MLG2000AWW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.

Removed one screw and took out old broken door strike, replaced with new door strke and put screw back in. Only took two three days to get the part. The dryer is as good as new!

I replaced the boot seal. I unscrewed and took off the front door and front panel; I unscrewed and removed the detergent compartment; unbolted and lifted up the top panel. I removed the old worn out gasket and replaced the anterior (door side) portion first, then the posterior portion. the door side pushes right in by hand but I used a putty spatula to firmly seat it evenly in place. For ease of closing the spring loaded wire on the posterior portion of the gasket, one person held one end of the wire and gasket in place and a 2nd held the other side in place and pulled the spring with pliers to connect and seal the gasket. replacing the boot seal requires 1 person, but having a 2nd person around to help with the spring was helpful. this was an easy project that takes about an hour.

First I removed front and rear covers and the dispenser screws. If you are carefull you can fold the front cover back and lay it on top of the washer so that you do not have to unplug all the wires. Remove the clips on the front of the outer drum with a small flat blade screwdriver and set aside. Go to the back and roll the belt off the pulley. Remove bolt and snap ring and the pulley should pull toward you off of the shaft. This is plastic be carefull. The inner drum will now pull out thru the front of the machine. Now read the directions again and again about the seal because you have to replace exactly what you take out. This is my only complaint with the directions there needs to be a picture and not an illustration of the placement of the sael and the spacer in my case.

The old sensor came out by removing 2 screws. I unplugged the two wires from the back of the sensor and plugged them into the new sensor. I reinstalled the new sensor using the same two screws. Of course, I unplugged the dryer first.

This was fairly easy, I have had the dryer front off before. Unplug dryer from electrical outlet. Pull dryer away from wall. Remove the dryer door, open dryer door there are 2 phillips screws on dryer door hing, remove these crews then lift gently and remove door, across from these screws, where dryer door closes into face cover of dryer remove 2 more phillips screws. From top of face cover, pull out front of face cover and lift to remove face cover of dryer. On each side of dryer on the front, after removing the front cover is a 5/16 bolt, remove these and pull off retaining bracket with a twisting motion. You now can lift the top of the dryer up. You can now see the barrel drum. Rotate barrel by hand so the broken baffle is on top. Remove two 5/16 bolts, and replace new baffle in place. Reassemble in reverse order of disassemble.

I removed the 2 screws holding the door and then the balance of the screws holding the front section on. Removed the trim piece and then the screws holding the detergent tub and top of the washer. Once the boot was exposed I used two pair of pliers to hold either end of the retainer strap and pushed together to relieve the spring tension. Then disconnected the drain hose from the bottom of the boot and removed the boot. Re-assembly was just a reverse of the disassembly and much easier than I anticipated. Placing the boot around the fron of the tub was like putting a bycycle innertube on a rim. Once you get it completely on then you place the retainer strap around the boot and attach by hooking the spring to one end and pulling the spring toward the other. (better if two people do that part but can be done by one) The front of the boot slides into the slots fairly easy and then you simply re-connect the drain tube in the front of the boot and reassemble the cabinet.

followed the diagnostics instruction in the Maytag Owners booklet which pointed to the Motor Control Assembly.
PartSelect was a very good choice for securing the part.

Figured out it had to be the timer after checking unit out and with a little research. Ordered a timer, it was so simple to replace just unscrewed cover and removed timer, it just plugs in, hooked it back up works like a charm.

First I unplugged the dryer. I shut off the gas line to the dryer. I opened the access door on the lower front of the dryer. I illuminated the interior of the dryer with a small flashlight that was mounted on two legs with magnets on the end to allow the light to be specifically directed. I took few digital pictures of the electrical connections to the dryer gas valve and the various sensors attached to the unit. I shut off the gas line valve to which the dryer gas valve was attached. I removed the two screws holding the dryer gas valve an lifted the unit out of the dryer. I vacuumed the inside of the dryer with an electric vacuum and also vacuumed the lint and dust off the gas valve I took out of the dryer. The flat style igniter was mounted on the front of the gas value. I removed two screws and took off the old flat style igniter. I reattached the new flat style igniter (carefully holding it by the ceramic mounting area to avoid breaking the igniter itself). I reinserted the gas valve into the dryer and reattached the two screws holding the gas valve into the dryer. I reattached the gas valve to the gas line in the dryer. I reattached the electrical connectors to the gas line and the sensors in the dryer. I turned the gas line in the house to the dryer back on. I plugged in the dryer and started it. No ignition.! I unplugged the dryer and reached in through the access door. I angled the flashlight to each of the sensors attached to the gas valve and the dryer electrical harness and pushed each one to make sure the electrical contacts were solid. When I checked the flame sensor ( a little box with a window mounted over a rectangle cut in the wall of the cylinder in which the flame burns when the gas is shooting out of the valve) the lower wire was unattached to the sensor. (Because the sensor sits on the side of the cylinder pointing towards the interior of the dryer its connections at the sensor was not visible. I bought a new flame sensor. I detached the old flame sensor from its connector, removed the screw mounting it to the cylinder and lifted it out of the tab holding it to the cylinder. I installed the new flame sensor by putting its tab in the slot for the tab in the cylinder and reattached the screw holding the flame sensor to the cylinder. I reconnected the electrical connection from the flame sensor to the dryer electrical harness. I plugged in the dryer. I turned the dryer on and got ignition of the dryer heater flame. Repair complete!

My boyfriend took the dryer apart but was not available for the reassembly. I simply pulled up the detailed diagram that Part Select had in their database and was able to put it back together, although a little slower than anticipated.

Thank you for everything.

Yanked the front panel, observed motor operation while my smoking hot wife started the unit. Our washer and dryer get beaten like rented mules with kid laundry. I tried this site, and decided to spend a little $$ on a replacement motor. I was impressed with the operator, she even asked what the symptoms were and helped to avoid wasting time and money.
The part arrived on time, and installed quickly. I am a hero in my wife's eyes, and that certainly carries weight.
Then again, I didn't have to dispose of the old dryer, pay for a new one, or haul the replacement upstairs.
Win-win!

The good: No need to pull out dryer beyond point where (wall) gas valve could be shut off.
The gotcha: Be sure to wear thick leather gloves to protect your hands. I discovered sharp edges the hard way!
The tip: To loosen gas valve inlet nut and to remove gas pipe from valve, use a bottom-to-top wrench motion. Despite threads being right-handed, this counter-intuitive operation (the thinking is that you are tightening the nut instead of loosening it) is necessary due to nut being located on the valve rather than the gas pipe which reverses the context.
The ending: Wife is happy to be back in the drying business and I'm happy just to have her happy not to mention saving a little $ in the process! Thanks PartSelect.com!!!

Unplugged the unit
Removed door and two clips that hold front panel on (6 Philip crews)
Then removed front panel by hand hold each side of the panel at the top
Of the “U” shape and pulling out ward until it frees it self from the two
Bottom clips.
You can now see a belt that is no longer tight around the drum
When I tried to put the belt back on I noticed the idler pulley was flopping around and I would need to replace it .That where you guys saved me.
Your exploded model and parts list made it easy to see exactly what parts I
Needed to order.
The rest gets a little tricky there is another plate that supports the barrel
A couple of clips that hold the top cover in place all of this must be removed
Note the top cover only need to be lifted up an inch or two at the front where the
Two steel clips where and doses not need to be removed to get this panel off that
Supports the barrel.
There are some wires attached to it also I only had to unplug the three that go to
The door safety switch then I was able to rotate it off to the side out of the way
And now the barrel can be lifted out. You can now remove the idler pulley assembly
I used pliers to remove the spring and a crocket wrench to remove a bolt that holds
The bracket that also should be replaced due to ware at the idler pulley barring pin
The tricky part is putting it all back together again. To explain this I would need to Wright a book. It takes a lot of good common sense. I was proud of how I reached
Around from each side of the motor and by feel alone and get the belt around
The motor pulley and the idler pulley that keeps the belt tight around the barrel
Makes me think I should have been a repairman.

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.