 3 hex screws freeing the pump. I had no problem removing it from the motor shaft, it slipped right off. I put everything back together as easily as it came apart.

Removed old hose, drained the water from the hose. Put new hose on.

detached 2 inlet/ oulet hose/ hose clamps.removed the 4 motor/ pump base screws, tilted motor/ pump assembly and pulled from washer. Removed the 3 pump housing screws, removed pump/ old drive belt. installed new drive belt, pump, reattached pump screws, motor/ pump base screws, reattached hose/ hose clamp. Rreplacement of parts took approxmiatley 30 minutes.