LSE7806BCE Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I set the dryer on its back to make alignment of the front drum guide cover easy to reinstall in the seal after completion. I removed the 2 screws at the bottom front then removed the white and yellow wires to the interlock switch and set the front cover aside. I then removed the 4 nut screws holding the front drum cover and removed. On the back side there are two teflon and cork "bearings". I had ordered two even though only one was worn down to metal. On each one I then removed the two rivets by drilling them out. Then I placed the corks into the bearing slots with a little glue then inserted the teflon into the slots and riveted them into place with the rivets that came with the kit. I replaced the drum cover, connected the switch and screwed the dryer front cover back on. I set the dryer back up. Connected the vent hose and turned the dryer on. Beautiful sweet smooth and quiet operation. I had replaced the front and back drum seals a few months ago and saw the teflon was missing but did not have the kits at that time. With a complete job I would recommend replacing the front and rear drum seals and the two teflon/cork bearing kits at the same time.

This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.

Hardest part was figuring out how to access the internals (not through the back or the top) It turns out there are two screws on the lower front of the machine, not easily found, which when removed allow the front panel of the machine to swing to front and out of the way allowing full access to the internals from the front. The water was comming from one of two water pump hoses. The hose was held in place with 1" hose clamps and was easily changed out.

Remove front panel. Then remove top of washer, two bolts at front of top. Then remove two bolts that hold switch assembly to top on right side of top. Switch gets pried out. It just sits in with small pins holding it in place. Wire connectors hold very tight. Install is reverse.

Unhooked H and C water lines. Removed cover plate with control valves. Pulled power wires off solenoid valves. Remove exit water hose clamp then hose. Put new valves on in reverse process. Checked washer through cycle to see it worked all OK. Had to make new mount ro install valves.

I used two vise grip wrenches in place of specialized tool that is no longer available. I put the vice grip wrenches on the brake assembly and hit them alternately with a hammer. I also used penetrating oil.

Note, the parts package stated made in USA but the bearings had China stamped on them.

took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done

Old latch and door striker were pried out with a flat blade screwdriver. New components popped right in. Repair was less than two minutes.

I inserted the clip

First I removed the four screws that hold the back cover of the control panel. I then disconnected the two wires from the buzzer and removed two screws holding the buzzer. Install the new buzzer.

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

I followed Dan from Mason OHIO instructions.They were perfect. I have a different series washer so I did not need the washer and retaining ring. I used 2 lengths of 4x4 to support the tub when smacking the bearing with the narrow side of a 2x4 to drive it out. You hit it from the inside of the tub. When installing the new one, use the wide side of the 2x4 to drive it flush.

The instructions were clear. Did every step. Did 2 loads so far and everything works like new.

My washer is apparently 37 years old. I bought it used in the 90’s and have had to do little or nothing to it repair wise. It started to make a loud squeal/squeak when the spin cycle stopped. I watched a couple videos showing the brake assembly, bearings and belt replacement and was able to find parts. However, one bearing appears to no longer be made (just repacked with heavy duty grease) and the special tool is nonexistent. I read others using a chain clamp vise to remove the brake assembly and bought a 20 inch chain clamp vise and a 3 set variety of vise grip pliers for about $20. They make an 18 inch chain vise but glad I got the 20 inch. I used two vise grip pliers to clamp chain around notch two notches that the specialty tool would normally grab. It was a cumbersome getting in there to whack the pliers with a small sledge hammer so I got a approx 18 inch 2x4 and cut a notch at the end to keep chain vise from digging into bottom of washer and whacked the end of the 2x4. Seemed to work ok and did the same to tighten back after replacing break assembly. Got it out back together and no more squeal.

Removed front cover, removed housing cover, took old fan off, installed new fan, put covers back on.
Your instructional video was very helpful. He told which screws to remove to get the covers off. I was unsure about how access the fan until I watched. Well done!