LTSA7AQN4350 Speed Queen Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

Pretty much just followed the installation video. Took dryer apart and just put everything back the way it was.

Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the front lower cover. Removed the two screws for the bracket that holds down the coils. Unplugged the coils and swapped them out. Reassembled everything in reverse order. Plugged the dryer back in and started it. It's as good as new.

Found symptoms on Part Select website and confirmed that the problem was the coils. It was extremely easy to find and the site saved me hundreds of dollars on a repairman, labor costs and marked up parts. It literally took about 5 minutes to repair. Awesome site!!Thank You

1)Pulled electrical connectors off each of two gas valve coils. 2)Removed two Phillips screws and removed coil retainer bracket. 3)Lifted off two old coils and replaced with two new coils. 4)Replaced coil retainer bracket and plugged back connector on each coil; total coil replacement time is less than two minutes. 5)Confirmed gas valve opens and gas ignites every time over a two day test period. 6)Re-installed door. Wife Happy. We spent under $20 for 'M' series new style coil kit; and the $7 shipping got it here in two days. What a deal! Terry Rahmer 8.24.2012

After researching the problem, I thought the solution would be to replace the two terminal coil valve, but wasn't 100% sure it wasn't the 3 terminal coil, so I bought both. the dryer is 13 years old so I thought it deserved new coils. My husband was away for the week and I had about 10 loads of laundry to do. I dreaded the thought of going to the laundromat, so I went ahead and ordered the parts, thinking I would call a handyman to install them once they arrived. However, I found a Youtube video showing exactly what I had to do and thought it looked easy enough. I unplugged the machine, removed the front hatch and the 2 small screws holding the coils in place. I unplugged the old coils, used a vacuum to remove the dust in the area and installed the new coils. I popped them back into place, screwed them in, replaced the hatch, plugged the machine in, and VOILA!!!! A dryer that heats!!!!

the repair was an easy fix, I removed the two screws from the brackets holding the coils, disconnect and removed them installed the new coils connected plugs turned on dryer and I got heat not bad at all thank you for the help

Watched video. Made this a very easy repair.Will use this site for next repair.

removed frt cover & drum, replaced solenoids, cleaned the unit interior

My suggestion is to read all of the items that may result in no heat, or insufficient heat, you will find your problem in one of the reply's and the right part to replace. The repair was made much easier, as I installed a Maintenance kit at the same time. Drum rollers, drive belts and tensioner. With the drum out, the coil retaining clip was a LOT easier to re-instal. If the drum isn't out, you can lift the drum up a little and squeeze a stubby screw driver in to loosen the retaining screws. You have to use the proper size screwdriver so you don't strip the screws, and maybe a pair of gas pliers around the handle of the screwdriver to give it a little torque to help loosen the screws, while keeping downward pressure on the screwdriver.

open the back pannel and use multimeter to check the wirings and everything checks ok. open the bottom front panel of the dryer and turn the dryer on. the igniter works and the flame came out for seconds and dies off. the igniter keep coming on, but it seems that the gas was not coming out. i checked the gas line valve and it was open. i had a good idea it wasn't the wiring or the gas line, it must be the coil-valve,(safety coil), that letting the gas flow. i order the parts, it came sooner, which is good, and it took me less than 10 minutes to install, and i only use a philip screw driver. i thank you for sending me the right part in short period of time.

Checked heating element and it glowed so I replaced the ceramic gas valve regulators. 4 screws to take front off the dryer and 2 screws to replace part. Couldn't have been easier but I wouldn't have been able to do it without watching the video first.

Remove the two screws holding the door and lift straight up. Remove the two screws on oppostie side. Face can now be removed by pulling straight out at the top, then lifting face up off of tabs at the bottom. The two coils are at the bottom, held in by a retaining bracket. Remove the screws that hold the bracket. Replace the coils by unplugged their wires. That's it!

It was a fairly simple repair to perform with the dryer in place. I simply opened the bottom/front access panel to start, the door removes if you pull up after opening. Then I disconnected the two and three wire connector to the two coils. Next I removed the bracket screws that fasten the coils to the valve assembly. This was a little difficult with the screw closest, because of the small clearance and #1 sized phillips(stubby would work well.) The rear screw I managed to remove by using both a small flathead screwdriver(hex shaped shaft) and an adjustable cresent wrench. At this point, it was a simple matter of installing the new coils and the bracket, and then reconnecting the two plugs. It almost made me want to do laundry.

removed front cover and turned unit on, igniter would glow red but burner would not start. ordered m series new style coil kit and installed. turned unit on and igniter came on and burner started right away. all thanks to parts select trouble shooting guide.