DLW330RAW Amana Washer - Instructions

Replacing the spin belt is like the others have said, but I'll add a couple of cautions. Don't try to separate the driven pulley on the water pump from the pump shaft. Instead, separate the water pump from the driven pulley. And, make sure you know the routing of the belt for reassembly, because it has to go between the correct legs that support the water pump. Get it wrong and you'll have to start all over. I pulled the machine away from the wall by about 18" and put a block of wood under the front of the machine to raise only the front to 9" or 10" off the floor which made it easier to do the work. Try and take a digital photo of the belt routing from a couple of angles before beginning. Don't forget to route the belt around the tensioner pulley.

Removed front lower panel, removed 4 bolts holding motor, removed water hoses draining water into a pot, unplugged electrical connector on motor, removed motor, removed water pump from motor (torex bit), separated pump from motor. installed belt reassembled washer in reverse order. To my surprise, it worked and was easy.

Removed old hose by sqeezing clamps and sliding off of fittings. Placed clamps on new hose. Slid hose on fittings. Repositioned clamps over end of hose. Job done.

After totally disassembling the washer ; the parts arrived, wrong parts! called and resolved issue, recvd parts and proceeded without special tools, PB Blaster solvent is awesome!!! I removed the seal & bearing with little effort with a hammer and screw driver. Greased new seal and installed effortless. Waher back in operation in less than 2 hours of receiving the parts.

First, I removed the screws, then removed the pump. I, then, installed a new pump.

unpluged power source, took the top off, then took off knobs then pried a small white holder off the front then pried up front panel then took old part off by removing one screw and sliding to the left and unpluged the part. Placed the new part just the opposite way and put everything back together again. Works like a charm and NO Maytag guy.
Thanks

disconnected valve replaced with new, real easy. I removed motor and belt ,4 bolts, than removed 3 star screws from pump, replaced pump and replaced unit. Worked great!!!
Delivery of parts was faster than promised, standard shipping.

I ordered my part on Monday. It was delivered on Tuesday, and by four o'clock we were in business. I highly reccomend PartSelect.

We promptly received the part and easily installed it with no tools. We had an excellent experience. We found the old fabric softener dispenser after installing the new one. Now, we have two.

Unhooked the idler pully spring, removed the 2 hoses from the pump outlets, unhooked the idler pulley srring to slaken the drive belt tension, removed 4 bolts from the motor mount to drop the motor, and slipped the drive belt off the transmission pulley.

Removed 3 torx screws that secure the pump. The pump was stuck to the motor motor shaft from corrosion and had to knock the pump off with a hammer. Reassembly was a breeze.

The most serious problem I had was a black widow spider lurking under the transmission pulley. Never did get it!

removed sheetmetal screws hilding motor bracket loosened hose clamps on both hoses and removed hoses., rmoved 3 screws holding the pump in and slid pump off of shaft. installation was reverse

First I unscrewed the bottom of the front panel.
Then I realized the front panel pulls off from the top.
(manuals are helpful only if read!) I took the tub hose off at the tub and used my wet vac to remove all the excess water. (no towel needed) Using the appropriate size torx head bit, an extension and a small socket wrench to undo the screws holding the pump. I had to push and pull the bottom of the tub slightly to get proper room for the small socket wrench. pull the pump down and off. take the hoses off and place them on the new pump. reverse the process. tighten the clamps and replace the front cover.

I seemed to have a more difficult time changing the pump out than others who had left their instructions on line prior to me.
What I has to do is remove the 4 bolts that secured the motor & mount to the frame. I then unplugged the wire harness from the motor leads.
I removed the belt tensioning spring & removed the belt.
I then removed the motor, motor mount and pump assembly. Turned it upside down & removed the pump. When installing the new pump you will need to remember how the belt was routed. A local parts house actually gave me a xeroxed schematic that showed me how to route it. A real life saver.
After that I turned the assembly right side up, bolted the mount into place, installed the new belt onto the large flywheel, attached the belt tension spring, plugged in the wiring harness and ran a rinse cycle. No leaks. Good as new.
Yes. It took a little longer than expected. But it was alot cheaper than having a service man do it.

Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.

tilt the washer back removed bottom panal .removed bracket holding motor took motor out removed 3 scewer holding pump. took belt off put new one on. about 45 mins pretty easy job