LWS04AW (PLWS04AW) Amana Washer - Instructions

tilt the washer back removed bottom panal .removed bracket holding motor took motor out removed 3 scewer holding pump. took belt off put new one on. about 45 mins pretty easy job

Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.

Pulled the old knob off and replaced with new knob
PartSelect sent me the exact part you can't tell the difference.

I removed the front lower panel. I disconnected the springs holding the motor to the chassis. I removed the belt off the pump pulley. Pay attention to the way the belt runs from the pulley and through the pump. This will aid in placing the pump back on so the belt runs correctly. Disconnected the wires, removed the capacitor bracket so I could take the motor/pump unit out after I removed the 4 bolts holding the motor/pump unit. Removed the 3 torx screws holding the pump to the motor. Matched the new pump to the old to make sure the new one was correct.

Installed in reverse order.

I was at work but a friend of ours and my husband did the repair. But what I was impressed about is how fast we got the part. thanks a lot

replaced belt that was wore out. decided to replace pump while I had washer apart.

Wow! My husband and I researched the problem online and ordered the part after reading from others how to take the machine apart. We are very unhandy, so we felt quite an accomplishment fixing the drain hose with rubber elbow ourselves! Thank you for the diagrams that so clearly showed the part we needed to order.

We did not have instructions on how to remove broken agitator. Looking online, we found easy instructions but found it difficult to remove the agitator even though it was supposed to be an easy task.
Our particular model was supposed to "pop" off with little resistance. Not so!
It took some stong muscle and will power to remove the part but putting the new agitator on was simple.

remove front cover disconnect water supply remove hose clamp,take drain line replace with new hose reconnect water supply replace front cover job complete.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Since the agitator and bell housing seperated as once piece from the drive shaft I didn't have to remove them and the schematic showed how the agitator snapped on to the bell housing and the parts I needed for the fix. The new seal went on with no problem, I just used some of the supplied grease on the tight spots. The hardest part was attaching the bell housing. It came to within an inch of the top of the shaft with no problem with a rubber hammer. But the top screw shroud broke when I tried to hammer it the rest of the way using a wood dowel and a block of wood. I couldn't even get the threads of the supplied screw to even touch the drive shaft. So I bought a longer (1 inch) cap screw from the hardware store and added a washer and suplied ring. After torqing it to 5 ft-lbs instead of the 10-20 the plastic beneath the screw was looking kind of thin and stressed and I was afraid of it breaking through or the screw snapping off in the shaft, so I left it alone and used some silicone caulk to seal in the plug that goes in on top of the screw since the side of the shroud broke off. I slipped on the agitator and am testing a load now as we speak. If I get ten more years out of the washer it will definitely be worth the $100 in parts and shipping !

My neighbor did the repair for me and I believe the instructions sent were the reason he had no trouble installing it.

After pulling front lower panel off, disconnected idler pulley spring and left side tub stabilizer spring to allow room to get motor out the front. Took belt off transmision pulley, unbolted 4 motor mount bolts, dropped the motor/pump assembly down and disconnected the electrical plug (motor). Took motor/pump assembly out, flipped it over, unbolted 3 pump bolts to remove old pump, which came right off. Then reversed the whole process. Pretty straightforward, just time.

knife to losen top, remove rear tabs securing top, unplug electical from timer and switches, unplug front door wiring, 2 bolts remove front, lift front pannel to remove. tape belt on drum on top. under drum you can see the belt around worn pulley. lift idler pulley assembly, remove belt from pulley, snap ring holds pulley in place remove woren pulley, install new, replace snap ring, restring belt. remove tape. spin drum to assure alignment. reassemble.

Although the Maytag website no longer had a repair manual in their database, I was able to locate one fairly easily online. After removing the motor/washer pump, it was easy to remove the 3 screws holding the washer pump to the motor. Unfortunately, it turned out the motor hub shaft had corroded and removing the pump needed some ... persuasion. Patience and a rubber mallet eventually separated the water pump from the motor. Re-installing went quickly and, so far, no leaks and the washing machine has not started walking across the floor.