8TWTW6000JW1 Admiral Washer - Instructions

Watched your videos. Knew I didn’t have the strength to do it myself. Contacted my son, he came by and using your instructions( you made me look very knowledgeable) it was done in short order!

As women, myself and my daughter completed this fairly simple repair. The replacement washer plate was top quality and included the washplate replacement screw. Additionally, we purchased a tube of lock tight to further secure bolt placement. The most difficult part of the repair is to disengage old screw and securely replace with new one. Very pleased with fast delivery Excellent customer service and top quality part.
Thanks

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Force the thin nylon strap around and down into the perimeter of the agitator. Draw it snug to the center. The strap must be long enough to make a complete loop up to the top of the tub. Insert a fairly stout wooden stick through the loop so that an upward prying motion of the stick applies a vertical force on the agitator. While the force is applied pound on the lower part of the agitator so that it will break it free from the motor's axel. Of course remove the center bolt first after removing the small hub cover.
Applying liquids to the connection did not help. Just a steady upward force and a few rubber hammer blows to the lower part of the agitator di the trick.

Took the top off an then the tub top an installed the spring suspenders . If you dont take the tub top off it will be very difficult to install .

I watched the repair video on Partselect, it was very informative. In the video the agitator lifted right out easily, I was not so lucky. It took me and another gentleman about 4 hours to get the thing out. I watched other videos on ideas to remove, still no luck. Finally I cut the strap off of a carry all bag and was able to get it in around the agitator and slide it under it. After getting it under the agitator we were able to pull up on it and get it loose.
The rest of the repair was simple, cleaned everything, installed new part, and now washing machine is working like new again.

My spin cycle was running, but spinning slowly and not drying my clothes. The agitator spun quickly like normal, but the basket did not spin fast. It seemed like something was slipping. I checked the belt, but it seemed fine and it was less than a year old. I was afraid that the transmission was going, but there wasn't any grinding sound of gears. Luckily the hub part description said that this could fix the slow Spin cycle. Over all the repair was easy, but pulling the agitator off was very difficult. I've got a strong grip and patience and after about 10 - 15 mintues of yanking on the agitator it came off. Don't try to use pliers as it will damage the plastic agitator. Replacing the hub drive and reassembly went very smoothly. The old hub drive wore out because it is plastic and connects to the metal drive shaft from the transmission. After years of torque, the hub will eventually strip out. Sooner depending on your usage and heavy duty cycles. In case you don't know, your machine might have the service manual in it on the inside of the body taped to the side. Mine helped me run through some troubleshooting steps and component tests to pinpoint to problem. Thanks Parts Select!

I watched the video and did exactly what they said to do. It was really easy. The key to the success was in the parts that were mailed to me it had a separate piece of paper telling you to "reset" the washer after doing the repair. I missed this when I watched the video. That was a critical part of the repair which required no tools to accomplish.
I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!

I did the repair just as the video showed, and had no problems at all.
the hardest thing I had to do was to move the washer out to where I could get to the back of the machine.
Due to the help of the sales rep and the video the repair was very easy

Thanks
Louis

*be sure to turn water off, unplug machine, and unscrew the water hoses from the rear of the washer.
1. Removed screws from the back of the washer, just the top part where the controls are.
2. Removed the panel.
3. Use a putty knife or screw driver to pop off the top panel.
4. Remove the screws from the inlet valve.
5. Unplug the wires connecting the inlet valve to the washer.
6. Lift out the old inlet valve.
7. Replace with the new inlet valve.
8. Plug the new wires into the washer.
9. Replace the screws in the inlet valve.
10. Replace the top.
11. Replace the rear panel and screws.
12. Reconnect the water hoses, careful not to mix the hot and cold.
13. Plug the machine back in and you're finished!

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

Replaced the mixer valve . It was a few screws, and an instruction video from YouTube.

I unscrewed the top panel of the washer. I lifted up the top and used the pint scrapper to loosen up the lid switch and slid it out. I pulled the switch wiring harness out of the rear top of the washer. I slid the new lid switch and wiring harness back through the opening and secured the switch in place. Screwed it back in place. Took less than 15 minutes. I followed the instructions on the video, easy peasy lemon squeezy.

I knew the hub was probably the issue. I also knew it could be difficult to remove the wash plate, as I tried to do it before on another model a few years ago. When I took out the wash plate bolt, and made the decision to carefully smash the wash plate with a hammer and remove it piece by piece, it was very simple to get to the hub and remove it with a screwdriver. The new wash plate and hub took about 10 minutes to put back in.

There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.