MLE20PRBZW1 Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

unhooked two water lines & electrical plugin unbolted old pump and installed new pump. took about 15 minutes.

removed front of dryer located igniter removed two screws disconnected wires then put new one in also replace thermal fuse and thermostat on back of dryer works great.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Unhooked two hose clamps took two screws off put new aprt on hooked back up works great

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

Unplug machine from electrical outlet.
All screws can be removed with a 1/4" socket, either with a socket wrench or nut driver.
Top panel - remove three screws on back, slide panel back an inch or so, and lift off.
The control panel must be carefully pulled off by using a screwdriver to pry it away, and then placed on top of machine. Be careful not to disconnect or damage any attached wires.
Pull out the detergent dispense drawer, press the retainer on the left rear of dispenser drawer, and pull it out and set it aside. One small torx screw must removed from the dispenser housing.
Bottom front panel - remove three screws to take it off. This exposes the screws on the front panel.
The front panel of machine must be removed as well.
This is the most tedious part of the job, as the door seal must be disconnected from the panel. Remove the wire and spring retainer around the door that holds seal in place. The spring portion of the retainer is on the bottom of the opening. Pry it off with a screwdriver, being careful not to damage the rubber seal. Do not remove it, simply push it into the washer opening.
Remove the screws from the front panel - two on top, and two bottom. It has some wires on the right side, and to avoid damaging them, support the panel with a stool and prop it up against the machine.
You can now access the hose on the rear bottom of the dispenser. Using a pliers, squeeze the retainer and pull the hose off the dispense. The other end is pressed into the tub - simply pull it out. I recommend cleaning the edges of hole to assure a good seal when installing the replacement.
To install the replacement hose, press it into the tub, making sure to get the channel in the hose properly inserted in order to make a solid seal. Attach the other end to the dispenser with the retainer.
Reassemble by reversing the order described above.

Open breaker and ensure power was off. Checked heating components for continuity.Found thermal fuse had an open circuit.Replaced High limit thermostat and thermal fuse.Now is a good time time check for free flowing vent piping.I discovered mine was crimped below the floor and caused lint build up and obstructing the flow which could have led to the thermal fuse blowing.I replaced the vent piping as well.My wife says the dryer works better now than it ever has.

removed bottom panel and took out pump and replaced it with new one

I inserted the clip

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

My husband and son removed the old pump and replaced it with the new pump assembly. The whole process took about 30 minutes max.

My husband removed the bottom panel of the washer and removed the old pump with two screws, then removed the water hose coming into the pump and unplugged the electrical push in type plug from the side of the pump. Simple reversed the process to instal the new one and replaced the front panel. Simple really...far more so than calling a repair man.

Remove two star screws. Remove broken striker. Installed new striker. Took two mins.

The washing machine would only run on the hot water cycle. When trying to use the warm or cold setting, the water would dribble into the drum and result in an LF error code(long fill). I watched a brief video on replacing the water inlet valve which made it really easy to repair. I first turned off the water, disconnected the hoses from the machine, and opened the top to access the valves. I then disconnected the wires from the valve, removed the water tubes, swapped out the valves and put everything back together. I am not experienced in repair but this was a very easy fix! We decided to replace the single hot water valve and the dual cold water valve since it's an older machine and it works like new again!