WET4124HW0 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Took off the lower front panel, removed duct piece from filter to blower fan, removed two screws and two wires to thermostat in exhaust ducting, then replaced thermostat with new one. Very easy job and everything worked like new when I reassembled it.

First I pulled out lint catcher, you will see two screws ,removed two the screws on top ,( philips head screw driver) I than took a putty knife and pushed in the front of the dryer under the lid and lifted the top up, I than removed a self tapping screw on each side with a 5/16 wrench and lifted the front panel out. I than pulled out the drum and this exposed the two rollers, I than pulled of the nut locks with athe pliers , took off the plastic triangle snaps and pullled off the old rollers , replaceing them with the new ones,put the triangle locks on and that the lock nuts on , I than put the drum back in, than the front panel, replaceing the two self tapping screws , snapped down the top,replaced the other two screws again on top and replaced the lint catcher, I was done.

My dryer started making a loud rumbling and clanking sound and I didn't know what was wrong.

First I pulled it away from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I loosened the four nut/screws across the top of the rear of the dryer with my adjustable wrench then removed them with the flathead screwdriver. Then from the front of the machine, pulled the top of the dryer towards me, freeing the top and removed it. I could see one belt towards the front of the machine that appeared to be intact. I plugged the dryer back in and ran it... It spun but continued to clank and rumble. I noticed a "groove" near the rear of the drum and didn't see a belt there so I assumed that I needed the rear belt and ordered a replacement. I WAS WRONG. It turned out that there is actually only ONE BELT on this machine, that in fact I needed replacement DRUM WHEELS.

Next, I unplugged the power cord again and then I removed all twenty some-odd screws from the rear of the machine... which was POINTLESS as it only gave me access to the heating element, so I replaced this and all the screws.

I then removed the inside top nut/screw from the front panel on both the right and left inner lip. The panel then lifted up and off of the machine...only connected at this point to the rest of the dryer by the wires.

I made a schematic of the wires and which color was connected where, and then only removed those that were necessary to detatch the front panel completely from the dryer (so I could easily replace them properly later).

I noticed at this point that the belt was still functioning (although was cracked and needed replacing soon anyways)...but that the bottom drum wheel had worn itself down on the inside (where it rests on the axle)...the rubber around the outside was still good... but the whole wheel needed replacing. The side drum wheel (same part number as bottom) appeared to be fine.

I ordered replacement DRUM WHEELS (they sell them in packages of two only).

When the wheels arrived, I got down on my hands and knees and noticed how the belt was connected to the drive spindle of the motor... by a spring levered plastic wheel... very simple. Push the spring lever towards the drive spindle of the motor...loosening the belt. Then removed the belt from the motor, relaxing the spring and the belt came off, hanging only around the drum of the dryer.

Without tension on the spring levered plastic wheel, it came off of the bottom of the dryer completely. (If your belt has broken, you most likely will find this sitting on the bottom of your dryer...I will tell you how to attach it later on in this story.).

I carefully pulled the sides of the dryer case apart and slid one side of the drum forward out of the case...then slowly slid the other side of the drum out of the case...gently lifting up and out...completely removing the drum from the machine....setting it aside.

The dryer (inside the case) was FILTHY. I got out the handheld vacuum and cleaned it all out (finding a religous medallion, an earring, and over $2.00 in change). I vacuumed the inner bottom, sides, motor, and took advantage of vacuuming the inside of the lint collector as well... cleaning it up nicely.

The bottom drum wheel was attached by a triangular plastic clip (on both sides of the wheel)...I removed the plastic clip carefully by gently prying it off with the flat edged screwdriver... being careful not to break it. There was a LOT of hair wrapped around the axle near the triangular clip and used the pliers to pull the hair off...then removed the bad wheel..then the plastic clip behind where the wheel was sitting...and the hair there as well. I cleaned off the axle thoroughly, then did the same with the other drum wheel (even though it looked fine, I replaced them both.).

I set the old side wheel aside with the old (still useable) triangular plastic clips. In the future if one of the wheels goes bad... I'll have a replacement that will get me by.

Then I slid one of the NEW triangular p

When the belt broke my renter tried to fix it with duct tape and in the process the idler pulley either broke or somehow got lost. When I began to fix the dryer with a new belt,I discovered the idler was gone. SO, not knowing what it looked like was a problem. Going to the PartSelect web site I was able to see the exploded views of the whole dryer and pick out the right repair items. Really worked slick. Thanks. Allan W. Rutter

I was reluctant to call a repair service. Typically when an appliance is as old as my dryer (14 years old), service people encourage you to replace, not repair. I had replaced the dryer's motor within the last 5 years and believed my dryer still had life to it. At first, I tried cleaning the lint build up from the dryer cavity and hoses. This worked but only for a couple of days. After reading other successful repair stories on the website, I decided to try replacing the thermal fuse. It was so easy. The part was easily identifiable. It was just a little hard to yank off the connecting wires. Good as new and no service call.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.

My 80 series Kenmore dryer wouldn't start so I looked online for a solution to the problem. One of the sites I found stated that the problem could be as simple as a thermal fuse if other potential issues could be ruled out. I ordered the part on a Monday from PartSelect with standard FedEx ground shipping - stated it could be 3-5 business days. To my amazement, the part arrived the next day! Awesome!!! I watched the video on the PartSelect site to make sure I knew how to fix it, then followed the easy instructions. All I needed to do was use the nutdriver to remove the back cover from the dryer, unplug the two wires going into the thermal fuse, remove the old fuse, and pop the new one in. Then I just plugged the wires into the new fuse, replaced the cover and voila, the dryer worked like a champ! Thank you PartSelect for saving me a needlessly high repair bill!!

Unplug dryer from mains. Remove the back of the dryer. Thermal fuse is located on the left hand side near the bottom as you face the back of the dryer. Remove fuse and connect new fuse. Never repaired an appliance before and this was so easy!

Went on this website and found a story that was similar. I ordered the parts which arrived quickly and I replaced the Thermal Fuse and heating element and it was fixed! The whole repair cost me $24.88! Way cheaper than calling a repair man.
Heater thing was part # 3387134
and the fuse was 3392519

I order a new belt and I watched the video instructions on how to replace it, follow the instructions, removed the top and took out the dryer tumbler or can, found a broken idler pulley, order a new one, got it in about two days, replaced all the parts and now its working like a new dryer, I called several repair shops and I got estimates from $65 to $150, I spend less than $35 and it took me about 35 minutes to install and I got it fixed..

easy three prong push-in,...

The first thing I did was call my friend Donnie who manages some apartment buildings and who is always complaining about fixing things and getting the right parts to fix things. He told me what to order from PartsSelect and when the parts got here I called him up and he did the repair work.

He was reluctant to do the work at first but after he found out I had ordered the parts from PartsSelect he was happy to do the work. "Their parts are always right and they always work," was what he said after he had my dryer working just like new. So if you know nothing about fixing things and buying parts just call PartsSelect and you will be fine. Just ask my friend Donnie!!!

remove the front panel, belt [notice the way the belt is fasten] remove the tub, support bracket to the drum roller, and slide the new drum roller on and place the tre ring in the slot. then re-install everything in reverse