MLE20PDAGW0 Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Cleaned out years of fuzz behind lower access panel and noticed where the igniter sits there is a metal tube about 1 inch in diameter. It had rust on the end and was starting to flake away. Found some helpful hints about how to test the igniter. Very easy, just used an ohmeter. Unplugged the 2 pin wire connector and checked for continuity. 1 lead on 1 pin and the other on the other pin., igniter side not the harness side from the dryer. A good igniter should read less than 5 ohms. I don't know the spec. exacttly, but it should not read open or infinite resistance. My meter read an open circuit. Removed the tube and igniter assembly, mine only 2 small bolts. I found the igniter element cracked. Ordered and installed igniter and tube assembly. This was a very easy install. 20 year old dryer works great and it's better than spending $500.00+ on a new one.

The exact part for this oven is no longer available. I purchased one hat was close in size, but larger than the original. Upper and lower brackets hold the glass in place, so length was not a problem but height was. I removed the upper brackets, re-shaped them with the vise, a hammer and metal shears. The glass would now sit inside the bracket where the screws also went. I had to be quite careful the screws did not shatter the new glass.

The hardest part was aligning the 4 holes for the top brackets. Since 2 holes were on one piece of the door, and 2 were on the other (holding the glass sandwiched between) precision was critical. Also the screw length was critical because the glass now sat in a area where it could come in contact with the screws. (I know - pictures would be most helpful, and I didn't take any.)

Using tape and lots of patience, I got the holes aligned. I covered the old holes inside the oven door with spare screws. I filed down the points of the sheet metal screws so that, if they contacted the glass, they would not be pointed.

Once everything was reassembled, I turned the oven on high for about 1/2 hour to ensure the heated metal and glass all played nicely together. We've had no problems in the month since the repair.

Removed the 6 screws securing the door and inner frame unit. Lifted off the frame and inner glass unit. Then, after cleaning all the broken glass, put the new glass in; first reattaching the inner frame and then the outer door cover.

The other comments from folks who had done this were very helpful!
I had to go look up the directions for removing the door. To do this flip the latches on the hinges and then close the door as far as you can and pull up, it will come out.
Now lay the door flat on the kitchen counter and take out the 6 screws you can see on the edges and inside of the door. They are all the same so you don't have to keep them organized. Now you can take off the outer door with the handle (lift the inner door out since you will have the door face down at this point) and get it out if the way. Remove the hinges and set them aside but don't get them mixed up.
Next, take out the screws on the inner glass rails, there are two rails. Keep those rails in order for replacement. Take out the middle glass and clean it (this took oven cleaner and a razor blade on the one I had).
Take the middle of the door apart and expose the soft gasket (don't move it!). Clean out any broken glass and Insert your new glass. Put the middle piece of the door back on and line up all the screw holes! Put the first of the glass rails back on and the cleaned middle glass back in place, then the second glass rail. Put in the two screws that hold the glass rails.
Now you are ready to put the door back together. USE THE BOX TO HOLD THE DOOR OFF THE COUNTER WHILE YOU PUT THE HINGES BACK IN AND PUT THE DOOR FRONT BACK ON! If the screw holes don't all line up start the screws and work your way around, you'll get them to go in.
Voila! Door fixed.

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

Watched instructions, Ordered the kit and repair was fairly easy until the time to line up the cover over the fan wheel. That was difficult part. Would be best to have two people at this point to hold it and align the screw holes. Otherwise its was a fairly easy operation.

Watched videos on line on how to repair. Replaced all four Drum Rollers, Belt and Idler Pulley, cleaned out inside of unit.

It was a matter of swapping out the old door with new door. In all, it was a snap . Around 10 screws to take it apart and a few brackets to hold it all together.

I am not the handiest guy around so i was a little nervous doing this job but figured i would take a crack at it ( no pun intended). Took the door off as per instructions from kitchenaid , unscrewed all the outer screws , took off the back of door unscrewed the metal bar holding the glass in ( there are 3 levels of glass) took the 2 good glass sheets out got to the broken glass removed that put the new one in , replaced all the other glass and screws and put door back on, and i felt so proud. Probably saved about 150 dollars by doing it myself. I feel so proud.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...

Washer was on a 13 inch high platform I built for front.load Heat washer and dryer. Removed 3.screws from bottom of front panel and had access to all 4 shocks..front and rear. All shocks were unattachedeither at base or on tub. Easy to install all 3 from front without moving Mach. I figured if 1 or 2 shocks failed the violent.movement broke the other 2. Purrs like.a.kitten now. No bearing.or spring.damage.

Took the old parts out and installed the new parts in , everything that you sent fit perfect!!!!!

Checked fuse with Volmeter, had continuity (acted as a short) not the problem. Disconnected Hot Surface Igniter 2 Position connector to check resistance for a range of 50-300 Ohms of resistance with Voltohm Meter. Meter read open (High Resistance). Removed Igniter by unscrewing 5/16" hex nut on igniter plate assembly and noticed silicon carbide element was cracked in the middle. Ordered a new igniter and noticed assembly was required. Be careful here as igniter element is fragile, also do not touch it with your bare hands. You have to lay down on floor to reinstall igniter assembly and you might want to practice anchoring the defective igniter to gain confidence. Finally with slow movements anchored new igniter assembly and turned on dryer. Watched igniter glow heating gas valve and heating gas flame returned. Dryer fixed for a few hours of study online and cost only $24, plus learned how the gas dryer works.