3LTE5243BW0 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

After disconnecting the electrical supply, first remove the two screws at either end of the control panel and fold it back away from the washer top. Then, unplug the electrical lid switch connection. Now, remove the two clips at either end on top to disconnect the housing from the washer back and chassis. The motor is sandwiched between the water pump in the front and transmission at the rear. The Direct Drive Coupling connects the rear motor shaft to the transmisson. After you have taken the outter portion of the washer off, remove the two snap clips that hold the water pump in place and slide the pump off the front shaft. Best to also disconnect the upper hose connection so the pump can be moved out of the way. Caution though, remaining water in tub will drain out. Now remove the two screws that hold the clips in place which secure the motor to the transmission. Careful, as the old Direct Drive Coupling is probably destroyed, the clips are the only thing holding the motor in place and the motor needs to be supported so it won't drop to floor when the clips are removed. Be careful not to lose the four rubber grommets which sit between the motor and transmission bracket. After motor is on floor remove the old plastic slip-on direct drive coupling discs from both the motor and transmission shafts. The new replacement discs have steel centers which do not slide onto the shafts as easily as the old plastic ones did. I had to tap the center steel portion onto the shafts using a hammer and a deep wall socket the same width as the steel portion of the disc. Be careful! I'm sure that tapping the plastic portion of the disc to properly seat it on the shaft will break it away from the steel portion. In my case, It took me several attempts to completely seat the new discs. I had to do quite a bit of tapping to get the discs seated far enough onto the shafts so that the motor slipped easily against the transmission bracket grommets and the retainer clips snapped back into place easily. Reassembly is simply reversing the steps you took when taking the unit apart. Before putting the outter housing back in place, I checked to make sure everything was running smoothly by jumping out the electrical snap-in connection for the lid switch and running the machine in the spin cycle. Remember, if you don't jump out the lid switch and just try to test the unit in the aggitate cycle, the machine has to first fill with water.

First I unplugged the dryer for safety, then I removed the top of the dryer, then removed the 2 hex head screws holding the font door panel onto the dryer. Then I disconnected the door safety switch. the rest was cake. I removed the old bearing and cut the new bearing and seal to the exact size of the old one. I used contact cement to glue the new bearing and seal into place. Reassembly was a breeze. End of job. Success!!!

First and most important was to unplug the unit.
I removed the 2 screws that hold the lint screen shoot to the top cover and then simply popped the top of the machine open using 2 screw drivers and
gently prying it up. I raised the top cover about 8 inches and supported it with a block of wood.
I opened the front loading door and removed the 2 screws that hold the door actuator switch while holding the switch on the inside so that nothing would fall down into no mans land. Once the switch was loose I pulled it into view and could see that the actuator spring was broken. I used the search at the Part Select Web site and found the placement part very easy. I was amazed that the part was shipped and delivered to my house the very next day. The actuator spring simply snaps into place and I assembled it in the reverse order of removal, I removed the block of wood and snapped the top back into location and reinstalled the 2 screws for the lint screen shoot . I plugged the dryer in and it work perfect. I can't say enough about how well the experiance with Parts Select went, I will recommend them to others.

Actually this is kinda funny. I ordered the part and it arrived when I was out of town on business. My 20 year old daughter tipped the washer up on its end, and replaced the pump herself in less than 30 minutes. Her only complaint was that no one told her to block the washer up as it almost fell on her.

Remove the nut from the top of the motor shift inside of wsher. then remove the wire harness plug. Take out three bolts side the shaft and motor out. Replace clutch and install in reverse order.

My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)

First I removed hose from drain, next I loosened the clamp at the drain hose connection at the washer. Removed hose. Have rags/towels as there is some residual water that will spill out of the washer. Reinstall in reverse.

First, I'm glad I found PartSelect. The previous posts for this repair told me exactly how to replace the pump: I unplugged the washer and moved it out away from the wall (did not need to disconnect water hoses). Then I tilted the washer back and propped it up so I could get underneath. Using pliers, slid hose clamps back and disconnected hoses from pump. Using a screwdriver, popped off two clips, top and bottom, that hold the pump in place. Pump then slides right off the shaft. Installation is the reverse. Make sure you align the shaft with the pump. Delivery of my part was FAST - ordered it and got it the next day!

Just turned the washer on its side, popped out the two retainer clips with pliers and screwdriver, pulled the pump out by hand, put the new one in and replaced one rusty clip with the new one from parts select, and used the other old one. I ordered the parts on Monday, and they came tuesday, even with the standard shipping. Also the website parts diagram and whole website design is good.

PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might contact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.

I removed three bolts from the transmission and two clips that hold the motor to the drive gear. I replaced the brake cam that had cracked and the lining. Now it works great ! Ordered part on Friday before two and it came Saturday at four.

First unplug dryer, then remove 4 screws along the back of the top and remove top and set aside. Next pull outward on the front until the front clears the drum and lift off the front and set to the side, careful not to stretch the wires to the door switch. Remove old belt and slip belt around the drum and line up with marks from old belt. Reach in under the drum under the motor and lift up the tensioner. Insert belt through tensioner and slip over the front of the shaft on the motor and release the tensioner. The belt should now be tight. Reinstall the front and top, plug in and test.

Removed the clips. Pulled out the old pump. After trying to get the new pump on the shaft of the motor, I realized that some corrosion had built up on the motor shaft. I got a small tack hammer and very lightly tapped the shaft to remove the corrosion. The pump then slid on the shaft with no problem. Replaced clips. Job complete.
The corrosion on the shaft cracked the plastic piece where the shaft connects and this is what caused the problem in the first place.

flip machine back remove two spring clamps and hoses remove two spring clamps and water pump save $500.+on a new washer