DA3821 Amana Washer - Instructions

Shut off water supply, unplugged washer power, removed supply hoses from old washer valve assembly, removed valve mounting plate and removed old valve assembly from mounting plate, diagrammed and disconnected hot and cold solenoid valve wiring and removed valve assembly outlet hose. Installed and connected new valve, performing the preceding steps in reverse order. pressurized new valve, verified valve function and checked for leaks and placed washer back in service.

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.

open top of washer
remove two screws that hold water inlet valve
disconnect four wires and hose;replace new water inlet valve and reversed operation
everything went well

Did the same as others. Loosened the three screws diconnected the wires and put them on the new valve. Disconnected fill hose and connected to new valve. 10-15 minutes. Replaced panel and tested new part. perfect, My repair was a little longer, I vaccumed up all the dust bunnies I could find before moving washer back. Good for another 35 years, I hope. Thanks for the help and experiences.

Solved theprobel m by noticiing the HOT water filled the tub and it began to run when it was full. Figured out it was the solenoid valve. Ordered a new one. Simple to install and then it ran just fiine.

First turned off water and unplugged washer. Removed hoses and then removed bracket. The new part needed the bracket from the old mixer which was no problem - 3 screws. Removed electrical plugs from old mixer-placed on new one.No problems - worked like new. Thanks for your prompt shipment and the good illustrations of the parts when I was searching.. Also, half the price of local parts houses and it would still have to be ordered.

Washer is enclosed in a walled partition. I spent more time moving the washer out so I could get to the back of the machine. Due to Maytag's design of a removal sheet metal panel holding the valve the entire water valve replacement was performed outside of the machine. The replacement valve was an exact duplicate and made it a simple swap out. More time was spent removing inlet hoses and outlet hose then in actual valve replacement.

First thing unpluged power cord from wall outlet, removed hot and cold water supply hoses.Then took out srew holding metal plate ,pulled plate out exposing valve, marked wires and diconnected.Pulled clamp and hose from valve.Pulled out valve and reinstalled new.Reconnected wires and hose.Installed screw to hold in place, reconnected hot and cold supply hoses.Plug unit back in. Job done.Washer works like new.

followed simple directions... no brainer.
just be careful - shut off water and unlug first.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.

My husband did the repair. Since he owned a laundry quite a few years ago, he knew what he was doing. After hooking everything back up, the cold water was coming in hot. When hooking up the hoses, he had hooked the cold into the top intake. After watching the online video, he realized that the plate that was to be installed over the hoses, on the back of the washer, clearly stated "H" on top and "C" on the bottom. So we switched the position of the hoses and everything ran perfectly after that. I would suggest to ANYONE doing this repair, to watch the online video first, before starting, because it is very, very helpful.

installation was difficult because the "universal" valve was a different size than the original. The solenoids were taller on the replacement valve, could not use the mounting bracket because the unit could not fit in the confined space. I also don't know why the water outlet nipple had to be smaller on the new assembly, requiring the use of a Rube Goldberg piece of tubing.

Basically the instructional video video for replacing the valve was great, but pretty obvious. Unplugged the machine. Shut off the water and disconnected the hoses (if the shutoffs are old you might need a pipe wrench or large pliers to get them completely shut off). I kept an old towel on the floor to sop up drippage. Removed the screw that holds the plate, then the two that hold the valve, all with 1/4 inch socket driver. Remove wires, loosen hose clamp on inlet hose but make sure it won't fall down into the machine. The video showed how to rotate the contacts so that they were aimed the same as on my old valve - pry up on the frame with a screwdriver and rotate until it clicks into the other slot. Just reverse the procedure with the new valve - orange and white wires to top (hot) valve, blue and white to cold. 15-20 minutes if all goes well. Note, the plate and valve attachment screws may not all be the same length even though they look the same. My problems were due to the very old washing machine. The clamp for the inlet hose was an old type that could not be loosened and had to be torn apart, luckily I had a modern 1/2 inch clamp on hand to replace it with. I had to bend the plate a little to get the attachment screw hole to line up with the hole in the washer. Also the connecting hose washers were too old and had to be replaced. I would suggest replacing these in any case and using a large pliers to get them snugly tightened.

Had to take the back off to replace valve