MLE20PDBYW2 Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Since i knew the filter was cleared of obstructions I knew the code issue was something more serious. After consulting with local repair reps I decided that the drain pump was beginning to slow down causing the faults. First, I took the lower front panel off the front of the washing machine so that I could drain the water out of the plumbing. After draining the water out of the pump into a pan, I went ahead and then lifted the front of the washer (and dryer on top of it) and tilted it back far enough so that my wife could place some blocking under the front of the washer. I did this so that I could access two screws on the bottom of the pump. First disconnect the wire socket connection to the motor. Make sure power is off before doing this. There is plastic clip holding the wires to the motor that may need a screwdriver to pry it apart for removal. There are two 1.5" long screws holding the pump to the frame that require at least 4" of space so that you can remove them with a socket. After removing the two pump screws I disconnected both pump hoses from the pump. This requires pliers for one clamp and screwdriver or nut driver for the other clamp. My machine originally came with one clamp that could not be removed, so I had to use a dremel with a stone to cut the clamp. You have to be careful to not damage the hose when cutting the clamp if it cannot be removed with tools. I replaced it with a 2" typical standard stainless steel hose clamp. Carefully wiggling the pump while pushing it to the side it will loosen up so that the front of the pump can be pulled up. One side needs to have the plastic plate pried apart from underneath and after removing it the pump will come free to lift out. Reverse the removal process for re-installation. It is a little tricky holding the squeeze clamp open while pulling the hose onto the pump, but it is not too difficult. Before putting the front panel on run one load of laundry to make sure there are no leaks. Once you find there are no leaks, then tilt the machine up and back to reattach the front panel. It is much easier to do it this way than with the machine on the floor since the panel screw are on the bottom of the panel at floor level.

Removed top lid (only to be able to remove pressure sensor hose easily). Removed hose clamps and tied the ends together in order to keep in loose position. Then squeezed the damaged hose up between sidewall and tub to remove pressure sensor rubber pipe. Installed Hose with clamps tied in the loose position with thin wire. Attached the pressure sensor pipe. Loosened the thin wire holding clamps loose. Tested for leaks by running washer. Leak repaired.

Replaced drain pump took longer to soak up water than actually replacing the pump motor with mine having the pedestal underneath I did not have to tip the washer at all so it was fast and easy. Three screws taking the front cover off a screwdriver lifting the Rubber and sliding the motor off and pair of pliers 4 to hose clamps making it a breeze.

After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

First tilt the washer back so you can drain water from the lines to the pump and the pump itself. Disconnect the lines with a pair of pliers and use a screwdriver to move the rubber stopper so that the pump will move to the right. With pump now in position to lift up and out of the washer , do it so you can disconnect the wire assembly. Replace the pump starting with the wires, then slide it in place and secure it with the rubber stopper. Attach the lines and make sure they are well sitted and clamped. set on feet and you are ready to wash.

The repair went well, using the whirlpool repair manual and looking at the video from PartSelect. The machine was a bit different than the one in both the video and the manual but that did not cause any problems. The only tricky part was to reinstall the belt "blind" behind the motor, easy to pinch your fingers and also get scratched by the sheet metal edges. To make it easier for that part I supported the drum with the old belt and a bungee cord to the garage frame so I did not have to hold it up and work under it at the same time. When the drum and new belt were in place I just cut the old belt, it was going to the trash anyway.. I replaced the belt and the tension pulley, witch was not turning easy and worn by the belt. I also put some grease ( SUPER-LUBE, www.super-lube.com) on all pulleys. It took about 2 hours because I am 78 years old and have heart problems.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

Removed the top cover of the washer, unclamped the intake hoses from the valves and unplugged their control wires, unscrewed the old valves and removed them from the case, screwed on the new valves, replugged the wires, reclamped the hoses, fastened the top back on.

replaced dryer lint screen with new.

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

Unplugged the washer from electric outlet. Removed front cover by using nut driver to remove the two screws. Drained the water from the washer into a pan by loosening the cap on the filter. Removed the two hoses by compressing clamps with pliers. Unplugged the electric wire from old pump. Used screw driver to pry rubber feet of old pump loose from washer floor panel. Set old pump aside. Installed new pump using a little dish soap to help attach rubber feet to washer. Attached the two hoses using pliers. Plugged electric wire into new unit. Ran washer to check for leaks. Replaced front cover using nut driver on the two screws.