MLE20PDAZW0 Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Turn of the electrical power to the machine. I took off the cover on the machine below the door. You had to use phillips screwdriver to get the three screws out. In order to replace the pump I had to lift the washing machine about three inches up slightly over to one side (needed a strong person to lift as there was a dryer on top of it). The old pump has to be removed with a nutdriver as there are two nuts holding the pump in place under the machine ( I had to run out to the hardware store to buy a smaller one to fit under the machine as the big wrench was to big to fit under the machine). I unplugged the electrical connection to the pump. I unclamped the hoses attached to the pump using a plier, make sure you have something to hold water that will drain from the hose. I then push/pull the old pump to the right out of its place, it is attached to the metal at the bottom of the machine. I put in the new pump and tighten the screws on the bottom (this is the tricky part as you cannot see - a mirror may help). I also reattached the hoses and electrical connection. I turned on the machine to rinse to make sure there were no leaks before putting back the cover. Before throwing out the old pump, you can shake it and look in the opening of the old pump for any valuables left in pockets that may have washed out. I found a 18k bracelet, 25 cents and a small screw which may have caused the hole in the pump . Good luck :)

I searched the internet for parts because we had just had a repairman out to fix the knocking noise in the washer drum. He found an underwire from a bra there and removed it. That cost about $100.

My husband took apart the bottom panel and showed me what the part looked like and I was able to find it on your website. I was able to order the parts and have my husband repair the washer so I was only without a washer for a week and a half. Thank you.

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

the problem was not the igniter its was the thermal fuse I broke the igniter during inspection of the problem be careful its a very easy thing to break repairs complete thank you parts select for the quick shipping and low prices

Replaced

First, I opened up the front of the dryer and then unscrewed the entire back piece. I assembled the new exhaust piece from the kit. Next, I took out the old straight rear exhaust and then replaced it with the elbow shaped left eshaust from the kit. Lastly, reattache the back and front pieces of the dryer.

Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.

Our dryer would not heat and it seemed that no gas was coming from the regulator. The igniter was working fine but the burner never turned on. To check the problem, i followed the instructions to remove all body panels until I had access to the burner assembly. I dismantled both gas valve coils and tested each one for open or closed circuit using my multi-tester. I found that the three terminal gas valve coil was an open circuit and was not functioning so I ordered a new one from PartSelect and within just a couple days, had the drier back up and functioning. I also replaced the igniter due to a malfunctioning igniter that has been changed by the manufacture. I must say that PartSelect has the fastest shipping I have ever seen. One part I ordered was at my door in less than 24 hours and I only paid standard shipping...un real! OUTSTANDING....5 STAR SERVICE

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.

The water pump housing was leaking due to some pre-existing damage and leaking on the floor. The repairman wanted 60.00 just to show up. I purchased a replacement pump from PartsSelect.com and installed it myself by taking off the bottom front panel (two screws on the bottom and unclamping the two hoses from the pump and the two screws holding the pump to the frame and then unsnapping the wiring coupler from the old pump. I pulled the old pump out through the front of the machine. I then installed the new pump and replaced the front cover. I saved myself a lot of money and everything went smoothly! The machine works great.

I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

Initially we thought the problem was the igniter, so we ordered an igniter kit. Installed it but was unsuccessful. We then went on the websight and read further, about 50% of dryers with no heat but working had a problem with the thermal fuse.So we ordered the thermal fuse installed it, which was very easy, and success. Once the problem was diagnosed properly it was fast and easy. Recommend looking at the statistics for specific problem.

Open the bottom screws (hex-screw driver. remove riongs with pliers. use pan to remove excess water remained in pipes. pull to the right and remove. easier than it seems,

Took the old filter out and inserted the new one- works great!!