UG8091 Speed Queen Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

Being my lousy Maytag washer died THE PREVIOUS DAY, spewing water, etc. and I had rushed out and bought a new washer, I was determined not to replace the dryer (though I now am a serious NON_FAN of Maytag).

I disassembled the whole dryer and finally got to the blower wheel which was broken lose from the molded nut. I supposed something like a dime or penny got in there to shred it.

PartSelect's website allowed me to find the part in 5 minutes. It was on my doorstep the next afternoon.

Installation was straightforward BECAUSE I stacked all the screws and and labeled them appropriately. It took about 30 minutes to reassemble and the toughest bit was getting the drum in with the belt positioned properly.

The repair looked simple enough until it came time to take the out wheel off. Because you can not hold the motor shaft(and the wheel screws on) it was necessary to remove the whole motor assembly and then grind the out shaft down, then use a small screwdriver to take the remaining shaft off.
I must say it was nice to recieve the part in as fast as I did we live in a very rural area and things like that are very hard to find

I took out the 2 screws on the bottom of the front cover, pulled out at the bottom, disconnected the 2 wires for the front door and removed 2 screws on the inside top of the front panel and removed. The top of the dryer then flips over. I then tool out 4 more screws and took out the drum. I totally cleaned out the inside of the dryer and then took the oring pliers and removed the oring that held the roller on the belt tension bar and replaced it with the new one that you sent me. I put the drum back in and put the belt back on the new roller, I put the dryer back together and now I have a good dryer that will last another 10 years.

. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.

had to completely disasemble whole washer drum and mechanical components to remove upper bearing on transmission,the drum hub was corroded on the shaft. I had to use a gear puller and a propane torch to get the hub off upper shaft of the transmission. then press the bearings in the respective sheet metal supports. reassembly was alot easier than taking it apart. Not a job for an average homeowner. It would not have been repaired without the wheel puller. all the seals were reusable A week and a half of use later no leaks and works great

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

I removed two wires from the coil valves. Then I removed two screws from the bracket that holds the coil valves in place. I removed the faulty coil valves and replaced them with the new ones. Put the bracket back on and replaced the two screws and wires. It took almost 5 minutes. The dryer is like new once again.

removed the two screws that hold the coils in place pulled the coils terminal connections off removed and replaced with new coils reattached quick disconnect terminals dryer now works better than when it was new

I began by removing the two screws at the lower part of the front panel. After removing the panel I was able to access and remove the broken switch which was located on the front panel. I popped out the old switch and replaced it with the new one, reattached the wires and put the front panel on and the jod was done.

Unplug unit turn off gas, remove only bottom front panel first tried radient flame sensor was not the problem it was the coils which were infront easy to acess with small screw driver remove two prong coil and replaced then the three pronged coil being sure to line them back before tigtening left off cover and watched for ignition once it turned on and ran replaced cover and done.

I unscrewed the door catch and pried out with some resistance the strike part. Screwed in the catch and pushed in the strike. Closed door. Voila!! Back in business with assurance.

The round exhaust duct in the back my dryer can be removed simply by pulling straight out. This gives full access to the belt tension wheel. Slip belt off the wheel, remove snap ring with snap ring pliers, remove washer and wheel. Install new wheel, attach belt, and reinstall duct by looking right down the middle to line up properly. Dryer sounds like new again. 10 minute job.

Well, this is quite easy really. I found the problem after plucking and chucking a few parts but it was finally the igniter that was the problem. After taking the front section panel off to access the components, take the time to unscrew the igniter and see if it is cracked. That is what happened to my unit. I replaced to the new M series coils as well but the issue was the igniter. Look very carefully for a crack, the one on my unit was very small. You can ohm it out with a meter and if it reads open it is cracked.