LSG9900AAW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Using the instructions accompanying the belt I bought from you,I removed the casing an front support for the drum. I then tried to follow the instructions to install the new belt from the front and found it to be absolutely impossible.I saw that there is a removeable plate on the lower right corner of the back that,if removed, would expose the motor and idler pulleys that are the object of the installation so I removed it and,without much difficulty, installed the belt. One problem in doing so involved the belt's tendency to slide into the groove in the drum when manipulating it onto the pulley set so I enlisted the aid of my wife to hold it in place from the front while I successfully and rather easily did so.

That would take forever to write in everything you have to do, but I did go to a website that had the steps you must do to complete the repair. You can google tub seal kit and mounting stem and the brand of your appliance and i'm sure you will come across the steps to complete the repair. I would advise you to first order a spanner wrench it makes the job much easier and you really can't complete the job without it. So do that first and then take the machine apart if you suspect it's a tub seal leak and then order your parts. if i had a spanner wrench available to me from the beginning it would have gone much smoother from the start.

Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).

remove front, 2 screws hold top down, 1 screw holds adgitator on, hammer and punch to remove stem nut (clockwise) used wd40, lift tub out, hammer and punch to remove stem (clockwise), pull seal off, put liquid soap on seal and reverse process, no more leaks!!

Unplugged the dryer!!!! Removed two screws from lower front panel. Pulled bottom of front panel forward which allowed clips holding top of panel to release. Unlcipped wires attached to door switch on front panel. Set aside front panel. Removed 4 screws(2 on left & 2 on right) from the drum retainer ring. Set aside retainer ring. Removed thin metal cover protecting blower wires. Removed several screws holding blower cover. Note blower is located on lower left below the lint screen. Used snap ring pliers to remove snap ring securing old blower wheel(an external snap ring). Removed old blower wheel from motor shaft. Inserted new blower wheel on motor shaft. Replaced snap ring. Replaced blower cover. Replaced thin metal wiring cover. Replaced drum retainer ring. Reconnected door switch wiring. Replaced front panel. Done. A hint on the maytag dryer. If your drum wiggles out too far the belt on the drum might not stay aligned. There is a groove on the drum...the belt should NOT sit in this groove...it should ride on the drum about an inch in front of the groove!!!

By doing the work yourself, not only gives you the good feeling you did it yourself and works just like it was when it was new and to know there's part's you can still get from part places like these! Like I say to my wife ( if they meaning a repair shop can do so can't I ). Course changing a motor in a car that's a different story, I'll let someone else to do that. To do the repair I took off the front cover of the washer exposing the tub, motor and other things. But the very first thing I did is unplug the power ( I hate the bad storys that if I only turned off the power ? ) then I took off the cover over the motor and changed the switch. And all in reverse. And plug power back in. Started up just fine.

Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.

popped out old female clasp on dryer itself with screwdriver, undid 2 screws on dryer door and door handle with phillips screwdriver, popped in new male clasp part, put door knob back on and put the two screws back in door and it was all set to go. Less than 15 minutes to do. Better than new and wife is happy. No more duct tape holding door closed now.

Took off face of dryer (two lower screws below door in front) and then removed the drum which gave me access to the idler arm and idler pully. Vaccumed the interior to remove dust and lint. Replaced idler arm and idler pulley assembly. Replace old belt as drum was reinstalled. Opened rear access panel to complete final routing of the new belt over idler pulley and drive motor. Turned the machine on to check repairs and function. Closed rear access door. Pushed dryer back into place and re-leveled machine.

I opened the front of the washer by removing the 2 screws on the bottom front of the washer, then swinging the front upward until it was clear of the hangers at the top. The hose sits right in front. It was cracked where it attaches to the tub. I loosened the hose clamps at the tub & the pump with a nutwrench & removed the old hose. I slid the clamps onto the new hose & put the hose on to the tub & pump. I tightened the clamps, reinstalled the front & was finished.

First I turned off both the hot and cold water supply to the washing machine. I then turned on the washing machine causing it to attempt to fill the tub and thereby releasing any pressure remaining in the watter lines. I then canceled the wash cycle and unplugged the power line to both the washer and dryer. I removed the water lines from the back of the washer, unscrewed the bolt securing the solinoid mounting plated with a pair of slip joint pliers. I slid the plate out of the back of the washer and removed the outlet line from the solenoid valve by unscrewing the clamp with a screwdriver. I removed the old solenoid valve from the mounting plate by unscrewing the mounting screws with a screwdriver. I reassembled the washing machine in the reverse process.

The task to replace the tub seal would have been relatively easy had it not been for the need of a special spanner wrench to remove the nut securing the seal. Instead of purchasing the one time use spanner wrench which was only available on line and would have delayed my repair I elected to cut the putty metal nut off with a cutting dremel tool. This was a delecate process to ensure one did not damage anything else in the process of cutting the nut. Once complete a set screw, pipe wrench and common screwdriver, hammer and tap punch was all that was used. Easy process from removal to installation and the leak was fixed saving significant $$$ over having a "maytag repairman" perform the fix...parts select video helped describe everything and cost while not cheap was significantly less for an adept DIY customer.

After reading the description of the problem and finding the source of the leak I decided to buy the parts suggested.
To begin:
1. Unplug and turn off water valves at the wall.
2. Unscrew the two front phillips head screws that hold the front of the machine on. Pull off the front facing panel of the washer.
3. There are two hex head screws that hold the lid on. Remove these and then the lid can be lifted to see the nozzle and the valve.
4. Unscrew the pipe clamp that hold the valve on to the pipe.
5. Take out the old valve and nozzle.
6. Use water or soap to lubricate the nozzle and valve before replacing.
7. Install the new parts and reinstall the pipe clamp.
8. Replace the lid and the screws.
9. Replace the face cover and the screws.
10. Plug in the machine and turn on the valves and test.

I tested the machine and thought I could save the water and run another cycle later. This is a bad idea. The water fills up and over the top when a new cycle is added because there is no water level sensor. If you decide to test it and need to empty the water instead of wash a load you can turn the dial to spin and it will drain your test water.
Best

Sans manual, I turned to the web to find out how to open up the dryer. Maytag uses two Phillips screws on the bottom front panel. Once removed, the front pulls out at the bottom and slides free from the top. Caution, wires on the left side of the front panel prevent total detachment from the dryer. A 1/4 hex screwdriver was used to remove the cover to the blower housing. Once the cover is unbolted attached wires prevent its complete removal and can be set clear of the blower housing. Pliers were used to remove a pinch clamp from the squirrel cage fan (blower assembly) and snap ring pliers were needed to remove the retaining snap ring. The fan was easily removed from the motor's rotor. The loose fan caused damage to the blower housing which I believe was the source of the original rattle. Once the fan had been removed, the housing was removed by using a 5/16 socket on the end of an extension. The replace parts were installed in reverse order and fit perfectly. Other work included the replacement of the drive belt for the drum. PartSelect was chosen because it had the parts in stock and could be shipped overnight.

It was very easy to access the parts that needed to be replaced (blower wheel, belt, and glides).
1. Unplug the dryer power cord.
2. Removed the two screws at the bottom of the front dryer panel. Pull the bottom of the panel forward, which frees the retaining clips at the top of the panel.
3. Disconnect the two wires from the back of the panel, and remove the panel. The drum will be resting on the motor/blower hosuing.
4. Slide the belt off of the back of the tumbler, and remove the tumbler (have to angle it a bit, to clear the frame) and the belt.
5. Remove the thermostat cover (piece of angled sheet metal, in front of the blower unit).
6. Remove the screws from the blower housing, and lay it forward, to expose the blower wheel.
7. Remove the snap ring, and then the retaining ring from the blower wheel. Remove the old wheel.
8. Install the new wheel, then the retaining ring, and then the snap ring. Reattach the cover to the blower assembly.
9. Reattach the thermostat cover.
10. On the tumbler, drill out the rivets for each of the glides, and remove all glide parts. Install new glides.

This is a good time to complete any general cleaning inside the dryer cabinet, especially in the area of the motor. Since there is limited access to the motor itself, might help to use the blower function of a shopvac to blow out that dust.
Vacuum out all lint from around the felt drum seals.

11. Loop the new belt over the tumbler, and install the tumbler (the glides go towards the front of the dryer). Note: to keep the belt from falling off, I taped it to the drum with two pieces of painters tape..the blue tape that comes back off easily.
12. On the back of the dryer, remove the access panel, and complete installation of the belt to the idler pulley.
13. If you taped the belt to the drum....don't forget to remove the tape now. Reinstall front panel to dryer.

This was my first experience working with snap ring retaining rings. Even with snap ring pliers, they are difficult to remove without stretching them out. Be sure to order a new one with your blower wheel.

Also my first experience using a pop rivet gun ( to install the new glides). Found a rivet gun at Lowes for $9.99. Worked okay, and all rivets set properly. Good thing, because you don't get any extras with the glide kits.

After replacing the parts, and starting up the dryer, all of the clunking/squelling/rumbling noises were gone. There was a noticable smell while the new glides got broken in...smelled a bit like melting rubber. However, after a couple of drying cyles, the odor was gone.