LSE7806ADQ Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

FIRST unplug dryer from electrical source, CAUTION, the top of this dryer does not open with clips, do not pry on top to open! On the front of the dryer look under the lower panel, and find two screws, one on the left side, and one on the right, remove these screws, and pull slightly down on panel to remove. Behind this panel find two screws holding the door panel, one on the left, and one on the right, remove the left, and support the door panel while removing the right side. Gently pull the bottom of door panel outward, and the clips on top of door panel will unhinge from top, carefully rotate left side of door panel to floor, and note the wire connections on switch, and orientation of switch, then unplug wires, and move door panel to a comfortable working positon. Door must be open to remove switch, then depress the two plastic retaining keepers on each side of switch, and push switch through toward door. Replace with new switch, reconnect the wires, and reassymble in reverse order. Remember, door assymbly must be inserted in dryer top at an angle, and then bottom rotated downward, and bottom panel nylon guildes inserted into door panel bottom.

The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.

replace it

I took out the old lint filter...and slipped the new one in. Pefect fit.

Firstly, remove ac power from washer!
After removing the front panel of the washer (two philips screws), I loosened and removed the plastic motor cover and removed three hex head screws holding the motor. Have someone help you tilt the washer so you can remove the belts by "rolling" them off of the pullies (pump pully and motor pully). What I did was use a chemical degreaser to clean the motor base metal channel where the nylon sliders reside. After doing that and letting it dry, I removed the two old
springs. I ended up reinstalling the old springs because they were not stretched and I installed a new spring (total three) on the right side of the mount. A stiff metal rod with a hook on the end will help you install the springs. Squirt some of the included silicone lubricant on both sides of the motor mount channel and exercise the lube. Reinstall the motor and plastic cover over top of motor. Clean hands and clean belts while you have them out, reinstall belts and front cover and you're finished. My wife said it never ran better!

After removing more bolts and screws than I needed to, here's how to replace the blower wheel on the stacked washer/dryer Maytag SG1000.

Turn off the power.

Remove the two screws on the access panel, which is the canted panel just below the dryer door, and remove the panel.

Remove the two screws at the top of the dryer door. These screws are on top of the dryer facing downward, and unless you're Yao Ming, you won't see them without a stepstool. You can then lift up the door and swing it out from the bottom.

There are two wires attached to the door which you should disconnect. You can set the door aside without disconnecting any other wires.

Next, remove the lint filter and the housing assembly it fits into. First, disconnect the ground wire connected to the upper-left corner of the housing, then remove 4 hex-screws accessed from inside the dryer tumbler.

You should take this opportunity to thoroughly remove lint from inside the housing.

The blower housing is now accessible. Remove the screws on the periphery of the blower housing cover (a.k.a. faceplate), and remove the cover.

The blower wheel is held in place by an external retaining ring and by a blower clamp. The replacement blower wheel came with a new blower clamp, and that clamp can be manipulated with a regular pair of pliers. I went out and bought a pair of snap ring pliers to deal with the retaining ring.

After removing the retaining ring and then taking off the blower clamp, I removed the old wheel. The new wheel was a little tough to put on, but after reading the story of the people who used a hammer to break their wheel, I just pushed on it until it popped on. I used my pliers to install the new clamp, then re-installed the retaining ring and the blower housing cover.

Reinstall the lint duct housing, making sure housing duct centers into the blower seal (looks like a felt circle). Reconnect the ground wire.

While you're inside the tumbler, at the front end of the tumbler just below the door there is a black plastic sensor with two metal bars on it called an automatic dry sensor. Fabric softener can coat the metal bars and cause the sensor to not function. Lightly sand the metal bars to remove any buildup.

Reconnect the wires to the dryer door. Reinstall the door by tilting the bottom in first, guiding the clips on the bottom of the door into the slots they fit in, then push the top of the door into position. Reinstall the screws at the top.

Reinstall the access door.

Turn the power back on! Done!

My washer stopped spinning, even though I could hear the motor running. I did some research and found out there was two belts, opened mine up and it was broken. I replaced the belt in five minutes, start to finish. Now it's running like new.

I replace the belts - 5 min
I tried to replace the glides...I couldn't figure out how to do that..I took out the motor and and the glide mechanism...but I could not get glide braket separate from the motor mount..so i did not do this
I replace the springs and added 1 extra sping...3 instead of 2..it worked

First I removed the screws that held the side panels on at the bottom, then I removed the screws that held the front panel on and removed the panel. I removed the agitator, loosened the retaining nut with a hammer and a punch, removed the bolts holding the tub springs, removed the bolts for the top panel and flipped it out of the way. Then I removed the clamp for the inner tub and pulled it out, then I pulled the outer tub out. Then I removed the seal and scrubbed the rust off the seal mating area, then installed the new seal and re-assembled the washer. It works perfectly now and no longer leaks and it is over 20 years old. This is the first bit of problem we have had out of this machine, the lonely Maytag repairman commercials are true.

I loosened three screws to relieve the belt tension and removed the belt from the pump drive pulley. After removing the water from the wash tub I removed the intake and output hoses from the pump. I next removed the mounting screws and removed the pump. I attached the new pump loosely and re-attached the belt. I moved the pump to tighten the belt tension and tightened the mounting screws. I re-attached the hoses, filled with water, checked for leaks and replaced the front panel.

Just placed the new filter in place. Fit fine and works well.

Pryed the front cover off and set it aside. I pulled the top cover off by removing the 1/2" hex screws under the front cover and hinged it back. Removed the agitator set screw with a 1/4" hex nut driver and pulled out the agitator assembly. Had to remove the nut that holds the hub assembly in by using a hammer and punch. There is not much room in the tub so be careful you don't hit the sides. It goes off by turning it clockwise. Then the splash guard comes off and then the inner tub with the top gasket and ring can be lifted out of the washer. The tapered cork covered hub was exposed and it also had to be removed with a hammer and punch clockwise after removing the torx set screw on the side of the hub. The rubber seal was now able to be removed under the hub and on top of the bearing on the outer tub. I had to clean all the accumulated scale off seal and bearing surfaces before putting new parts in (rubber seal, hub assembly, and new locking nut). Everything went back easily. Should be good for another 5-10 years...

After making sure the lines and screens are clean, and there is good water flow thru the hoses to the valves, and there is power to the valve solenoids, (which can be detected by setting to fill and pulling out on the start knob), and hearing a "click" at the valve, you can summize that the valve is weak, or partially blocked internally.
Replace the valve by unpluging the power cord to the machine. Remove the hoses. Remove the screw that attaches the valve mounting plate. Pull the plate and valve out and remove the screw that attaches the valve to the plate. Unplug the wires from the solenoides,[IMPORTANT] noting which wires go to each valve. Remove the rubber hose on top of the valve by squeezing the hose clamp with a pair of pliers, and sliding the clamp up the hose. Now you can pull the hose off. Install the new valve in the reverse order.

Made a 4 prong wrench from a 2" pipe coupling to remove retaining nut. Had to tap retaining washer a few times with hammer and after that it came off very easy. All other work was very easy. parts went together with ease. Saved company several $'s as we were told it was not recomended to repair and should replace washer. Under $100 for parts and a couple hours labor.

1 Disconnect dryer from electrical outlet
2 remove vent pipe
3 Tilt dryer backwards and remove front cover bottom 2 philips screws.
4 remove lint assembly and then the fan blower housing with nut driver.
5 with pliers remove retainer clip from fan
6 remove snap ring with pliers or a flat blade screw driver will also work.
7 remove fan
at the same time I replaced the front glides if you do not want to do this then reinstall in reverse order and job is complete.

for glide replacement
1 remove the 4 screws holding the outer ring to the frame of the dryer.
2 drill out old rivits from the back side and then knock out. be careful to only drill rivit and not into metal frame
3 install new new glides makesure you install in correct direction.
4 install pop rivets with stud end on top side of glide. pushing rivet through glide and into the frame ring.
5 pop rivits and make sure they are secure.
6 reinstall ring making sure seal is around ring correctly
7 reintal 4 screws.
8 follow reassembly of blower and lint housing if you changed the fan. if not then just the lint assembly.

good luck the job is really easy and you will save yourself some money