LNC6766A01 Admiral Washer - Instructions

Hving read some of the tips in regards to this repair I set out with equal parts of confidence & apprehension. The advice of shifting the tub toward the hinge to be removed is in itself the key to the whole procedure. After having done so & wedging a dust pan handle between the tub & frame to first one side & then the other, I removed the entire lid with the hinge & hinge pin assys. attached as ther is not sufficient clearance to slide a servicable hinge pin from a hinge when only one hinge has beeen removed. With the lid completely removed access to the hinge pin(s) is straight forward. I suggest screwing & unscrewing the fastening screw into a new hinge assy before mounting the hinge onto the machine & also using an offset philips screwdriver or ,as I did, a 1/4" drv. ratchet with a #2 philips apex bit which allows for a better feel & more control over the upside down blind operation of removing & replacing the fastening screw into the hinge assy. Hope this helps. Tom

On a scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the most difficult), I would rate this a 2 or 3. It is just a matter of knowing how to access the pump. First I unplugged the washer. Then used putty knife to push in clips to lift up top of washer (the clips are located about 1 inch in from each side). Used socket to remove the two screws holding on front panel. Disconnected the two hoses from pump using pliers to squeeze clips (be sure to have cup or bowl handy because water will come out of the hoses). Lifted up washer and removed belt from pump. Used socket wrench to remove pump and replace with new one. Reattached hoses and belt. Reattached front panel and closed the top of the washer. Everything was easy to access.

Actually I got on YouTube and looked up the problem and watch the short video of it and went from there and it showed me how to take everything apart what the problems were and as I did take it apart and found out it was exactly what they said I simply reversed it just ordered the parts and put them in and took my time to make sure that everything was to specs as I've measured the clearance of the break and said all the hardware back in place it was quite simple yet it was just time consuming took me about two and a half hours but it runs quiet spins great just like a brand new one I couldn't be more pleased with it and I saved quite a bit of money doing it myself

Unlike most videos, mine had a solid frame, no access panels. Following, is my disassembly & repair: I disconnected the water supply lines and drain hose. I slid the washer out into the center of the garage & removed the 9 base screws from the base plate. I slid the frame away from the base, leaving the working parts exposed. After pulling the working mechanisms from the outer frame, I turned it (drum, transmission & base) upside down. I used a pair of vise grips, pinched them onto each spring & removed them, using a downward motion it was a lot easier. I placed the base plate aside, removed 3 opposing screws holding the snubber ring & put 3 longer 8-32 screws in to hold the brake assembly. Then I removed the 3 remaining screws, lifted the plate & replaced the ring. Then I reversed the process, replacing the old springs with new ones & finished the job in about 2 hours.

First, I unplugged the washer.

then, I used a small prybar to pop open the front top of the waher. It's hinged at the back top edge. I drew a rough sketch of the four color coded connecting wires so I could disconnect the old water inlet valve and replace it the same way with the new one.
( just in case I lost track of which wire went where.)

I cut off the water supply for both the hot and cold water, (you can also cut off the water main,) then diconnected the supply hoses--noting where the hot water was connected, and where the cold water connected. Maytag had cut out a "C" and
a "H" our of the back wall of the washer,
to assist with hose installation.

I unscrewed the two hex nuts holding the old inlet valve to the back wall of the washer. ( from the outside back of the machine.) and pulled the old inlet valve up to the top of the machine. I didn't remove the basket that holds the laundry, so it was a kind of tight workspace.

Once you reconnect the wires to the new water inlet valve, attach the inlet valve to the washer wall, and reconnect the hoses, it's done. It's pretty simple.

took back off washer with nutdriver, pulled wires off by hand, ( was unplugged ). pliars used to remove hose, regular clamp put back on. reinstalled back plugged in, tested water,,,, done

Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos

Disconnected the power plug. Turned off the hot & cold hose water supply. Put down old bath towel. Disconneced hoses from machine inlet valve. Opened entire top for access to electrical connections & fill hose. Replaced inlet valve, new wire connectors. Replaced the hot & cold water hoses.

This was my first washing machine repair.

The repair was easy. I had to unscrew on bolt, place the agitator assemply on and screw the bolt back down. Simple , Sear was gonna charge 175.00 just to ship the part. I got the part for $57.00.

My husband did the repair quickly and problem solved. The only difficulty was that the water valve was in a tight spot. Overall, if you are mechanically inclined and have the right tools this is do it yourself project.

removed rear acess panel and used pliers to remove leaking hose then reinstalled new hose..

removed old valve bought new one put it in saved money

Brought unit out to garage so I would have room to work on it. Popped the top off, removed two screws to remove the front panel, removed back panel also, since there was no way I was going to the trouble of dis-assembly to get to the snubber without changing those 6 springs also - and you HAVE to remove the back cover to access all 6 springs.Removed belt and level and drain hoses- tub came right out. Loosened those 6 screws without removing them and pulled old snubber out- very straight-forward. Spent 10 minutes just comparing the old and new snubbers- I saw that there's a "ridge" around the inside of the new part that is gone on the old snubber. Sprinkled some corn starch at base of unit where the new snubber will fit (Great Idea someone had!) After everything was re-assmbled, I noticed the tub was now nice and tight when I grabbed it to move it. Before, it took no effort AT ALL to move it all around. Did a test load with some laundry the wife had stacked on the drier. Imagine my disappointment when I heard loud knocking inside when it started to agitate, but not while it spun!
Got all my tools back out and took the wet laundry out to take it all apart again- found the wife's heavy glass vase had been hidden in one of the towels. Re-tested- everything works GREAT!So far I've changed the drum seal (hardest) and the waterpump (easiest)- thi springs and snubber was alsmost as easy as the pump.
Above average shipping from Parts Select also- very helpful and efficient people on the phones.

Removed the inner basket and outer tub to replace the gasket and rubber seal. just had to remove about a dozen screws to get it out.

Tipped the machine up to replace the belt.
The noise didn't go away at first. I decided to spray all the pulleys with some silicone spray, that did the trick.

As described in video; however, the video does not match the model I repaired. Most stuff is the same. Hardest thing to do was installing the new springs on the back of the tub (2 of them).