LSG7804AAL Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

removed screws on front of washer, removed bolts holding top cover hinged back, nut driver to remove agitator, slipped agitator off, removed tub hoses, did not have special wrench to remove large nut on shaft, used punch and grinder to removed, had new large nut so wasn't concerned about damaging old one, pay attention to thread pattern to know how to turn, if you had special wrench job would be easier, removed spring bolts and took out inside drum and tub. cleaned corrosion and installed new seals, can be hard to slip on new seal, don't use grease, get dishwashing soap to use as lubricant to put on. Put back together and all is good.

Well, I figured out a couple of things during this process. #1 The Washer was smoking. It had happened before (a sock got suck between the basket and the tub) so I assumed that happened again. I couldn't see anything in that space this time, so I dissasbemled the washer to see if any clothing was there. Relatively easy once finding the screws to remove the front panel. #2 What I found was a sock in the pump box. I disconnected the hoses and removed it, saw nothing between the basket and tub and ran it to see if problem corrected itself. It still was smoking. That is when I checked the belts, #3 first the pump belt, replaced it, very easy, just pulled the old one off, and wheeled the new one on. It still was smoking, #4 so I replaced the drive belt, very easy and the same as the pump belt. It still was smoking so I lubed the wheels for the belts, and #5 cleaned the residual rubber around the wheel from the old, fried, dry rotted drive belt. No more smoke!!! However #6 remember to leave space between the basket and the top of the tub, as when I put the washer back together the basket didn't spin. I removed the top and ran the spin cycle, it spun fine, reconnected and it didn't spin, the tub top was touching the basket, that's when I relized the top was on too tight. I reattached and left about 1/4 in of space and all is well now.

After I replaced the timer, the washer still would not wash or spin. So my son replaced the lid check switch. It was hard to remove the screw, but he finally managed to remove it and easily replaced the switch. The washer works perfectly. We kept the timer installed (also easy to do by removing the old and replacing it with the new by just unplugging wires and I think one screw) because the old one had not worked properly for a few years when I had a similar problem which resolved, except it would only work in main cycle with soaking which was sufficient for me. This large capacity washer is in good shape and I hope will last at least another 5 - 10 years. ).

Determined that the lid switch was not completing the circuit. I then removed the 3 wires from their posts along with the 1 screw and removed the bad switch. Then, in reverse order installed the new switch. The part was 1/3rd the cost of the part sold locally. I ordered the part at 3:15pm Monday afternoon and it arrived at 1:00pm Tuesday- the next day. UNBELEIVABLE SERVICE....!

First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.

First I removed the front panel on the dryer. While the dyer was running, I noticed the igniter did not turn its normal amber color and ignite the gas supply. I then disconnected the wire to the igniter and removed the screw holding the igniter in place. Next I replaced the igniter, tightened the screw and reconnected the wire. Finally, I replaced the front panel. This is a relatively simple repair.

Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.

Thinking the water pump was not doing its job in removing all of the water after the rinse cycle, I replaced the water pump.

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove front cover (2 screws).
3. Pull belt and hoses off pump body (watch for water in drain hose!).
4. Remove 3 screws holding pump to bottom pan. 5. Reverse process with new pump.

This job is straighforward, and it helps to have 2 wood blocks to prop up the front of the washer.

Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem. Actual cause of the water in the tub was a leaking inlet valve (solenoid assy).

In addition to the other helpful suggestions:

The key to replacing the motor is to remove the motor while it is still clipped in to the bracket (after removing the blower assembly, of course.) Don't remove the tumbler and belt thinking it will give you clear access to the rear clip, because it won't.

Removing the bracket is not complicated. There are two screws that are fairly easy to access and keep the bracket in place (refer to parts diagram for location); when the screws are removed, out comes the motor assembly (after disconnecting the wires, of course.) This is the only way to get access to the two clips that hold the motor to the bracket.

As for those pesky clips, I was able to use a flat screwdriver in one hand and vice grips in the other to pry off the clips. After a few tries, working on one end of the clip, I was able to apply quite a lot of downward pressure without braking the end of the clip. If anyone has another suggestion....

Putting the clips back on was much easier. First, remount the motor to the bracket, making sure to rotate the motor to the 2 o'clock position so you can re-attach the ground wire (or else you'll have to unclip the motor again, like I did!) Then re-attach the clip on one side. With the clip aligned properly, bear down with a flat screw driver on the other end of the clip. A swift knock with a hammer on the top of the screwdriver will easily re-attach the clip. Repeat with the second clip.

If you proceed carefully and patiently, this job can be accomplished without specialized tools or expertise.

How to disassemble the dryer has been covered in past repair stories. I will add a make shift repair that will get you up and running until you get your replacement blower wheel. We repair gas dryers for a living and this repair works and some machines are still running for two years. Remove the blower wheel. Cut a piece of plumber strap of similar sized metal to about 3/16" x 1/2". Hold it with vise grips and then heat it with a torch. When it is hot melt it into the hole in the blower wheel. This will give you a flat spot in the shaft hole that will keep the blower from spinning on the motor shaft. Some trial and error fitting is involved. If you do it carefully the blower wheel will fit very nicely and will not vibrate or make noise.

followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly
To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.

STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in...
THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure:
The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference.
Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things.
Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.

I looked at the common problems in the owners manual and one item was the lid was not closed or the lid switch was bad. I took off the control panel and there was a schematic inside. This showed 2 lid switches. When trying to see if one switch was closed as it should be, touching the multimeter to the contacts was enough to get the washer going. .

checked lid switch ,plunger stuck in the in position 1 amp fuse blown took switch apart it was full of green copper corrosion stopping plunger from moving correctly. replaced switch and fuse and wow washer works

Unplugged the dryer (electric), removed two screws at bottom of front panel and removed front panel. Pulled electrical clips from sensor lugs near center.front of drum exterior. Located sensor inside front of drum interior, removed screw at each end. Removed old sensor, placed new sensor in position, attached with screws. Installed electrical clips on lugs, closed front panel and secured with two screws. Plugged in the dryer and it worked!