AAV8000AJW Admiral Washer - Instructions

I watched the video of the repair on this website and followed it. Was really easy & THANK GOD because this was my first repair. This has been a great machine and it looks like it will continue to be for a little while longer! Thanks for the video help and friendly navigation of your site!

raised the top of the washer to get at the front panel screws. Removed the front panel. Removed the cracked hose and installed the new one. Reinstalled the front and top panels.

Removed front panel by releasing spring clips with putty knife and removed two screws with a ratchet and 5/16” socket. Removed rear access cover with a ratchet and 5/16” socket. Removed and replaced tub to pump hose. Loosened clamps on each end of hose with channel locks.
Re installed rear access cover and front panel.

Followed the great instructions on your video

I used the putty knife to release the spring clips on the machine lid. They are about 3" in from the side of the machine. Then I lifted the top of the washer up holding the lid in place. I then used a screw driver (torx) to remove the hinge from the bottom of the washer top. The lid should come right off. Then I the removed the broken hinge pins from the back of the lid with a screwdriver and replaced with the new parts. There is a little tab that the pin fits in the lid to assure you have the pin installed correctly. Then I slid the hinge back on the pin and reversed the process reinstalling the hinges and closing the top of the machine over the spring clips and your done. Very easy repair that I completed in less than 15 minutes.

I raised the top of the washing machine per video instructions, removed the screws, replaced broken hinges with the new ones. It was simple as that.

Removed the broken part of the auger, unscrewed the part still connected, and screwed on the new auger. Voila!

The PartSelect video was excellent and very helpful. This replacement took extra time because the washer was located in a tight space and moving/lack of access to the rear of the washer created several issues. Tips based on my experience:
1) I used a MasterLock ratchet tie-down to secure the lid when raising the hinged top of the washer (I wasn't able to lean and support this against a wall as demonstrated in the install video).
2) The fill hose that connects to the water valve was difficult to remove and I needed two large-jaw adjustable pliers to do this. A small amount of Dawn dishwasher detergent applied to the inside of the hose made re-assembly quick and easy. 3) A set-screw holds the valve in place. Easy to remove but because I couldn't get in back of the washer, I had to measure from the bottom of the valve to line-up the screw with the hole in the valve assembly to mount the new unit (this wouldn't be a problem if you could see where the screw goes but I couldn't get in back of the washer for this simple final step). Very pleased with finished result - just needed some extra time and additional tools.

The lid switch is on the right side top of the washer under the lid. I took a putty knife and found the clips that hold the top of the washer and pushed them to release it. I then lifted it up to fully see the lid switch. I unplugged the washer from the wall socket and took out the 2 screws that holds the lid switch in. Then unplugged the lid switch from its electrical connection and put the new one in its place. Washer is working great so far.

1. Remove 1 screw holding each of 2 Hinges - use T15 driver. 2. Push tub to one side to get access to each screw from underside. 3. remove & replace broken Hinge Pin from Lid with T15 driver. 4. Drive broken pin out of the Hinge with a punch & hammer. 5. Install new Hinge Pin to Lid. 6. Add a little Vaseline to Hinge Pin & slide Hinge Pin into Hinge. 7. Line up Hinges to holes & re-install both Hinges with Lid. Have somebody help hold the Lid in a slight angle will make re-installation easier.

I first changed the belt which helped but it still sounded like it was going to take off through the roof.....I did the pulley and bearing kit in hopes that it would do some good....it went really smoothly with no issues however it did not solve the problem....so it is working and I am going to just ride it out until it quits....thanks

Disconnected hoses. Raised top of washer. Remove outlet hose. Remove 1 screw and lift valve to top of washer. Switch wires to exact same spot on new valve and reverse process.

I followed the instructions in the video on the parts select web site. It was very easy, and went exactly as shown on the video. The part was ~$80. I am sure a repair person would have charged me ~$200 for the repair.

The existing plastic valve is different in size and shape from the replacement part. The existing plastic valve is mounted to a metal mounting braket with bunch of screws. New replacement part has no mounting braket and can't be mounted to the old mounting braket. The old mounting bracket had 2 screws which are used to mount it to the washing machine body. The new valve has only 1 mounting hole which correspondes to a different mounting hole on the body of the washing machine. The new braket is designed to mount directly to the body of the machine. I removed one of the many screws on the old valve /mount braket and used it to mount the new valve directly to the body of the machine.

Easy repair - with the use of a phillips screwdriver, simply remove the old device and replace with the new