6492-LWM-251 Amana Washer - Instructions

The new hose was exactly like the one I removed. It was simply a matter of putting the new hose through the back, replacing the hose clamp, take the piece off the old hose that makes the bend in the hose to go in the wall drain. Replace the lower front panel with two screws and I was done.

remove six screws: three along top of the control panel, three along front bottom of control panel. Pull control panel loose. Unscrew the timer knob by twisting it counter-clockwise. Remove the timer, unplug the timer quick-connect, replace timer and reinstall timer and control panel by reverse.

My Amana washing machine burned up a second belt in about three weeks. Prior to that, the spin cycle was very loud. Online research revealed the problem was most likely the hub bearing. I ordered a new bearing, belt and hub and seal kit. The repair is a difficult one as the parts have been on the tranmission shaft many years with the mounting corrosion and mineral build up. I was able to pull the agitator off with no problem. The drive bell would have been easier to pull had I used a gear puller but did not own one. I use two crow bars to lift it off the shaft and I knew I'd be replacing it anyway so was not concerned about damaging it although I didn't. The most difficult part to remove was the large hex nut. I didn't want to purchase the tool to remove it so I used an open end adjustable wrench adn a hammer to remove it. However it took many hours of soaking the nut in sprayed on WD-40 to loosen it. For a while I thought it wasn't going to budge. Oh and btw, the nut comes off counterclockwise on this model. This is important. Other makes of washers have left handed threads, requiring clockwise removal, but this one does not. The hub assembly was pulled using the crow bar method. Again, it was going to be replaced anyway. The lint filter was cleaned and reused. The remainder of the dissassembly went OK using the directions in the repair manual. http://www.scribd.com/doc/8677902/Amana-Top-Load-Washer-Service-Manual. Reassembly went fine using the repair manual accept that the new drive bell was much more difficult to drive onto the shaft than I thought it would be. I eventually got it on using my shop vac rigid tube to go around it and hammering on a block of wood placed on top of it. I also used this shop vac tube to seat the seal that goes on the shaft just before the drive bell. It was the perfect tool for it as I wasn't going to purchase the special tool suggested in the repair manual. I'd already purchased $185 in parts. The kits come with grease but not the anti seizure compound or the industrial sealant needed. The anti seisure compound can be purchased from an auto parts store. It's not expensive. The industrial sealant is expensive. After researching what it was and why it was needed, I took a chance on silicone sealant. I'm not suggesting it is a good substitute but my washer has not leaked after 5 loads. Plus the sealant is really a backup to the main seal that goes on the transmission shaft before the hub assembly. But I'm pleased overall with the parts and accompanying directions and the washer is working great, spinning quietly. This is not an easy repair. It takes patience and a place to work on it. Frankly, with other things to do as well as go to work, it took me four days to complete, mostly due to the difficulty in removing the large hex nut. It might be worth investing in the removal tool if you're unsuccessful using home tools. Good luck.

Removed the back plate. Disconnected the inside water hose. Unplugged the electrical contacts. Pulled out the old valve, connected the water hoses to the valve, plugged in the electrical contacts, reconnected the inside water hose, and put the plate back on the washer. The hardest part was putting the plate back on the washer. This entire repair would have been exceptionally easy except that I had to sit on top of the washer and hang upside down to do the repair due to the extremely small space the washer was in.

Unplugged washer, turned water valves off, disconnected water lines from washer with adjustable channel-lock wrench. Water inlet valve was mounted on its own plate that needed removed using a screw driver. Disconnected the electric sensors and disconnected the outlet hose. Valve had to be taken off the mounting plate with a nutdriver. Replaced valve and reconnected everything. Water pumped in 10 times faster.

As another person commented, there is a small 'door' on the rear where the water inlet is located. Don't know if this was meant for easy access to change this part or not but I didn't use it. I found it much easier to just remove the front panel (2 lower corner screws), loosen the top (2 corner screws) and tilt it up and out of the way. From there it was easy to disconnect the hoses and four electrical plugs (easy to remember the order). The unit is held in place by one screw which is located between the water inlets.

Removed old hose, drained the water from the hose. Put new hose on.

this replacement will fit in , but be gentle screwing in knob and do not tighten to let it seat all the way, otherwise it will be difficult to unscrew. tighten until it just snag and no more, plate guide will follow thru, by hand of course.