AW20L1W Admiral Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Anthony from CHESANING, MI
- Parts Used:
- 207843
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Oil leak from lower lip seal
I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.
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- Customer:
- Diana from La Mirada, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP43-0057
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washer Spin Cycle Stopped
Removed the screw from the side of the lid of the washer. Took off the old Lid Switch Actuator and screwed in the new one. Took a little elbow grease because the old screw was tight but no longer than 15 minutes tops.
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- Customer:
- paul from newbern, TN
- Parts Used:
- WP35-6714, WP21001910, WP35-2017
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
washer was squeeling to a stop
first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy
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- Customer:
- Michelle from Jupiter, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP21001760
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washer went off balance and the flume broke off
I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!
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- Customer:
- ALBERT from WASCO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP21352320
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
new belt worn out by a bad motor pulley
i took off the old belt and i took off the motor pulley with the pliers and srewdriver. i put the new pulley in with my hand and gave it a hit with the palm until it snap in and then i put the belt on by rotating the main pulley on tub till the belt was pulley on.
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Topside door would not remain in an open position; lid hinges worn out.
The lid hinges are fastened to the top of the washing machine body, near the edge of the lid, with 1 screw each.
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push the inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push the inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!
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- Customer:
- Lester from Elk Grove, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP35-2328
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
I had water leaking from the top of the tub.
I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.
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- Customer:
- Neil from Ann Arbor, MI
- Parts Used:
- 35-2374N
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
No hot water was making it into the laundry cycle.
First I unplugged the machine, then turned the water supply off in order to disconnect the hoses at the back of the machine. Next I pulled the top up and leaned it back so I could access the water valve at the rear of the machine (You might have to use a screw driver to pry the top off the pins which hold it down in front...). I then unscrewed the the valve and disconnected the wiring and, in order, re-connected to the new valve. Now reverse and turn on the water and yes, the new valve fixed the hot water problem. We can now do the "whites".
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- Customer:
- Brian from Plainville, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP21352320
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Noticed nick in drive belt durng inspection and cleaning
Washer was making noise especially when spinning. I took the washer apart to clean it, That is what it really needed. Also adjusted the water level to prevent overflows which caused soap and water to get underneath into the drive belt area as well. During inspection noticed a nick in the drive belt, Although this was not really causing immediate problem wanted to repalce it to prevent problems. Ordered the belt; it came in two days with no special postage. To install, just leaned the washer over on its front on a slight incline. Took old belt off and put new on by turning the big pulley. It is spring tensioned, so no tools. This may be the easiest part repacement I ever did. Took longer to write this paragraph than to repalce the belt.
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- Customer:
- Brian from Woodbury, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP43-0057
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
lid switch acuator broke and some cycles would not work
unscrew the screw holding the broken part in the lid to remove the old part and tighten the screw to a firm position to hold the new piece in place. Now working fine.
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- Customer:
- John from Alhambra, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP35-6465
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Water pump failure
Disconnect electricity....remove front panel by gently prying up lid.... Remove two small screws at corners of front panel. You may need small nutdriver here or very small hands, you can easily swivel tub out of the way....once front panel is off water pump is at the bottom right... It is only connected by two squeeze clamps and 3 nuts... This is obviously where the adjustable wrench and nutdriver come in very handy... Otherwise this job will be a bit longer....be prepared for residual water to pour out...you will need towels or a bucket....replace old with new one by reversing the process...at this point tilt the entire washer on it's backside or at least at a 45 degree angle to access the bottom... Swivel the motor away to slack up the belt...remove belt and replace in reverse order of diassembling.... Should take no more than 15 minutes.... Good luck!!!!!
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- Customer:
- Jeffery from Omega, GA
- Parts Used:
- WP35-6465, WP21352320
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
broken pump, burned belt
I removed four screws to remove a plate to get access to the pump. Then I removed 3 screws to remove the pump. I then put the new pump in place and put the 3 screws back in the pump. Then I put the plate back on and put the 4 screws back in. Then I put the belt on and put the washing machine back in place and connected the water lines and drain line and plugged the washing machine back in and then tested the washing machine to make sure it worked. Job completed.
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- Customer:
- William from MORGANVILLE, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP35-6465, WP21352320
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Washer was making noise during spin cycle
Hardest part was finding part that needed the needed repair. Searching the web for issues associated with the sound resulted in many links. Once the sound was found, I went to the video to see how to remove the Water Pump so I could examine it to confirm that was the correct piece. It took about 15 minutes to remove the part. Since I had to remove the belt to get it out, I realize that the belt needed replacement as well. So both parts were ordered. Replacing the parts also took about 15 minutes. Relatively easy repair. Be aware that the video on the part select video shows the water pump in a different location than the Maytag washer. To get to the Maytaq water pump, there is a panel in the back that had to be opened to access the water pump.
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- Customer:
- linda from granada hills, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP35-2044
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
washer lid was no longer connected
Pulled up the top of the washer and removed the lid hinge with a star tip screw driver. Realized that I also needed the hinge pins and had to reorder those. They should come as a kit.
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- Customer:
- Pamelia from LA CROSSE, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP681414, WP21352320, WP21002026
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Our washer was purchased 1/6/2006 and it started banging and walking out of its place when the washer started into the spin cycle. This would occur no matter the size of the load.
We followed the instructions show on the video. However, our model was assembled slightly different. We had to remove the screws from both sides of the side panels so that we could remove the tub from inside of the machine. Also our model only has one belt not two.
Over all it was easy considering my husband and I had never attempted to repair a washer. Once we got it back together it when back to working like it had never been broken!
We would have never been able to repair our washer without the video that your site provided... thanks so much!!??
Sure wish the manufactures would consider making the older models again as lots of us are not happy with the new modules being manufactured presently!
Over all it was easy considering my husband and I had never attempted to repair a washer. Once we got it back together it when back to working like it had never been broken!
We would have never been able to repair our washer without the video that your site provided... thanks so much!!??
Sure wish the manufactures would consider making the older models again as lots of us are not happy with the new modules being manufactured presently!
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