TAA400 (P7704002W) Amana Washer - Instructions

VERY EASY!!!
SAFETY FIRST-Always unplug the appliance.
Use 8mm socket to remove front panel screws. Loosened up two hose clamps connected to the pump and removed both lines (Hoses contain water, use a towel) which is located underneath the motor. Disconnect motor electrical connector on the left side of the motor. With socket, remove 4 mounting bracket screws that secure the motor and pump assembly. Pull back the tension/idler pulley to loosen belt off the main pulley to the washer drum. Tilt and pull out motor/pump assembly. Underneath the pump, use star-bit to remove the pump from motor assembly to remove the belt. Install new belt on motor pulley (Good time to check for debris or anything restricing free movement of pump) and re-install pump. Install the motor/pump assembly and loosely secure the motor/pump assembly. Place the belt onto the motor pulley and pull back the tensioner/idler pulley to allow slack of belt to be placed on washer drum pulley. Put the belt on the lip of the drum pulley and rotate while pulling back the tensioner/idler pulley until the belt is seated on the groove of the drum pulley. Tighten the motor/pump assembley. Re-attach the 2 hoses and tighten down the clamps. Re-connect the electrical connector to the motor...Don't forget to plug in the washer and secure the front panel...Piece 'O cake, you're done! About 15 minutes to do the job. Much like changing a belt on most vehicles.

This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as this is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.

Unplug the washer
Took off the front with nut driver to two fasteners at the bottom.
Took off two tub springs using channel lock pliers.
Tipped the tub back for more hand room.
Took brake bolts off with box end wrench.
Put Screw driver above brake clamps and pried down to make the old brake pads drop down below the seats and then take brakes off. You might have to use a screw driver to expand the brake clamps so they will release the brake. (brake clamps look like a pulley but the edges will spread some bit.)
Twisted large screw driver between the brake clamps and pushed new brake in as far as would go while beside (to the left or right of) the brake seat.
Pried brake clamps down and rotated brake around until it is lined up with the brake seat. Then pried pads up into the seat.
Re-twisted large screw driver between the brake clamps to separate them and pulled the brake pad back to within 1/8th to 1/16th inch of the back. This lined up the bolt hole.
Inserted the bolt with rubber grommett into the brake pad hole and twisted it counter clockwise and tightened with wrench. (If the bolt would not thread, then you have to adjust the brake pad forward or backward until the holes line up.) Tighten the bolt until it is firmly tight.

There are three brakes. Each is installed the same way. The one in back required a little cross legged contortion for me to reach around both sides of the motor and two front brake pad mounts. The key is lining up the bolt hole in the brake pad with the mount. I pretty well had it figured out after the second pad install. Time for me.. 4 hours. Cost, leg cramps, sore muscles from awkward positions, and the joy of not having to buy a new washer.

Return the springs to the tub on the front. Close front panel and return the two fasteners with the nut drivers.

How did I know I needed the brakes? When in agitation mode the tub spun the opposite direction of the spin cycle. When the agitator turned the opposite direction, the water inside went into a very strong vortex and sometimes sloshed out the top or around the top edges When there were a lot of clothes and a high fill level in the tub. We also had trouble with straps winding around the agitator. The tub spun so quickly that the water without agitation was driven to the top outer edges of the tub by centrifugal force.

This was my fist time attempting to fix a washer. I had to guess on the length of the belt since the model number on the machine had worn off and the belt had snapped in a way that made determining the length difficult. At first, I ordered a belt that was too small. I realized this after I was unable to remount the motor stand onto the bottom of the machine. This model had the motor assembly right in front of the unit. It was easily accessed after removing the panel on the front of the machine. It was easy to remove the 4 screws (they were all visible) on the motor stand. After that I was able to disconnect the pump belt. This machine has seperate belts for agitation and the pump. The pump belt must be removed in order to install the agitator belt because they both are driven by the same shaft and the pump belt is positioned on the bottom. There is also a tension wheel for the agitator belt which might be easily overlooked. Make sure to install the agitator belt so that the tension wheel is on the outside of the belt's path. The whole job is fairly easy if you have the right part to begin with. If you have to force the belt onto the wheels, then you probably have a belt that is too small.

Three brake pads are located just above the drive pulley and space symmetrically around the brake wheel. Remove the one screw per brake, slide brake out of brake wheel and replace with new brake. Apply silicone grease to new brakes before installing. Tools: 5/16 boxed end wrench.

The only real problem was one spring loaded hose clamp to the rear of the pump. If it had been a standard clamp like the others I would have cut the repair time down by 2/3rd's. I did find that by removing one of the long wash drum springs, I then had more room to get my channellocks back there to get the stupid clamp to compress, and then used a screw driver to push the clamp back off the the connecting port. I replaced the camp w/ a standard clamp and the reassembly went quick and easy. Note, If you replace the pump drive belt with a new one, you WILL have to adjust the belt tension after a few minutes use.

Released idler pulley and replaced belt

After removing the front panel I was able to reach the bolts holding the brake pads in place. Without the above mentioned ratcheting end wrench it would have been very difficult to start the bolts while replacing them. I would probably consider removing the motor if I had to do this again. It would give a lot better access. no real difficulty other than hard to reach.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

It was easy, All we had to do was loosen up the tension on the pump, put the new belt back on and put the tension back on the pump motor by sliding it to the side and re tighten the screws to hold the pump tight.

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

took the drive belt to the pump off then put the belt for the drum on .then put the belt for pump back on. basickly this unit is one of the easist to work on

Removed the old pump and installed the new one, works great!

Un plug machine. Turn off hot & cold water. Remove the front panel by removing the 2 screws at the botton & lift front from the bottom until it unhinges from the top. Tilt the washer back far enough to put a contaner to catch the water left in the hoses. Loosing the hose clamps so the water comes out slowly. If you remove the hose to fast your container won't catch the water. Do one hose at a time. Next disconnect the wiring harnes from the motor. Remove the 4 screws holding the pump/motor. Disconnect the belt from the washer. You will have to tilt the pump/motor to get slack in the belt. Remove the pump/motor & the belt will come with it. This is when I found that the belt was toast & I had to order a belt. Paid shipping twice. once for pump & once for belt. Seperate pump from motor by removing 3 screws. My pump came right off. Reverse the operation to install. REMEMBER TO PUT THE BELT ON BEFORE THE PUMP.

Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.