AWM190W2 (PAWM190W2) Amana Washer - Instructions

Unpluged washer, turned off water supply, removed front covers, removed spring on right side to allow drum to lean over, removed the 2 hoses from pump, removed motor (4 bolts), removed 3 screws holding pump. Installed a new belt and replaced the pump. I replaced the hoses on the pump, replaced the spring, and turned on the water, plugged in the washer, turned it on and hoped for the best. Worked fine, no leaks or problems.

Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.

I was at work but a friend of ours and my husband did the repair. But what I was impressed about is how fast we got the part. thanks a lot

Wow! My husband and I researched the problem online and ordered the part after reading from others how to take the machine apart. We are very unhandy, so we felt quite an accomplishment fixing the drain hose with rubber elbow ourselves! Thank you for the diagrams that so clearly showed the part we needed to order.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

remove front cover disconnect water supply remove hose clamp,take drain line replace with new hose reconnect water supply replace front cover job complete.

Although the Maytag website no longer had a repair manual in their database, I was able to locate one fairly easily online. After removing the motor/washer pump, it was easy to remove the 3 screws holding the washer pump to the motor. Unfortunately, it turned out the motor hub shaft had corroded and removing the pump needed some ... persuasion. Patience and a rubber mallet eventually separated the water pump from the motor. Re-installing went quickly and, so far, no leaks and the washing machine has not started walking across the floor.

Removed the tension spring from the belt retention belt, removed the belt from the large pulley in the back of the washer, removed the 4 bolts holding in the motor and washer pump, removed wiring harness, disconnected the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump and pulled out the motor and the washer pump. Turned the motor over and using the Torx driver (#20) removed the 3 bolts holding on the pump. Gently wiggled and pried the washer pump off of the motor, replaced the pump and tightened down the Torx bolts carefully so the pump didn't crack or break it is just plastic, but had to be sure the pump was seated tightly so the pump would fit back into place and also so it wouldn't leak, after making sure it was tightly attached I reversed the process to put it back together.

Be sure to shut the water off before doing anything and to drain as much water from the drum/hoses as best as possible!!! The repair was straightforward. I took the front panel off by removing 2 screws located at the bottom and angling the bottom away from the housing until I could pull down on the front panel to free it from the tension clips holding the top part of the front panel in place. This exposes the motor which is easily accessible at the front of the washer. Before doing anything you need to get the remaining water out of the drum and hoses. Best advice I can give is to have plenty of towels laid down to catch the water I have linoleum so this wasn't too bad but if on carpet you need to place the washer over the towels to catch the water and there is a significant amount even though none was seen in the tub/drum or hoses. After draining out the water. Before removing screws you need to remove the drive belt by moving the pulley so that the tension on the belt is relaxed so you can remove the belt by slipping it off the motor pulley and drum in a downward direction. Once the belt is off you can removed the four screws to the motor. disconnect the hose from the washer pump. slide the entire assembly out. you can now work freely with the motor away from the washer. My motor was seized up complete as I could not turn the shaft at all (thus the burning smell). Since I ordered just the motor and v-style drive belt, I needed to remove part of the sheet metal housing to get the washer pump which was still good off the bad motor and onto the new motor. I just reversed the process to put it all back together which is easier because you don't have to worry about draining any water!! My advice is if you are changing the motor replace the belt as well (I did - mine was severely frayed and cracked) since its all exposed anyway. Total time was 1-2 hrs if taking your time.

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.

My neighbor did the repair for me and I believe the instructions sent were the reason he had no trouble installing it.

I purchsaed a new water valve and it was very easy to install. I hate to do thos kind of repair but it went very smooth. Took maybe a half hour, and now it works like new.

Removed the front panel, could see water leaking from the tub area near the shaft in the center of the machine. Dripping out once the water level reached the hub. Swing the top up, remove the large plastic ring at top of tub. remove the top of the agitor, pulls off easily. Remove the agitator with a firm pull up, not as easy but does come off. Removed the 4 bolt holding the tub. 2 broke off, but not to worry, the new kit has a complete hub. Pulled off the bell seal, pry up. Used an impact gun with 1-1/2" socket to remove the nut. The hub was frozen to the shaft. Tried a puller but ended up breaking the hub. I finally cut it off in pieces and pryed it off (the hardest part of job). Cleaned up the spline with a small file and patience. Installed the new seal kit. Ended up buying the M800 3M sealant on line. I went this far, another $40 for that. Fitted it all back up per instructions. No leaks. All good.

Put new motor in, and it did the same thing as old motor. Obviously, motor wasn't the problem. Looking for answers on what the problem could be.

remove motor and pump togather 4 bolts holding unhook two hose unplug electrial connector and slide out remove 3 screws holding pump to motor be aware of direction belt from moter to tub then place new pump back at same location as old pump replace motor with pump attached back to same location as begfor