CGT8000XQ0 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Half of my pulley was broken off so there were no wrench flats to take it off. I was able to remove it using Channel Locks and the 7/16 wrench shown in the video.

Hint: Use a one gallon ice cream bucket to hold up the drum while connecting the belt. It makes it much easier and gives you more clearance.

i could not find this part anywhere locally,so i found this web site which had this part.i ordered this part and am very glad i did.i received it in 2 days.thank you very much.if you need anything check this place first,you will be very satisfied.

removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!

Removed the old pump and installed the new one. Most difficulty came from the fact that the dryer is on top of the washer and the washer is inside a plastic pan that has a 2 inch lip which made it difficult to remover the front panel.

Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.

unhooked two water lines & electrical plugin unbolted old pump and installed new pump. took about 15 minutes.

removed front of dryer located igniter removed two screws disconnected wires then put new one in also replace thermal fuse and thermostat on back of dryer works great.

I was reluctant to call a repair service. Typically when an appliance is as old as my dryer (14 years old), service people encourage you to replace, not repair. I had replaced the dryer's motor within the last 5 years and believed my dryer still had life to it. At first, I tried cleaning the lint build up from the dryer cavity and hoses. This worked but only for a couple of days. After reading other successful repair stories on the website, I decided to try replacing the thermal fuse. It was so easy. The part was easily identifiable. It was just a little hard to yank off the connecting wires. Good as new and no service call.

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

Unhooked two hose clamps took two screws off put new aprt on hooked back up works great

Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

Unplug machine from electrical outlet.
All screws can be removed with a 1/4" socket, either with a socket wrench or nut driver.
Top panel - remove three screws on back, slide panel back an inch or so, and lift off.
The control panel must be carefully pulled off by using a screwdriver to pry it away, and then placed on top of machine. Be careful not to disconnect or damage any attached wires.
Pull out the detergent dispense drawer, press the retainer on the left rear of dispenser drawer, and pull it out and set it aside. One small torx screw must removed from the dispenser housing.
Bottom front panel - remove three screws to take it off. This exposes the screws on the front panel.
The front panel of machine must be removed as well.
This is the most tedious part of the job, as the door seal must be disconnected from the panel. Remove the wire and spring retainer around the door that holds seal in place. The spring portion of the retainer is on the bottom of the opening. Pry it off with a screwdriver, being careful not to damage the rubber seal. Do not remove it, simply push it into the washer opening.
Remove the screws from the front panel - two on top, and two bottom. It has some wires on the right side, and to avoid damaging them, support the panel with a stool and prop it up against the machine.
You can now access the hose on the rear bottom of the dispenser. Using a pliers, squeeze the retainer and pull the hose off the dispense. The other end is pressed into the tub - simply pull it out. I recommend cleaning the edges of hole to assure a good seal when installing the replacement.
To install the replacement hose, press it into the tub, making sure to get the channel in the hose properly inserted in order to make a solid seal. Attach the other end to the dispenser with the retainer.
Reassemble by reversing the order described above.

Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.