MLE20PRCZW0 Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

My husband removed the bottom panel of the washer and removed the old pump with two screws, then removed the water hose coming into the pump and unplugged the electrical push in type plug from the side of the pump. Simple reversed the process to instal the new one and replaced the front panel. Simple really...far more so than calling a repair man.

Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I decided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!

Remove two star screws. Remove broken striker. Installed new striker. Took two mins.

The washing machine would only run on the hot water cycle. When trying to use the warm or cold setting, the water would dribble into the drum and result in an LF error code(long fill). I watched a brief video on replacing the water inlet valve which made it really easy to repair. I first turned off the water, disconnected the hoses from the machine, and opened the top to access the valves. I then disconnected the wires from the valve, removed the water tubes, swapped out the valves and put everything back together. I am not experienced in repair but this was a very easy fix! We decided to replace the single hot water valve and the dual cold water valve since it's an older machine and it works like new again!

1 screw to replace.

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

Pulled the lower front panel located thermal switch pulled 2 wires removed 2 small bolts pulled switch out set meter to ohms scale and tested between the 2 terminals it hailed the test I reversed for installation of new switch

this was very was very easy. But I deviated from the You Tube instructions. One to release the motor pulley. I needed to use 2 adjustable wrenches for a longer lever. I needed to use a hammer to help release pulley. Second to remove the dryer cable I needed to use a small screw driver to aid in the release. ---- the part from the company was a perfect fit.

My husband and son removed the old pump and replaced it with the new pump assembly. The whole process took about 30 minutes max.

The most time consuming part was fitting the hose back on because of the confined space. Once on the rest was a snap. The drain pump installed just the same as the video, so watch the video! I think in total it took about 30 minutes to complete.

Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

For the Ignitor - As involved as taking the dryer completely apart sounded, it was super easy. 1-take out the lint trap and remove the two screws there. 2-Pop open the top with a screw driver and swing the top completely over/back. 3- remove the two screws holding in the front panel and remove the panel. 4- loosen the belt by pushing on the tension roller under the drum on the right and remove the drum (its super light) use the belt as a handle. 5- remove the screw holding in the ignitor and replace it with the new one. Be careful to not touch the new ignitor. Then go backwards putting it back together.

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.

I replaced both the door strike and the female portion. The door still does not close tightly. Heavy, wet items also knock the door open.

Just replaced the old lint filter.