CTSA9AWN Speed Queen Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I'm a 65-year-old woman with no prior appliance repair experience. I learned on the web that 30% of the time, the failure-to-heat problem is caused by the valve coil, and 30% of the time, it's the cycling thermostat. So I ordered both parts. I watched installation videos on the web. The valve coil was accessable through a front port on the dryer so I started there. I had to go buy a stubby screwdriver because access to the screws was limited. From there, it was easy to take out the old valve coil and install the new one. Just 5 minutes. I plugged in the dryer again, turned it on, and it worked.

The hardest part is figuring out how to get the unit open. You have to take out the brackets that appear to hold on the timer section and you have to remove the screws under the lint filter. Once you have the top off then you remove the screws that hold the front panel on from the inside. I decided not to remove the drum it seemed like a lot of hassle, instead I went down and got a right angle screwdriver, the terminal valves are in the front of the unit and you only have to remove 2 screws to remove the retainer which holds them both in place. The drum is in the way so you can't use a regular screwdriver and the right angle is a bit slow going but I think it is actually faster than removing and replacing the drum for a novice like myself. Replacing the coils took about 2 minutes and then reassembly another half hour. But the Dryer works great again and for $70 it was well worth it.

I had no idea how to take my dryer apart so it took me a little while to figure out. I hope by me writing this out my experience might help someone else fix their dryer instead of having to buy a new one. 1)I removed the lint screen assy by removing the 2 screws that hold it to the dryer top. 2) I popped up the front of the top of the dryer which is held to the dryer body by 2 spring type clips. Removed by prying up the top using a big screw driver to release it from the clips.3) Reaching through the top of the dryer and feeling down along the front there is one fastner on each side that holds the dryer front to the dryer body. I removed using a nut driver. 4) The dryer front then can be removed by lifting it up to release it from 2 hooks on the bottom that it hangs on. 5) The coils were located at the lower left side of the dryer as part of the gas heat assy. There is a bracket that holds the 2 coils in place using 2 screws. I removed these 2 screws. Then the old coils can be lifted off the valve post. Then unplug the electrical connector from the old coil and plug in the new coils. 6) Reverse the process to reassemble. After this my problem was fixed and my dryer is working great.

Checked to see if heating element was warming up by checking through access hole on front of dryer,it was, you know because it glows,so replaced coils and it fixed the problem. Important note, buy the coils as a packet, almost half the price than buying seperately. Thx everybody who sends in info, this is a great site to save people money on fixing appliances

Initially diagnosed the failure mode as a faulty thermal fuse and when the fuse was replaced was encouraged to find the heat working...then it shut off again. After a period of time that the dryer was off the heat would come back on. After reviewing the site extensively I found a description of the failure mode similar to mine and determined to replace the 2-terminal & 3-terminal coils (kit is less expensive than either by itself). My older Whirlpool dryer needeed to have the top panel removed in order to get to the front panel screws and once the front panel was removed the coil assembly was pretty easy to identify. The retention "plate" was attached via screws that were a little tough to get to but an offset phillips screw driver did the trick. The coils were "keyed" in such a way that they would only insert one way to be properly oriented. So I've earned my appliance repair merit badge.

Watched that igniter glowed for usual 15 seconds. Gas did not flow so tested solenoids for ohm resistance across leads. One was bad, less than 1350 oms (as I recall). Ordered the M series coil (solenoid) kit at Part Select, arrived the next day. Replaced them in 5 minutes. Took about 15 minutes to vacuum lint + dust out base of dryer area. 5 more min to put front of dryer 4 screws in and mount dryer door!

I have a whirlpool gas dryer. My dryer all of a sudden would not heat up. I diagnosed the problem and discovered that it would light (using the peep hole in the front) when the dryer was cold, but once warm, the flame would go out. I bought a cheap multimeter and tested all the themostats on the back of the unit after removing the back panel. All the thermomstats checked out except the cycling thermostat which should no signal through one of the connections (purple wires). I ordered a new thermo and replaced the old one but it didn't fix the problem. Seems that there isn't a current between the purple connections.... Since the flame did light when the unit was cold I figured it wasn't the ignitor so it was either the flame sensor or the coils. I took the top and front panels off (alot easier than I thought; see videos) and checked the flame sensor with my multimeter. It was fine. Only thing left was the coils, so I ordered a set. IF YOU NEED COILS, SAVE YOURSELF MONEY AND ORDER THE PAIR. YOU GET BOTH COILS FOR < HALF THE PRICE IF ORDERING INDIVIDUALLY. Replacing the coils was rather easy. You will need to prop up the drum with something to keep it from impeding your screwdriver. A stubby philips really helped here. Also, since the gas valves are closed when there is no power, there is no need to disconnect the gas line and fuss about a gas leak (This really saved time). Once the two screws for the coil plate were out of the way, the coils simply slide off the valves and unplug easily. NOTE: Make sure you line up the one new coil with plate when you put it back together. It has a little tab that fits into the plate. All-in-all it took about 30-60 minutes to do. If I were to do it again it would probably take 15 minutes. Pretty easy job for a do-it-yourselfer with only basic tools.

I started by taking the front of my dryer off and cleaned it out. Next i ran the dryer and watched the flame starter circut. The starter circut would work once and then not for a long time but i could see it was tring to light because the iginiter would glow white hot. I then searched online for my model number and found the part select web site. In a few minutes I found a dryer fault description that best fit what my dryer was doing. The part select site should me three parts it might be. I read about what the three parts did on the parts select site. Then by using the process of elimination, with the knowledge I had just learned, I narrowed my suspect parts down to one. The coil for the gas valve must be the problem. So I got my ohm meter and measured the coil resistance and I found that when the coil was room temp it had resistance. But it would get hot after one heat cycle and it would open up therefore causing the gas valve not to open......no heat! I ordered the part and it came in two days!!!! All fixed!

First I opened the front of my dryer panel to see when the dryer was on if there was any gas flowing. I found that the ignitor was glowing , but no gas was releasing from the valve. So I figured that that is the root of the problem. I changed the old gas valves and replaced them with the new ones. It worked!! The whole process didn't take more than 30 minutes.

I first replaced the temperature sensor. That did not help and when doing investigation when thr drier was warm I found the vallve would open and close if I touched the coils

Repair itself was not hard, Pop top, unscrew front panel and pull forward to get at the coils under the drum. --THIS IS THE KEY POINT i ENCOUNTERED: I tested the coils and the resistance was right according to the schematic. But still the flame would go out after while. --on a whim I pulled the front cover and tested the coils immediately after the flam wouldn't re-light.---When the coil got warm, it would open (no continuity). When it cooled down again the correct continuity would return. Replaced the coil and no more problem

follow Steve the repairman's instructions they were very good

I started with the process of elimination, based on the web site part failure percentage...so I started with the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse, without success. Next, I placed an order for the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit Part # PS334310. Which, are located behind the lower front panel

Replaced cycling thermostat but wasn't the problem. Tested the coils with ohm meter & found no read on the one with 3 prongs. Replaced both anyway. Top of dryer is held on with 2 clips, popped it off to reveal 2 screws on front panel. Bottom is held by 2 clips must lift straight up. Removed bracket that holds the coils in & removed wires. They only go on 1 way. Installed new coils , no more problems.

First I opened the back panel & check the fuse with multi meter tool ( put in ohms & set it in 200K) & the fuse is Ok, try to run the dryer while looking in the flame dock & the burner starts & had a fire till about 2-3 mins. & flame comes off, what I did is I open the front door to access into the gas burner, check gas valve coils with multi meter tool for continuity & found out that one of the coil doesn't have continuity. I ordered a pair of coil that is located on top of the gas valve on this site & unexpectedly it came in the next day, WOW! that's a fast delivery I was very pleased w/ the service, come home from work & installed it right away & it took me 5-10 mins. Put back everything & try to run it & it works properly. So happy with & my wife as we'll, thanks for the great fast delivery.